Better bearings for the bogie wheels

[RX1Jim]

I found what might be much better bearings for the bogie wheels than the stock bearings. McMaster-Carr, a supplier of all sorts of mechanical and electrical parts, have two types of bearings which may last much longer than the standard bearings. I bought 2 bearings of each type in the 6205 bearing size. The first bearing is filled with a polymeric lubricant and is made for use in washing equipment, electroplating equipment, and other applications in which the bearing has to work in a wet and difficult environment. These bearings were about $12 each. The second type of bearing is made out of 400 series stainless steel so it will have excellent resistance to corrosion caused by rust. These bearings are $36 ea., fairly pricey but with an ocasional relube they should last many years. I take incredible care of all of my sleds and find the bogie wheel bearings need changing far too often even though the sled is trailered in an enclosed trailer and stored in my garage. I will put both of these bearing types on the sled and test them out next season. Always looking for ways to improve the fun factor during the incredibly short season.

 

[Crewchief47]

Those seem like interesting possibilities, but......

I stopped changing my boggie wheel bearings years ago. Now I just re-lube them, even when they're loose/noisy. One sled has 12000 KM with origional bearings, one re-lube. Sure, I may be pushing my luck, but I am refusing to change them anymore because they just get loose/noisy by the end of the season anyway. The rear axle gets more attention though.

 

[RX1Jim]

Crew,

I just started trying the relube method myself. On the bearings that are not corroded, I cleaned out all the old grease and junk, relubed them with a water-resistant synthetic grease and reinstalled them. Once I have the rear skid put back together, it will have four of the stainless steel 6205 bearings, 2 of the bearings with the polymer lube and the rest will have been cleaned and relubed. I'll run them for the season and see what results I get. My method of removing the grease seals is to lift them from around the OD of the seal with a dental pick and then pry them out with a small screwdriver. Its hard not to do at least small amount of damage to the seal though.

 

[Bob Miller]

Good Info Jim,
Do they have Stainless bearings available for Jackshaft and Driveshaft?

BM

 

[RX1Jim]

Bob,

I have not looked into the bearings for the driveshaft and jackshaft yet but I will.

Did you get my PM regarding meeting this week?

 

[Bob Miller]

Yes Jim,
Friday evening's are not good for me! Let's try another time 8)
BM

 

[RobX-1]

Doesn't the drive shaft take the same 6205 bearing and the jack shaft a 6206 bearing? When I was replacing these two along with the 04 locking collar, I noticed the Yamaha part number actually referenced these part numbers within their numbers. For example:
93306-20511-00
93306-20592-00
93306-20601-00
At that time, I didn't know any better and purchased the OEMs. Now I'm in the process of replacing the chain case bearings and went to a local Napa store to replace them. One of the 6205 bearings had the seal on one side and uncovered on the other. This one cross-referenced with chain case drive shaft bearing and was going to use it to replace that bearing but I had heard others questioning why Yamaha put the side with the cover inside the chain case and left the uncovered side exposed to the drive shaft. Something about the cover preventing metal shavings from getting inside the bearing. Some guys have even reversed the bearing and have had no problems. Even though I always change my chain case oil every season and never found any shavings, the other 6205 bearing I bought from Napa has the cover on both sides and will be using it for the chain case drive shaft bearing. I have already removed the one cover on the other 6205 bearing and will use it for the chain case cover bearing. As for the jack shaft chain case bearing, it too is a 6206 and is available at Napa.

 

[grader]

the jackshaft bearing clutch side is 6206k and has a tapered bore. as for spending 36 bucks on a bearing in the skid, no thanks. i buy the two dollar bearings, pack them with grease, run them one year and replace. the entire pro no action skin aint worth 36 bucks.

 

[Crewchief47]

Crew,

My method of removing the grease seals is to lift them from around the OD of the seal with a dental pick and then pry them out with a small screwdriver. Its hard not to do at least small amount of damage to the seal though.

That's is word for word how I get them out as well. Got my picks from LeeValleyTools for Christmas one year. Good to have in the old box. I'll let you test them bearings out, maybe consider for the rear axle.

 

[AaronBND]

"the entire pro no action skid aint worth 36 bucks".


That's Funny!!!

 

[Think_Again]

I'm not sure that the stainless bearings are going to be any better. Stainless isn't as strong as the tool steel or bearing steel that is commonly used in quality bearings. We use a lot of bearings in high qualuty long life applications, and have had very good luck with only a few manufacturers.. First off NEVER get anything but a US made, or Japanese made... China, India, Russia... all have VERY low standards on quality. I'd stick to a SKF bearing, or possibly a Nachi. I'd also look at a Closer fitting bearing to give you longer life... something like a C0 fit, tighter means that it will take longer to wear out... most bearings are C3 fit, this is for less rolling resistance, and gives them more error in size when making the mating parts, as the press can allow for higher tolerances... since we are talking about pressing into plastic wheels, I would go with the tighter fit bearing.