With journal bearing tolerances of .0001 - .0025" on the crank I wouldn't be doing to many WOT runs for the first few tanks (ask your Yamaha dealer what they had to do to the R1 bikes before they could put them in customer's hands). I think the manual offers a pretty good protocol for breaking in the motor. Would be curious to hear what Freddie has to say on the topic though...
DID READ THE MANUAL YES...CAN'T REMEMBER EXACTLY BUT WORDS TO THE EFFECT OF AVOIDING PROLONGED OPERATION OVER CERTAIN RPMS...AND THAT'S WHAT I DID...CERTAINLY THERE WERE TIMES THE RPM WENT ABOVE 6,000 DURING THE FIRST 100 MILES IT WOULD BE DIFFICULT NOT TO...THE MANUAL ALSO SAYS THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT PERIOD IN THE LIFE OF THE ENGINE AND NOT TO PUT AN EXCESSIVE LOAD ON IT FOR THE FIRST 300 MILES...I DID MY BEST TO FOLLOW WHAT THE MANUAL SAYS...ASSUMED YAMAHA KNOWS WHAT THEY ARE TALKING ABOUT...DON'T GET ME WRONG I HAVE NO IDEA IF THIS IS THE BEST BREAK IN JUST DID WHAT THE MANUAL SAYS AND IT SEEMED TO WORK FOR ME...THIS SUBJECT HAS BEEN BEAT TO DEATH FROM "RIDE IT LIKE ITS STOLEN" TO FOLLOWING THE MANUAL...I EVEN REMEMBER POST SURVEYING BREAK IN PROCEDURE COMPAIRED TO OIL CONSUMPTION...I BELIEVE THERE DIDN'T SEEM TO BE ANY RIME OR REASON TO THE OIL CONSUMPTION...SOME THAT BROKE IT IN BY THE MANUEL HAD EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION AND SO DID OTHERS THAT BROKE IT IN HARD...AGAIN NOT TELLING PEOPLE HOW TO BREAK IN THEIR MACHINES JUST SAYING HOW I DID MINE...
MR.HAPPY
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Everyone I talked to about oil burning last winter in the bars & other pit stops had ECP filters if they were burning oil! Not all people with ECP burnt
oil but, the people that were burning did have them! One guy out of two or three Hauck K&Ns guys burnt oil too!
I ASKED TONS OF PEOPLE!
BR
oil but, the people that were burning did have them! One guy out of two or three Hauck K&Ns guys burnt oil too!
I ASKED TONS OF PEOPLE!
BR
Everyone we knew that was burning oil stopped when they used Seafoam on a regular basis.
We also felt that clutching with a maintance RPM above 10,200 was a major factor.
Dave
We also felt that clutching with a maintance RPM above 10,200 was a major factor.
Dave
markgyver
Extreme
Yamaha addressed this issue in the 2005 technical update book.I outlined it in the engines forum.i am talking about oil usage.
SUPERTUNER
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The main reason for careful break in is due to the plain bearings on the crank mains and the conrods. Your rings are seated in only a few hundred miles so the theory of oil consumption caused by the use of anyones air filters is thrown out the window. Run the engine easy for 50 - 100 miles or so and slowly begin letting the RPM's get up to peak numbers but for short distances only. Avoid getting on a long trail or lake and holding the throttle at a "cruise control" type of setting. Fluctuating the RPM's is best for all parts of the engine. Your conrod bearings and main crank bearings are good to go after about 200 miles to be safe.
I like to break new engines in on Kendall GT1 20W50 and after a couple hundred miles go directly to a real good full synthetic oil like Torco 5W30 MPZ, Redline 5W30 or Mobil1 5W30 car oil...not the Mobil motorcycle oil.
I like to break new engines in on Kendall GT1 20W50 and after a couple hundred miles go directly to a real good full synthetic oil like Torco 5W30 MPZ, Redline 5W30 or Mobil1 5W30 car oil...not the Mobil motorcycle oil.
impalapower
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I'm never trading mine in. Don't have to worry about break-in.
Wilson
Expert
I will be picking up my 05 RS Venture next week . Should I be doing the
warm it up and then let it cool off thhing or should I just leave it alone
untill the snow flies and I can ride it . I don't really beleive in any special
break in just don't abuse it the first few hundred miles . I am not that much of a hard rider anny way .Can't really see me at 45mph for 300 miles though .
warm it up and then let it cool off thhing or should I just leave it alone
untill the snow flies and I can ride it . I don't really beleive in any special
break in just don't abuse it the first few hundred miles . I am not that much of a hard rider anny way .Can't really see me at 45mph for 300 miles though .
I would wait till the snow fly's. Then you can do a proper break in with periodic WOT. I broke mine in hard without any ill effects just dont abuse it.
Convert
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To each his own 
I went by the book which includes short bursts at WOT best bet is to find a small 100 acre lake somewhere for the first 20 miles that way you can pin it for short bursts 80 - 90 mph but are forced to backoff before you run out of lake, takes all of 10 seconds to go from one end to the other. I spent my first day riding doing just that and took care of the first 100 mile phase of breakin. Had 300 miles on her before I rode with any of my buddies because i knew i would'nt be able to hold back once we hit the trail together. I now have about 3300 miles on it and it DOES NOT burn any oil whatsoever Now i gotta start the whole process over again 
Wilson I would wait for snow the motor really needs a load on it to break in properly running it in your garage will do more harm than good
I went by the book which includes short bursts at WOT best bet is to find a small 100 acre lake somewhere for the first 20 miles that way you can pin it for short bursts 80 - 90 mph but are forced to backoff before you run out of lake, takes all of 10 seconds to go from one end to the other. I spent my first day riding doing just that and took care of the first 100 mile phase of breakin. Had 300 miles on her before I rode with any of my buddies because i knew i would'nt be able to hold back once we hit the trail together. I now have about 3300 miles on it and it DOES NOT burn any oil whatsoever Now i gotta start the whole process over again Wilson I would wait for snow the motor really needs a load on it to break in properly running it in your garage will do more harm than good
JDKRXW
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SUPERTUNER said:
Why the car oil and not the motorcycle oil????
....... funny you should mention this because I was in Costco today and they had Castrol synthetic 5W50 car oil on sale and I was thinking about buying a case for my sled.
LazyBastard
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Isn't motorcycle oil usually very heavy? Made for WARM temperatures, so its thick and gooey and hard to start in the cold.
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SUPERTUNER said:
Excellent post as always, many of us truly appreciate your wisdom and dedication.
Regarding the "break-in" oil, our new machines are delivered with a sump full of 0W30. Would a good method be to drop that oil, use a different oil for the break-in period, then install our favorite flavor of "operating" oil?
Not trying to trip you up as sub-zero temps with a sump full of 20W50 could have some interesting starting implications. Just wondering about getting a good break-in with the original 0W30 oil.
FWIW, I used a similar method as Convert on my '03 with similar results and intend to do it again.
Can't wait!
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JDKRXW said:
Because the car oil has a chemical in it called Poly afolefin. It is present in certain several oils as an additive package. By and large all crude oils are the same when it comes out of the ground. (insert Jedd Clampett hooting here) The difference from one manufacturer to another is the additive packages put in in the laboratories at the different companies. I don't know if Castrol has PAO in it or not. I have some very extensive testing on lots of oils as we are always looking for the HP edge. We are also looking to save the plain babbit style bearings in our engines. I have used an real special and very expensive oil before from a company called "Alisyn". They are the same company that provides NASA with the lubricants for the space shuttle...literally! They manufacture what they call a "less than zero" weight oil. This oil absolutely, positively produces more power than anything I have tested. You pour it out and it look like a thin version of cooking oil!
Regarding the stock oil...I am sure it is good for break in. I rebuild and build racing engines all day long so I thought mentioning the Kendall would be a good idea. With regard to the dry sump style lubricating system on the RX1, don't confuse this with an engine like a motorcycle where the cases actually hold the oil. For cold weather start up, it takes a few seconds for oil to start pumping into the remote areas of the engine thereby making a 20w50 fine for cold start ups. By the time the oil gets to anywhere that it will cause start up problems by dragging the starter down, the engine would be running and warming up.
The company "Maxima" makes some real good lubricants too. The president of Maxima... Dick Lecien is a smart man. I have attended many seminars given by him.
SUPERTUNER
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Another quick thing that we did over the years...
When we rebuilt to top end of a motocross engine, snowmobile or anything with a roller style bearing on the crank, we used to simply take an electric drill and turn the engine over with it while spraying electrical or non-chlorinated brake cleaner into the engine to assist seating the rings. Doing this for 4 - 5 minutes would begin the ring seating process and in only a few short minutes of riding time, the rings would be perfectly seated. This was with cast iron liners as well as plated cylinder walls. I also have learned as a proprietary process for plating cylinder walls with a special blend of chemicals that offeres greater "lubricity". I did test a Hayabusa engine with this process and it did make more power! If my memory serves me correctly, it was like 2 HP gain throughout the rev range.
When we rebuilt to top end of a motocross engine, snowmobile or anything with a roller style bearing on the crank, we used to simply take an electric drill and turn the engine over with it while spraying electrical or non-chlorinated brake cleaner into the engine to assist seating the rings. Doing this for 4 - 5 minutes would begin the ring seating process and in only a few short minutes of riding time, the rings would be perfectly seated. This was with cast iron liners as well as plated cylinder walls. I also have learned as a proprietary process for plating cylinder walls with a special blend of chemicals that offeres greater "lubricity". I did test a Hayabusa engine with this process and it did make more power! If my memory serves me correctly, it was like 2 HP gain throughout the rev range.
