Bogey shaft and bolt problem & question during skid rem

[CaptCaper]

I am going to stud my track and I read post were someone said he lowered his skid in the back by removing the rear bolts so he could get at the track better. I started to loosen the Bogey Wheel bolts and the shaft was under alot of pressure. I got one bolt out but the other just spun without loosening that I could see. I put back the other one and both tightened fine. Is the threads for the bolt in the shaft? Also is this the wrong way to drop just the rear?
I've read removal posts and they always say drop the front bolts,limiter strap,etc. So by my removeing the rear first I had tension?
I'd like to drop it enough to be able to drill and rivet extra protection on the protectors.

 

[Grimm]

Yes, the bolts go into the same shaft. Thus, if you remove one bolt while the other bolt is tight, then trying to remove the tight bolt will make the shaft spin, getting you nowhere.

You have to find a happy medium. Try alternating between loosening and tightening these bolts, you'll soon get both out. Using power tools will help, or perhaps having a second person.

 

[yamadog1]

track

loosen your track so it bellies then take your upper wheels off much easier.
use air if possible.

 

[TBay Sledhead]

Loosen the track tensioner, then back out the bolt on one side until it is almost out, put the bolt all the way back in and tighten it. Then do the same to the other bolt. Now loosen both bolts and u should be able to remove them. The reason for them being like this is the locktite. Air tools work good also.

 

[Grimm]

I also heard of another trick: Remove one of the bolts, then thread a nut onto the bolt about halfway or so. Reinstall the bolt with the nut and thread it in and tighten the nut. Remove the bolt on the other side and then loosen the nut and the bolt should easily come out too.

 

[rx1mtn]

Grimm; That little trick works VERY good too. I have done it for years before I had an air compressor at home.

 

[CaptCaper]

So I can take the Bogey wheels and shaft out with out dropping the skid?

I have air tools.But I will try these different methods as well. Thanks. I thought I might have stripped the threading on the shaft.

 

[Grimm]

So I can take the Bogey wheels and shaft out with out dropping the skid?

I have air tools.But I will try these different methods as well. Thanks. I thought I might have stripped the threading on the shaft.

Not the upper idler wheels you can't, but the rear axles ones, yes.

 

[CaptCaper]

So I can take the Bogey wheels and shaft out with out dropping the skid?

I have air tools.But I will try these different methods as well. Thanks. I thought I might have stripped the threading on the shaft.

Not the upper idler wheels you can't, but the rear axles ones, yes.

Your right as I've had my rear ones out to put the 4th Wheel kit in.

So to get the Bogey wheels out I'd have to drop the whole skid right? First the limiter strap then the Ride Adjuster Cable,Front Mounting Bolt, then the 2 rear ones then the Bogey wheel ones (which on my Attak they are anchored to the Tunnel ..

 

[Shootinstick]

Capt

You can take the upper wheels out first on the Attak without taking the skid out. The Attak and Apex LTX has the upper wheels on a separate tunnel mounted shaft, unlike the Apex which has the upper wheels mounted to the skid. In fact, I always put the upper wheels back in last, after putting a removed skid back in. It makes putting the skid in much easier.

You could pull the upper wheels and then drop the rear of the skid for access to the track for studding, but be careful not to let the rear of the suspension drop to far or you will rip the RA cable apart if you haven't unmounted the control from the side of the tunnel. None of this is really necessary though. I studded mine just by raising the rear of the sled up by the rear bumper about 4' off the ground. That gave me plenty of room to get in there and drill the track, cauterize the holes with a hot bolt and then put the studs in.

 

[LJ 452]

Just remember to put a 2X4 or something sacrificial between the inside of the track and your rear wheels. This will allow you to drill with more force and prevent the chance of shaving the rubber from a wheel.

 

[yamadog07]

shootinstick is correct. think guys are confusing attak & apex. upper bogies in back of attak are seperate & attached to tunnel.

 

[CaptCaper]

ShootingStick
How do you get the Bogeys off and one with the pressure from the track? I have the tension nuts backed off all the way but still feel it.
Well I got it studded with Woody's GD's 1.325 162 up the middle. Worked out with lot's of info I found here.
I raised the sled up and took the SnoFlap off ( I put a new one one with SS bolts) That went fine. But I want to drill and put an old Hyfax with one edge cut off onto the protectors for extra protection with the cooler etc. up to about the rear of the Bogeys as someone here posted not to go any further the track will hit. I don't have an angle drill so I wanted to drop the track down some to give my drill clearance.

 

[LJ 452]

ShootingStick
How do you get the Bogeys off and one with the pressure from the track? I have the tension nuts backed off all the way but still feel it.
Well I got it studded with Woody's GD's 1.325 162 up the middle. Worked out with lot's of info I found here.
I raised the sled up and took the SnoFlap off ( I put a new one one with SS bolts) That went fine. But I want to drill and put an old Hyfax with one edge cut off onto the protectors for extra protection with the cooler etc. up to about the rear of the Bogeys as someone here posted not to go any further the track will hit. I don't have an angle drill so I wanted to drop the track down some to give my drill clearance.

Just unbolt them, there will be a little pressure, just press up on the wheel as you remove/reinstall the bolt. When you drop your suspension make sure you unbolt the R.A. or if GT check the wire to make sure you don't rip it out. If it's R.A. I would unbolt it at the tunnel, 3 allens, just use blue (medium strength) locktite when replacing.

 

[Shootinstick]

Yep,
Just as LJ says, push up against track by pushing on shaft. With the sled sitting on the floor, the tension will not be that great. If you still have it hung from the rear bumper, then I can see the tension being pretty tuff.