Buying a used 2007 newer phazer

[viper strike]

Hello phazer Fans.
I've been thinking about getting a used phazer for my wife. 2007 or newer.
We rented one last year for a few days. we took the time to set the suspension to her weight, right there at the rental shop. She loved it! She has only rode the old style hay bales in the past. So it was quite an upgrade from the last sled she rode. I also was forced to rent one for a day while my (she don't doo) was throwing codes, and it was in limp mode. That little phazer had over 13000 miles and was held to the bars all day! It never missed a beat. So I'm sold on the engine's.
But while jumping it, the drive train Gears, chain, track, cogs and drivers seamed very loud when landing with the throttle open just a touch. I think i actually heard the gears grinding once or twice. I thought maybe it was just the extra reverse gear set up in the chain case. Or the chain was super loose? Same with the track? I didn't really investigate it like it was my own.
I'd like to get one for her. so i can also ditch bang a cheaper sled instead of my viper and still have a decent ride.
But I'm kinda on the fence. Do they sleds have issues that are reoccurring to most phazer owners? Any major designs flaws or failures that are reoccurring to phazer owners. Any major problems?
How are they to work on once the plastics are off? what are some things to look for or watch out for?
besides the obvious wear and tear item's. any input would be appreciated. only looking for sled input on the 2007 or newer. Thanks TY junkies

 

[DigitalFusion]

I cant speak to the drivetrain noises, but I can point out that the phazer's reverse isn't actually inside the chaincase. Its on the jackshaft inside a 'transmission' (in which all the gears are constantly in motion) with a solenoid on top. Its a funky design, which is fitting for the funky ascetics of the phazer. There isnt an auto-adjuster for the chain, so if its not checked periodically it can get loose. Unlike your Viper, it does not use extroverts, so track ratcheting can occur if the tension isnt set right.

Like any sled, they have their quirks. Sloppy steering is common due to wear in the steering stem and the bushings in the steering stem in the front subframe. The 07's being a first year sled had a whole slew of updates, so an 08+ or at the very least an 07 with the VIN ran at your dealership to see if the updates were done would be best. You didnt mention what year Phazer your wife tried, but some of the earlier models had open holes in the tunnel for 'cooling' which ice up, and the 07's didnt have a radiator fan. They did however have a slightly larger fuel tank (8.1 vs 7.0 gals). Starting in 08 they had an update to the ECU for cold start issues. The connection to the starter can be an issue as well, but its been years since I have dealt with that so I cannot recall the problem/fix. The W arm in the suspension was prone to cracking, and some of them have non-serviceable/non-rebuildable shocks.

The phazer is actually really easy to work on for common things. You dont even have to pull the chaincase to pull the drive shaft, the whole front sub-frame (skis, shocks, arms and all) comes off with 11 bolts, the entire tunnel can be removed with 4 bolts and 5 rivets (after the skid is removed), the headlight connection is funky and is prone to cracking the tabs off, but once that is removed all the plastics come off quickly. Oil changes are a PITA though.

I have a Viper as well as a Phazer (im on my 3rd phazer actually) and if I was headed out ditch banging I would choose the Phazer over the Viper every day of the week. Sure, it doesnt have the power you're used to, but damn if it isnt a fun and responsive little machine.

 

[maim]

x2 on what digitalfusion said. check the a arm mounts for bolts coming loose and egging the holes out and keep an eye on the front suspension for bolts loosening up on the ball joints.

all the common items are covered here as this is where i learned all about my phazer as the one i bought was not well taken care of but i am getting it whipped into shape while turning it into an xtx.

 

[kschitoskey]

We're on our fourth season on an MTX. Agree with above posts - funky design, but a lot of fun. Lots of (unwarranted) negative press about access to the engine - but you can pull the front sub-frame off in about 20'. Look closely at the front suspension for symmetry - A-arms are readily available; check the bolt holes for A-arms carefully, as they tend to egg out when you take out an A-arm. Steering kit / spindle bushing from UP Bushman is a necessity to tighten up the front steering. When you get it, I'd recommend doing the following:

1. Pull off all of the plastics; remove seat / fuel tank and replace the exhaust donuts (cheap insurance). Replace plugs, ensure coolant hard pipe is not contacting the valve cover lower right (chaincase side) - don't ask how I know this.
2. Pull off the secondary clutch and repack bearing; same with the driveshaft bearing.
3. Change out chaincase oil, check tension, flush the coolant (frequently neglected item) and replace brake fluid. 4strokesolutions makes a rollover kit which has literally saved my engine several times.
4. Pull front subframe off, change oil (clean oil tank screen) and closely inspect steering. Now is the time to put in the UP bushman kits.
5. Inspect carefully the skid; if in doubt, pull it. Much easier to do a thorough inspection when it's on the bench. Last year I found all of my idlers were trashed (6!), which is no surprise given how much time they spend with snow on them. Closely inspect the W-arm for cracks as well; hyfax wear is common on these as Yamaha recommendations for track tension is really tight. I run mine looser than factory for that reason.

You've found the right site for sure. Amazing group of folks on here.

 

[equillibrium88]

Phazer's have a lot of issues with the secondary shaft/reverse gearbox which as someone already pointed out in not part of the chaincase but is mounted behind it under the exhaust manifold. It was explained to me that the servo motors like to lose it's holding power over time preventing the dog gear from engaging the gear slots as deeply as it once did. This has happened to me twice now and its expensive to replace the gearbox components. The signs leading to this is a flashing drive light, having to rock the sled more and more to get it into reverse. Sometimes pushing the button does nothing but I have since learned that idle rpm may be too high to engage.

From my experience, the Phazer is a pain to work on in comparison to other sleds and requires a pile of disassembly to do pretty much anything other then basic stuff. There are some nice tutorials on here for unclipping the front end to get easy access to the oil filter and other features. The sled rides like a dirtbike on the snow and I find the high Center of gravity makes it tippy in the corners with some inside ski lift. The stock skiis suck and the stock GT suspension sucks for anyone heavier then 180lbs. The front link arm of the rear skid is prone to breakage and the same with the pivot link that couples the front and rear dampers. Its still a fun sled inspite of these flaws, there really is nothing else like it on the market now and the engine is top notch as far as realibility is concerned.