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Carving the Nytro

I find the nytro really fights carving. Kinda strange balance point on the sled because once the momentum starts going over it doesnt wanna stop. I would say the high center of gravity is the issue, also I found the excessively wide/low clearance running boards to be a pain in the deep snow.
 

I really don't see the issues involved with carving on the Nytro. Here is an example of what I mean. There are a couple of other vids under the same user name that reinforce the point....
 
the Nytro carves insanely well...I am guessing most of you have sway bars still attached...that is a device that is designed to fight carving...especially how this one is designed on teh sled...

as to the question on limiter strap...you can play with it, but your going to trench more if you have less ski pressure....if your wanting to carve in pow, you have to have a balanced sled....

but what do Psycho and I know, we just play in this stuff all the time :) we got two feet more for tomorrows ride :dance:
 
i love carving and sidehilling on my nytro, i find it harder with the turbo since you can't give it as much gas or you get going too fast sometimes. 162"x15" CE, stock skis, and no sway bar.
 
Thanks to everyone for ideas :)

mtdream and motopsycho, i'm happy you both can carve so amazingly on your long track nytros, but the question wasn't how great can you carve your long track nytro, but if you have ideas on comparing the short track nytro and long track ntyro carving tendencies, can you give me advice?

Have Fun,
Will
 
sedz said:
I find the nytro really fights carving. Kinda strange balance point on the sled because once the momentum starts going over it doesnt wanna stop. I would say the high center of gravity is the issue, also I found the excessively wide/low clearance running boards to be a pain in the deep snow.

Alright, alright...

The incessent tendency to tip is not lost on me. The tipping really isn't a product of a high center of gravity. As a matter of fact, the Nytro has a fairly low center of gravity.

I have found that it is mostly caused by the front suspension.

Get on your sled on a concrete surface. Then rock the sled from side to side as if you were trying to pull it over. Note how much the "inner" shock compresses before the outer ski leaves the floor.

This happens in the deep snow too. The problem is that you as you continue to pull it over further and further, the shock compresses with the ski causing minimal "cutting" or "dropping" through the snow. As we all know, a shock only comresses so far - so when the shock finally reaches full compression, it the allows the entire weight on the front end to finally push the ski deeply into the snow (there is your tip point). Once all of these factors culminate, it is too late - yer past the balance point. In addition, you are somewhat correct on the running boards - they have a tendancy to touch the snow at about the same time, unloading the track, and compounding the problem.

If you have the good shocks on your shorty, PRE-LOAD them very heavy. (the stock MTX shocks don't have enough adjustment to do this)

This will create a HUGE change in stability while carving - It will also cause a less than desireable trail ride (harsh)

Ya can't have it both ways - pick yer poison and experiment. With the concrete test, try to get a maximum 1-1/2" of compression before the ski lift on the other side.

I have fox floats up front. I started at 80 psi and experimented. They seemed to work best about 120 psi.

Moto
 
acesfan05 said:
I ride a short track Nytro with 1.75" Backcountry track on it and 7" Powederhound skis. I find it difficult to carve. I ride trails but lotsa off trail in the deep powder. If anyone here has considerable riding time on a short track and long track Nytro, how would you compare the 2 for carving in say 2 feet of poweder? I realize the long track should be easier to carve for anyone, but still wonder what you all think.

Thanks,
Will
I do not have much time on the XTX or the MTX, but after todays ride I know one thing for sure - when going off trail, a RTX with 1.75" Back Country track will ride circles around a XTX with the standard 1.25" Ripsaw track. With the Ripsaw, all kinds of throttle related maneuvers becomes virtually non-noticeable. There is just no forward drive! Obviously, low lug height and poor lug design can not be compensated with more track length...
Regarding carving, two good advices have already been mentioned - get rid of the sway bar and start practicing with a low body position...
 
The past week I got to ride my 2009 RTX SE in deep snow and found carving easier than the 2008 fx nytro std I had last year. Most of that was probally the running boards being higher and more narrow than last years model. Also i am using slydog powderhounds and a 1.5" intense track on my RTX SE vs. stock track and skis on my 2008 nytro. I was going to buy a XTX but went for the better shock package, so far I have no regrets, but if I decide I need more I will probally extend to 136". so far I am happy.

Also I have found that I can carve a lot better on the Nytro when I am seated or just off the seat Vs. standing. Which is the complete opposite to what I do on my other sled(2004 polaris Edge 700 136"). ;)!
 


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