saskattakman
Expert
well was out riding this weekend...fairly loose snow covered trails, everytime i went to idle the sled the coolant temp light came on....back home at the end of the day got to check the coolant and its at -60 C....looks like it straight antifreeze....so i have warranty on the sled is this something they will look after to change it to a 60/40 or 50/50 mix?? im gonna try the cheap route before i go to an exchanger..
bashley
Expert
My Attak always overheated at idle until I tested it an found it to be straight glycol and diluted it to about 60/40. Now it will idle all day. Never had any issues while riding either way though.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
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The cheap route is to just let out some coolant and add some water. There is nothing special or complicated about it. Your dealer might do this for you, but it really isn't a warranty issue. I wouldn't count on them not trying to charge you.
Something you can do REAL EASY to improve cooling capacity. If memory serves, the stock rear cross tube is made of STEEL, which is a poor conductor. Get yourself a couple of 1" copper elbows and a piece of pipe and make a copper cross-tube. The 1" tube is a little bigger than stock, but with a little force, you can get the hoses over it.
Something you can do REAL EASY to improve cooling capacity. If memory serves, the stock rear cross tube is made of STEEL, which is a poor conductor. Get yourself a couple of 1" copper elbows and a piece of pipe and make a copper cross-tube. The 1" tube is a little bigger than stock, but with a little force, you can get the hoses over it.
saskattakman
Expert
is there a drain plug on the block or do you have to remove a hose...by the time i load it and take it to the dealer i might as well do it myself...approx how much should i drain and then refill with distilled water??
YAttak07
Extreme
Believe I drained about 2 L.
LazyBastard
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I only have the coolant capacities listed for 2003. Yours should be about the same though since it really is the same machine. If yours has a radiator near the chaincase, then your coolant capacity may be slightly higher.
Capacity is listed at 4.7 L and mixing ratio is listed as 3:2, so dump out and replace 1.88 L of coolant with water (assuming that it is currently 100%).
If you drain it too far, you may need to bleed it. Bleed procedure is to lift the rear end up (not higher than the coolant bottle), remove drain bolt on cross-tube, fill until there is no air up to cold level. Replace drain bolt and cover bottle, run 3-5 minutes and bleed again. Repeat until there is no more air. If it gets hot while doing this, don't remove the bleed bolt or open the bottle -- let it cool down first.
I am not aware of any drains on the system, you may have to just remove a hose. If you are very patient, you can lift the front end up and drain it through the bleed hole in the cross tube. This will probably be the easiest way anyways, since it will drain in a controlled manner. You can add a measured amount of water as it is draining and close the drain bolt when all the water has been added. This approach eliminates the need to bleed the system.
Capacity is listed at 4.7 L and mixing ratio is listed as 3:2, so dump out and replace 1.88 L of coolant with water (assuming that it is currently 100%).
If you drain it too far, you may need to bleed it. Bleed procedure is to lift the rear end up (not higher than the coolant bottle), remove drain bolt on cross-tube, fill until there is no air up to cold level. Replace drain bolt and cover bottle, run 3-5 minutes and bleed again. Repeat until there is no more air. If it gets hot while doing this, don't remove the bleed bolt or open the bottle -- let it cool down first.
I am not aware of any drains on the system, you may have to just remove a hose. If you are very patient, you can lift the front end up and drain it through the bleed hole in the cross tube. This will probably be the easiest way anyways, since it will drain in a controlled manner. You can add a measured amount of water as it is draining and close the drain bolt when all the water has been added. This approach eliminates the need to bleed the system.
apltx08
TY 4 Stroke God
LazyBastard said:If memory serves, the stock rear cross tube is made of STEEL, which is a poor conductor.
On my '05 RX1 shorty and '08 APEX L-TX were both in ALUMINUM...
apltx08
TY 4 Stroke God
YAttak07 said:Believe I drained about 2 L.
Ditto and replace w/distilled water...
I've always added rear heat exchanger and diluted coolant on both my 4 strokes and NEVER overheated!