Clutching for Rx1???

[tundra]

BlgsRX-1mtn, im not agree with you, straight 45 helix upshift quicker than a shallower angle helix, but tend to load the motor more. I think its preferable to get a multi-angle helix with a good Steep helix for holeshot, and a shallower angle to maintain more easily the motor in its powerBand.

But without to much difference between both to not kill the upshift. Lower angle seem to give a better backshift than Steep angle.

Its my point of view. And if Stiffler goes with the 89L setup, is sled will shift to quickly with the straight 45 and will kill is acceleration, since the motor will not maintain the proper RPM on long pull.

Jeff

 

[Frostbite]

Jonnyrocket, Thank You!

I'm a bit shocked to read your comments, especially from a turbo guy but, I certainly appreciate them.

These guys are free to do whatever they would like with their clutching.

Yes Jonny you and I spent a lot of time testing clutch setups and I remember you going by me on the top end with the stock weights when I had the Daltons or the 8DN-00 weights in my sled. The RX-1 engine wanted more tip weight. The stock weigths have plenty of tip weight but the curvature of the weights weren't conducive to an impressive bottom end.

J, remind me to throw in the heavily loaded 8DN-00 weights next time we go boondocking.

Frosty

 

[Jonny Rocket]

Will do.
J.

 

[..Stiffler..]

thx for the replies...

and with my rpm being where it is on engagement and top rpm....do you think that stock clutching would run like this?

Engagment 3800
11,200 top out...

and when I was doing 11,200 I was on a lake with about 2' drifts on it and I was jumping over them and didnt notice a loss of rpm...stayed right around 11,200 maybe went to 11,000.....(but i could have let off the gas)

 

[Frostbite]

Are you sure you want to have your RPMs that high?

Is you hit a patch of ice, go over a jump or anyhting else that unloads the track for a second you'll instantly hit the rev limiter.

Peak H.P. is at 10,250 with the stock airbox and 10,500- 10,700 with the ECP kit.

I run mine at 10,700 now because it leaves a comfortable gap between this RPM and the rev limiter.

Frosty

 

[..Stiffler..]

No thats just it....I dont want to have it that high....

Or I guess it doesnt really matter...if its bad to have it that high then no I dont....

right now top speed that I have hit in about 6" of snow is 162KM/H. So just over 100mph.

I dont really need a high top speed like that....I mean thats ok...what I want is to have more low and mid range....

almost like changing the small sprocket on a street bike, you add more torque which gives you want better low end but less top end...

Thats what I want from my sled.

I basically want to be able to wheelie my sled....or close...lol...(not that Im goin to do it)

 

[AaronBND]

Gear it down to around 2.10-2.25

 

[Frostbite]

You either need more tip weight on your clutch weights or the easiest way to fix the issue is to go to a lower total force primary spring.

I can't remember what primary spring you are using but I'd find one that is roughly 10 to 20 less on the total force rating of the primary spring you currently have installed right now (depanding on where you'd like your shift speed / top RPM).

Frosty

 

[..Stiffler..]

Im going for a good ride in Feb after my B-Day...so Ill probably play with the clutches after that....

Ill take it all apart and see what I got...

Fpr all the Clutch parts how do I figure out what they are?

I think the springs will have the colors marked on them and Im not sure about teh weights or the helix if It will have a part number on it or anything...

Anyone know??

 

[REXX]

I believe I ran wieghts from a v-max four in my 03 mtn. (I got the number somewhere) I also changed to a silver spring in the secondary. At the same time we put on an MBRP pipe.
My sled felt like a dirtbike and pulled 10800-11000+ rpm consistently. Top end was 160kms (102mph on the speedo). The power always felt right and never over revved. similar elevation to you....northern sask. Everything from chest deep powder to hills to fields, lakes and trails were ridden. Some of the drag guys had run it out here because it was so linear.

My 07 apex hits 11200 in a blip. I'm changing the rivets to match the Warrior, but if I can't pull 10800- 11000 I'll change back.
-----------------------------
07 Apex mtn SE
03 RX mtn totalled

 

[..Stiffler..]

Well I bought my sled from a guy up in Edson, Alta so maybe he did do something like this...

cause that sounds exactly to what my sled is doing...

thx for the info...imma have to check the clutch when I get time...

 

[Frostbite]

The V max four weights were a 8BU-00 or later they were 8BU-10. Those weights damn near rip your arms out of your shoulder sockets on take off. I tried them in my MSRX and couldn't pull more than 8,000 RPM with them. I never did try the -10 weights.

I bet they'd be a kick in the RX-1.

Frosty

 

[culvert]

I'm running the 8BU-10 in my 05 RX and yes it pulls hard off the line, then nice and smooth. I think I need alittle more tip weight as mine gets up to the 10700-11000 range. I know the heel is 13.9 not sure on the tip. 13.3 or 10.3steel?? Going to pull one wieght and take in to dealer to compare rivits.

Anybody have a 42 reverse gear for sale? Or know the best place in Canada to get one, good price too!

Culvert

 

[spray25]

Just do what Frosty does and you will be good to go. I have not seen a naturally aspirated machine do what his does. Very nice set-up and he knows his poop.

J.

+1

Frosty has the hardest pullin N.A. RX-1 I have ever ridden.

 

[Frostbite]

Thanks J and Ray!

I guess you guys don't ride with too many naturally aspirated RX-1s? I'm sure there are plenty out there that would kick my tail.

Now that my sled is climbing at over 10,000 RPMs for the first time since I have owned it I am really starting to like it. When I get it climbing at 10,700 to 10,800 it will really be a kick. I just hate to make it slower doing so.

Thanks again

Frosty