toolman11k
Veteran
Guys,
I could use a little help, I recently purchased a 2008 Nytro with a Ulmer turbo on it. Took a 250 mile trip this weekend and it ran good for about 230 miles then started to have issues with the engine shutting down at about 5 PSI of boost. Once you let off the throttle all was fine. Started after we took a quick stop for lunch (shut the sled off, sat for about 20 minutes)
I tried rolling into the throttle slowly and quickly, and it really made no difference, would shut down until I let off then re-fire.
I drove it home, decided to switch plugs, installed new plugs (gap at .018) reassembled sled, and same issue.
Pulled the codes, had a pile of them, wrote them down, cleared the codes and tried again, same issue, however now it only has codes 33,34,35. It also seems to be getting worse, now around 1PSI of boost it shuts down.
It has a dynojet powercomander III package on it, does anyone have any ideas on how to troubleshoot short of sending all the components in to dynojet?
Seems to start and run fine, I wonder if I should somehow check voltage to see if I have a issue that is causing electrical components to shut down at a certain voltage?
Update: I checked the voltage at idle and running, no issues at the battery, when I have it on the stand it is hard to duplicate, it still misses, just does not shut down completely since there is no load.
I could use a little help, I recently purchased a 2008 Nytro with a Ulmer turbo on it. Took a 250 mile trip this weekend and it ran good for about 230 miles then started to have issues with the engine shutting down at about 5 PSI of boost. Once you let off the throttle all was fine. Started after we took a quick stop for lunch (shut the sled off, sat for about 20 minutes)
I tried rolling into the throttle slowly and quickly, and it really made no difference, would shut down until I let off then re-fire.
I drove it home, decided to switch plugs, installed new plugs (gap at .018) reassembled sled, and same issue.
Pulled the codes, had a pile of them, wrote them down, cleared the codes and tried again, same issue, however now it only has codes 33,34,35. It also seems to be getting worse, now around 1PSI of boost it shuts down.
It has a dynojet powercomander III package on it, does anyone have any ideas on how to troubleshoot short of sending all the components in to dynojet?
Seems to start and run fine, I wonder if I should somehow check voltage to see if I have a issue that is causing electrical components to shut down at a certain voltage?
Update: I checked the voltage at idle and running, no issues at the battery, when I have it on the stand it is hard to duplicate, it still misses, just does not shut down completely since there is no load.
peppahillcustom
Extreme
Does your sled have a ignition module? What stage ulmer turbo? Those are coil codes. Could be bad ground , rubbed trough wire or possibly moisture in a connector. If you find your controller is bad I have a barely used pc3 setup for boost that I would be willing to let go cheap. I would start by leaving your sled overnight in a heated space and see if it goes away. I would lean towards moisture or a rubbed through wire where it ran fine for 230 miles
toolman11k
Veteran
It does have a ignition module, I bypassed it and went back to stock and still no improvement.
I always keep it in my heated garage, except when we are out sledding, the issues came on day 2 at -20 deg. 3 days warm and toasty and still a issue.
I am leaning towards wiring issues as well, I checked the TPS sweep on the gauge and it was fine. I want to see if I can find a wiring diagram and see what feeds the coil wires, I wonder if there are stupid corrosion issues with the main power wire that feeds everything, i had a similar issue a few years ago on a 08 APEX. They use that shitty cheap connector to supply power to the fuel pump, etc. I am going to look there first.
Also it seems like someone just flips a switch and shuts down the spark, weird thing is if I hold it wide open, as soon as the RPM drops back down it will kick back in until the same thing happens again, so i do not suspect the TORS being the cause.
Which PC3 setup do you have, I could really use a new display and cable, mine have a connector issue at the LCD-100 display.
I always keep it in my heated garage, except when we are out sledding, the issues came on day 2 at -20 deg. 3 days warm and toasty and still a issue.
I am leaning towards wiring issues as well, I checked the TPS sweep on the gauge and it was fine. I want to see if I can find a wiring diagram and see what feeds the coil wires, I wonder if there are stupid corrosion issues with the main power wire that feeds everything, i had a similar issue a few years ago on a 08 APEX. They use that shitty cheap connector to supply power to the fuel pump, etc. I am going to look there first.
Also it seems like someone just flips a switch and shuts down the spark, weird thing is if I hold it wide open, as soon as the RPM drops back down it will kick back in until the same thing happens again, so i do not suspect the TORS being the cause.
Which PC3 setup do you have, I could really use a new display and cable, mine have a connector issue at the LCD-100 display.
Northernboy
Pro
Check the voltage on the Red/white wire to each coil to battery negative it should be the same as the battery voltage. The key has to be on for this but not running.
sheetwright
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Did you call Allen ulmer, being he maybe set it up? Might be a good direction
toolman11k
Veteran
I have talked to him a couple of times, great guy, just a little busy this time of year, thought maybe some other input would help as well.
I thought I had it pinned down this morning with that stupid power distribution block and corrosion, i replaced all the ends / cleaned it all up, still same issue.
Also notice the cooling fan is not coming on, and it looks like the same power supply wire for the ignition and the fan according to the wiring diagram. I was really hoping the power distribution block was the culprit.
Has anyone checked to voltage drop across the power distribution block?
I have 12.3V on the input side and 11.9V on the output side (that feeds the ignition and the fan) .4V drop seems like a lot for 1 contact
I wonder if I have internal issues with the power distribution block / starter relay
I thought I had it pinned down this morning with that stupid power distribution block and corrosion, i replaced all the ends / cleaned it all up, still same issue.
Also notice the cooling fan is not coming on, and it looks like the same power supply wire for the ignition and the fan according to the wiring diagram. I was really hoping the power distribution block was the culprit.
Has anyone checked to voltage drop across the power distribution block?
I have 12.3V on the input side and 11.9V on the output side (that feeds the ignition and the fan) .4V drop seems like a lot for 1 contact
I wonder if I have internal issues with the power distribution block / starter relay
mpi xtx
Extreme
Whats your Air-Fuel ratio at when it starts to die?
toolman11k
Veteran
Best I can tell around 12.0
I am having issues with the data logger connector, stupid thing was not designed to be on a snowmobile. (separate issue from the cooling fan / ignition though)
I should also add, it does die slowly, it is like someone turned off the ignition switch, it is just off, then fires back up when the RPM's come down.
It seems to me like it is a electrical issue, under high load.
I am having issues with the data logger connector, stupid thing was not designed to be on a snowmobile. (separate issue from the cooling fan / ignition though)
I should also add, it does die slowly, it is like someone turned off the ignition switch, it is just off, then fires back up when the RPM's come down.
It seems to me like it is a electrical issue, under high load.
Northernboy
Pro
You should have no voltage drop across if there is little load. If you have 0.4v with it not running them once you put some load on these connections it will be more of a drop.
The power distribution block you are refering to, is it the fuse block on the right hand side down by the reverse lever? Or the connections above the starter relay?
I have seen alot of corrosion on the connections above the starter relay. I seal these up real good.
Check also the splice connectors, they look like little black plugs on the wiring harness.
The power distribution block you are refering to, is it the fuse block on the right hand side down by the reverse lever? Or the connections above the starter relay?
I have seen alot of corrosion on the connections above the starter relay. I seal these up real good.
Check also the splice connectors, they look like little black plugs on the wiring harness.
toolman11k
Veteran
The voltage drop is on the wires above the starter solenoid, I have noticed the same corrosion issues you talk about, I actually replaced all 3 of the wire ends and cleaned up the spade terminals and dielectric greased up the whole thing.
I am guessing there is more then a starter relay in that box since it has 3 wires coming in on the top, 2 of which do not have power until you turn on the ignition, and I agree with you, .4V seems like a ton of drop without the sled running. I checked on the input of the solenoid, 12.3V and the 10 amp fuse has 12.3V on both sides. the red/white wire and blue/white wire only have 11.88V
I circled the wire
Guess I should go get a new starter solenoid.
I am guessing there is more then a starter relay in that box since it has 3 wires coming in on the top, 2 of which do not have power until you turn on the ignition, and I agree with you, .4V seems like a ton of drop without the sled running. I checked on the input of the solenoid, 12.3V and the 10 amp fuse has 12.3V on both sides. the red/white wire and blue/white wire only have 11.88V
I circled the wire
Guess I should go get a new starter solenoid.
Northernboy
Pro
Check your fuse box on the right hand side by the reverse lever. I bet your problem is there or the main connection on the ECU. The fan and ECU is supplied from there. Check voltage on Red/Yellow wire.
toolman11k
Veteran
No corrosion, however did find a blown fuse for the cooling fan, replaced it. Checked all the other fuses and voltages / all OK
With sled running, I have 13.5V into that starter relay block, and only 13.0V on the red/white wire. I would have to think a internal issue on that power block / starter relay.
With sled running, I have 13.5V into that starter relay block, and only 13.0V on the red/white wire. I would have to think a internal issue on that power block / starter relay.
Northernboy
Pro
I am pretty sure the Red/White wire gets power from the ECU and goes to the starter solenoid. Have you checked the voltage at the coils on the Red/White wire?
toolman11k
Veteran
I will as a next step, it is just a bitch to get to since the sled is a turbo, the turbo inter cooler tube goes right above the first coil, and makes it a PITA to disconnect. I would need to remove the seat and tank etc again. I am going to run to the dealer grab a new solenoid and see what my voltage readings are. It would also make sense that if the Fan and Ignition feed off the same power wire (before fuse block) that if I am having a voltage drop issue, the amperage naturally would increase, possible explanation for the blown fan fuse.
toolman11k
Veteran
New solenoid, still have a voltage drop, still have ignition issues, grrrr.
Cooling fan works now, however it is noisy
Cooling fan works now, however it is noisy
