malado
Newbie
07 Attak GT, just shy of 7200 miles. Last 5 or so times trying to start, the engine cranking seemed to get progressively longer. It would occasionally pop backfire slightly. Now it will not start at all. Used to fire up immediately. Getting a 12 code on the display with a flashing engine light. Also the amber light is flashing twice quickly when cranking. Dealers indicating the 12 code is a crank position sensor-no such sensor available on the Yamaha parts list. Dealers saying either the stator or the computer. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
nate007
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2006
- Messages
- 2,770
- Location
- Iowa City, Iowa
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 1. '06 Apex -twin screw
2. '04 Redline Revolt 800
3. '09 Nytro XTX - twin screw
Yes, the crank sensor code is code 12, and I'd start with simply verifying that the sensor is good.
If you look in the nose of your sled next to the voltage reculator, you'll see a 2 wire set of connectors with a grey and black wire to them. It will be coming out of the harness right with the heavier wires to the regulator. Try checking those for any corrosion first. If simply cleaning that plug doesn't help, try this
Using an ohm meter on the crank sensor plug (I believe it's the black plug of that pair) connect your positive tester lead to the grey wire, and negative to the black wire and read the ohms. It should read between 445~545 ohms. If it doesn't read between that post your results and we'll go from there. It's possible that your sensor needs adjusted to the proper gap to the stator wheel, or the sensor is faulty. If it's faulty, I can help you find another one.
The dealer may be telling you that if it's only available with the entire stator cover, but there's other options if you need it. I know it's not your computer since it's actually reading the sensor and telling you that it's not getting the correct signal from it, which is what the code 12 is. If the ecu were bad, you'd have an ER-"x" showing on the screen and it wouldn't be doing anything. Of all the people who post that they've changed their computers, Im pretty sure they've all ended up solving their issues with something else. The computers are pretty rugged, and are rarely the cause of a problem.
If you look in the nose of your sled next to the voltage reculator, you'll see a 2 wire set of connectors with a grey and black wire to them. It will be coming out of the harness right with the heavier wires to the regulator. Try checking those for any corrosion first. If simply cleaning that plug doesn't help, try this
Using an ohm meter on the crank sensor plug (I believe it's the black plug of that pair) connect your positive tester lead to the grey wire, and negative to the black wire and read the ohms. It should read between 445~545 ohms. If it doesn't read between that post your results and we'll go from there. It's possible that your sensor needs adjusted to the proper gap to the stator wheel, or the sensor is faulty. If it's faulty, I can help you find another one.
The dealer may be telling you that if it's only available with the entire stator cover, but there's other options if you need it. I know it's not your computer since it's actually reading the sensor and telling you that it's not getting the correct signal from it, which is what the code 12 is. If the ecu were bad, you'd have an ER-"x" showing on the screen and it wouldn't be doing anything. Of all the people who post that they've changed their computers, Im pretty sure they've all ended up solving their issues with something else. The computers are pretty rugged, and are rarely the cause of a problem.
malado
Newbie
Nate007, Thanks for the info. I intend to drag the machine into the garage Friday and start in on it. I strongly doubt there is any corrosion. I've kept the machine very clean and have dissected many aspects for maintenance or aftermarket add-ons. I do have a few questions about your reply. I've never had any reason to get at the engine other than exhaust issues. My 1st questions is; Can the flywheel/stator be accessed without removing the engine? 2nd question; Do I test the ohms while cranking? Please excuse my ignorance, I have little to no experience with this type of electrical problem. I've been searching the web for resources (manuals or youtube videos) that would assist with this diagnosis/repair but have been unable to find anything. Are you aware of any such resources via the web?
Thanks again and I'll be in touch!
Thanks again and I'll be in touch!
malado
Newbie
Code 12 will not start
Well I checked the ohms on both the crank position sensor and the stator with a analog multimeter and they appear to be within spec. How critical is the 68 degrees? I had my torpedo heater blowing on the sled until it was warm to the touch so I suspect the temp may have been higher than 68. Not sure what to try next, any suggestions? I hate to drop the $$$ on a new OEM stator unit if that's not the problem. My dealers quoted me $370 ish for the new stator---ouch! Please help......
Well I checked the ohms on both the crank position sensor and the stator with a analog multimeter and they appear to be within spec. How critical is the 68 degrees? I had my torpedo heater blowing on the sled until it was warm to the touch so I suspect the temp may have been higher than 68. Not sure what to try next, any suggestions? I hate to drop the $$$ on a new OEM stator unit if that's not the problem. My dealers quoted me $370 ish for the new stator---ouch! Please help......
