Irv
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Anyone tried rubber O rings or nylon washers in an attempt to quiet or eliminate the clutch rattle noise in their Vectors?
I plan on trying something, just don't know if the Nylon or the rubber is best?
Good posts here and I am assuming the results should be similar or the same?
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=100396
I plan on trying something, just don't know if the Nylon or the rubber is best?
Good posts here and I am assuming the results should be similar or the same?
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=100396
TRUE BLUE SINCE 1980
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yes.... I am working on this also. Bought 6 of both of these items. I am going to show this to My Dealer's, mecanic to see what he thinks. I cant see any reason why it whould cause any problems. The washers could be changed easily at anytime . They were like 12 cents a piece.
It seems that there should be one or two more threads on those bolts
I am sure it only rattles at idle , but if it can be fixed for a buck and a half
(same for Canadian now) Why not!
It seems that there should be one or two more threads on those bolts
I am sure it only rattles at idle , but if it can be fixed for a buck and a half
(same for Canadian now) Why not!
Irv
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TRUE BLUE SINCE 1980 said:yes.... I am working on this also. Bought 6 of both of these items. I am going to show this to My Dealer's, mecanic to see what th thinks. I cant see any reason why it whould cause any problems. The washers could be changed easily at anytime . They were like 12 cents a piece.
It seems that there should be one or two threads on threds on those bolts
I am sure it only rattles at idle , but if it can be fixed for a buck and a half
(same for Canadian now) Why not!
I agree and can't figure out why but someone in the link I posted said Yamaha use to use little set screws to keep them from rattling but did away with that probably to save money.
The only problem is they left the bolts a touch too long and left us with the embarrassing rattle!
I hope the washers/O rings do the trick


kviper
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This was done a few years back! It works but don't last real long. Carful shiming lasted the longest, just don't get them to tight.
Irv
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kviper said:This was done a few years back! It works but don't last real long. Carful shiming lasted the longest, just don't get them to tight.
What did you use Kviper?
Sorenson metioned he used neoprene washers and they are still holding up.
He mentioned there is still some noise but not as bad as it use to be.
I plan on using some Nylon washers (#8's as mentioned in that link) or some rubber O rings and see what happens?
If the noise is cut in half, I will be happy and if they stay in place and don't disinegrate then I will be even happier!


yamadoo
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Some of the pics show the shims on only one side.
How is that going to work? What torque do we re tighten these too?
I am wanting to do this to cut down the clutch rattle, but don't want to over tighten and turn an annoyance into an expensive repair.
How is that going to work? What torque do we re tighten these too?
I am wanting to do this to cut down the clutch rattle, but don't want to over tighten and turn an annoyance into an expensive repair.
Irv
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yamadoo said:Some of the pics show the shims on only one side.
How is that going to work? What torque do we re tighten these too?
I am wanting to do this to cut down the clutch rattle, but don't want to over tighten and turn an annoyance into an expensive repair.
Tom mentions the torque in this post/vid I believe but in all honesty I didn't follow that when I installed my clutch kit, I just tightened them up good as I know they won't come loose anyways, plus there is a shoulder to prevent you overtightening them.(That is the reason they rattle

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=111572
I haven't gotten around to doing mine yet, but hope to soon and I will be doing both sides, not just one!
JROCK
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I tried this on the bolts for the rollers and it did not change a thing!
You guys can play all you want....
Use the search function or keep up with your noise... not mine
Use the search function or keep up with your noise... not mine
VectorLTX2012
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Irv said:Anyone tried rubber O rings or nylon washers in an attempt to quiet or eliminate the clutch rattle noise in their Vectors?
I plan on trying something, just don't know if the Nylon or the rubber is best?
Good posts here and I am assuming the results should be similar or the same?
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=100396
Hi Irv,
When you start to get some ride time on our sled mod I hope will post an update for the rest of us.
Thanks
Irv
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I will for sure!VectorLTX2012 said:Irv said:Anyone tried rubber O rings or nylon washers in an attempt to quiet or eliminate the clutch rattle noise in their Vectors?
I plan on trying something, just don't know if the Nylon or the rubber is best?
Good posts here and I am assuming the results should be similar or the same?
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=100396
Hi Irv,
When you start to get some ride time on our sled mod I hope will post an update for the rest of us.
Thanks

(also, just added the link above with Tom's video, forgot to do it!

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=111572
yam429
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This remedy did not work on my wifes 08 Vector LTX. I tried o rings with nylon washer as a keeper. The rattle is coming from somewhere else on her sled. Maybe this works on other models but then again I didn't think the rattle was happening on other models. I thought the Vectors were the only ones.
Muskoka Man
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I have tried everything on my venture for the rattle , nothing is a permanent fix it seems , my sled doesnt sit and idle a lot , after 20,000 ks i dont really care about it anymore , i just ride the puppy 

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... ht=#940682
The shim kit is too thick for the first job. Should it fit in then yo have keep up with the noise for a long time. See the above link for what i am talking about. I do this during as pre-season PM procedures. I will skip it this year since i have not quite done 5K last winter and i can't ear a thing yet. Should you do this, do not intermix the shoes.. keep 'em at their existing place. Reason is, each slides/towers have their own shape at microscopic level so to speak and a given button will wear according to it's placement. Should you interchange with another one, it may push more from the sides or the middle and may wear quite faster so to finally sit uniformly tight. You don't want this. ..and this is why i like to reuse the old ones over new, as long there is no cracks and look in shape of course.
The forces in presence are quite considerable, spring... rotating weight... don't feel the mouveable can get stuck because it's too tight, your thumbs (to push it in) means nothing.
Downside is that you have to separate the primary, a thing that is nothing to me anymore using my home built tool back in 2006. This tool has also serve a friend's RX1 a couple of times.
The shim kit is too thick for the first job. Should it fit in then yo have keep up with the noise for a long time. See the above link for what i am talking about. I do this during as pre-season PM procedures. I will skip it this year since i have not quite done 5K last winter and i can't ear a thing yet. Should you do this, do not intermix the shoes.. keep 'em at their existing place. Reason is, each slides/towers have their own shape at microscopic level so to speak and a given button will wear according to it's placement. Should you interchange with another one, it may push more from the sides or the middle and may wear quite faster so to finally sit uniformly tight. You don't want this. ..and this is why i like to reuse the old ones over new, as long there is no cracks and look in shape of course.
The forces in presence are quite considerable, spring... rotating weight... don't feel the mouveable can get stuck because it's too tight, your thumbs (to push it in) means nothing.

Downside is that you have to separate the primary, a thing that is nothing to me anymore using my home built tool back in 2006. This tool has also serve a friend's RX1 a couple of times.


darv
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They also make shims so that you can get the shoes with the right tolerance right if you guys what here is part # 8BW-17654-20-00 but most important thing to remember is where ever you put one you need to do the same on the other shoes/sliders to take play out.
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