Thatspec
Extreme
Pretty dissapointed in the yamaha primary. 2200 miles and I'm developing cracks down at the base of the primary sheaves. They are only about 2mm so far. How big should I let them get before I replace this POS?
Stats;
'03 RX1 MT.
8DN-10 arms 13.9 inner, 10.3 tip YPY spring
Not sure about gearing, hits about 92 at 10700 on the DM (10200 while climbing). Should be pretty much stock, though has reverse.
Offset, and deflection have always been spot on.
Clutch gets far too hot to touch after five minutes of churning in the bottomless so I generally rest it at that point.
Just recently posted under that blown belt thread how the Ultimax 3 belt I was using was going strong. Well that one blew up as well (first U3 lasted 80 miles though not broken in properly) and had to go back to the OEM spare (really couldn't tell the difference BTW).
Don't think there is anything wrong with these clutches beyond the fact they are not up to the task of deep powder riding (fine for trail riding).
What are your experiences?
Thanks, Mark
Stats;
'03 RX1 MT.
8DN-10 arms 13.9 inner, 10.3 tip YPY spring
Not sure about gearing, hits about 92 at 10700 on the DM (10200 while climbing). Should be pretty much stock, though has reverse.
Offset, and deflection have always been spot on.
Clutch gets far too hot to touch after five minutes of churning in the bottomless so I generally rest it at that point.
Just recently posted under that blown belt thread how the Ultimax 3 belt I was using was going strong. Well that one blew up as well (first U3 lasted 80 miles though not broken in properly) and had to go back to the OEM spare (really couldn't tell the difference BTW).
Don't think there is anything wrong with these clutches beyond the fact they are not up to the task of deep powder riding (fine for trail riding).
What are your experiences?
Thanks, Mark
Attachments
Not a matter of if, but when. Take a look what happens if you just ignore it
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=26516
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=26516
yamrx1
Expert
Exactly my thoughts.Don't take a chance with it could be more severe than you think...BlueByYou2000 said:
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
Your clutches shouldn't be running that hot. Bad calibration. Heat causes it to crack. Replace immediatly. I had a fixed break into 3 parts on my Exciter at 7300 rpm. One part went RIGHT THROUGH the hood, one went RIGHT THROUGH the STEEL FRAME, and the last just bounced around causing no damage. RX1 clutch spins 8700-ish, so if it'll shoot right through steel at 7300, imagine how deep it'll cut into your skull at 8700. You'd be dead.
Thatspec
Extreme
Thanks for the wake up guys, thats a good thread.
There is nothing physically wrong with any of my clutch parts (aside from the cracks). Arms, weights, springs, helix, all new from Hartmans in the last 1200 miles. As mentioned, offset, and deflection are spot on. We are just passing 600 inches of snow this season to give you an idea of the conditions I ride in (if I'm on a groomed trail for a mile its too long). I'm at the point where I believe this clutch was just not made for this.
I'm considering gutting the left side panel and screening for better (read that as ANY) venting. I don't see how air gets in there at all. The vents are always plugged with snow, a vertical side vent may stay clear.
I guess my choices are spend the approx $200 on new sheaves, or change it to something stronger which is what?
On a positive note I should mention that I spoke to Carlisle power transmission products about the blown Ultimax 3 belts to find out what my warranty status was. I sent one to them in late january, and hadn't heard anything. They are going to overnight me two new Ultimax 3 belts, don't even want to see the second one. Very friendly customer service. Said it usually takes 2-3 weeks, wasn't sure what the delay was. I believe the second belt lasted 1100 miles or so because we hadn't received any large snowfalls for that month so I did alot of trail riding, and exploring the woods. We got over 100" in the past week, and it went pop pretty quickly. I will say they blow pretty cleanly, neither got stuck in the secondary (had a Gates make an awful mess once, could be coincidence).
Suppose I would prefer to get a different clutch rather than throwing more money into this one assuming the same thing would happen. What are the various incarnations of the P-85, or which is the most heavy duty? Any other brands worth looking at?
There is nothing physically wrong with any of my clutch parts (aside from the cracks). Arms, weights, springs, helix, all new from Hartmans in the last 1200 miles. As mentioned, offset, and deflection are spot on. We are just passing 600 inches of snow this season to give you an idea of the conditions I ride in (if I'm on a groomed trail for a mile its too long). I'm at the point where I believe this clutch was just not made for this.
I'm considering gutting the left side panel and screening for better (read that as ANY) venting. I don't see how air gets in there at all. The vents are always plugged with snow, a vertical side vent may stay clear.
I guess my choices are spend the approx $200 on new sheaves, or change it to something stronger which is what?
On a positive note I should mention that I spoke to Carlisle power transmission products about the blown Ultimax 3 belts to find out what my warranty status was. I sent one to them in late january, and hadn't heard anything. They are going to overnight me two new Ultimax 3 belts, don't even want to see the second one. Very friendly customer service. Said it usually takes 2-3 weeks, wasn't sure what the delay was. I believe the second belt lasted 1100 miles or so because we hadn't received any large snowfalls for that month so I did alot of trail riding, and exploring the woods. We got over 100" in the past week, and it went pop pretty quickly. I will say they blow pretty cleanly, neither got stuck in the secondary (had a Gates make an awful mess once, could be coincidence).
Suppose I would prefer to get a different clutch rather than throwing more money into this one assuming the same thing would happen. What are the various incarnations of the P-85, or which is the most heavy duty? Any other brands worth looking at?
Thatspec
Extreme
Added pic of the one I'm most worried about. I called Hartmans about it, and Tom says many of these are there from the factory. If you can catch it with a fingernail, don't let it get more than 3/8" before replacement.
The large one in the pic is barely an 1/8" and I can just feel it with my nail. Hoping this will get me through the season.
My main problem is likely that I'm not geared low enough, and just discovered that I have the stock 16.5mm rollers (best I could measure without removal)! Anyone want to trade these for some 14.5-15mm? It appears even the Apex MT. gets stuck with larger rollers than the other Apex models from the factory. I guess in the mountains we don't need as much belt side pressure?!
Still interested in your experiences using other than the YVXC clutch.
Thanks, Mark
The large one in the pic is barely an 1/8" and I can just feel it with my nail. Hoping this will get me through the season.
My main problem is likely that I'm not geared low enough, and just discovered that I have the stock 16.5mm rollers (best I could measure without removal)! Anyone want to trade these for some 14.5-15mm? It appears even the Apex MT. gets stuck with larger rollers than the other Apex models from the factory. I guess in the mountains we don't need as much belt side pressure?!
Still interested in your experiences using other than the YVXC clutch.
Thanks, Mark
This is a common thing on the yami clutches I've seen many like that.
bent
Newbie
hey peeps like to say hi and tell youi enjoy these fourms. I have some questions about my rx1 my cluch has problems like the pics show and i was wondering where i can get a new one from other that yammy iam in sask,canada if some can help me out iam looking for a new rear skid as well
thanks bent
thanks bent
Thatspec, there are many opinions on clutching and mine is just one of them, (with some real #s to consider) but if your engine is stock, part of your problem is your overreving it. 10,200 ~ 10,700 sounds and feels good but you're actually giving up HP and torque there. Unless your engine is modded, best overlap of both is around 9800. You should only see 10,200 on hard pack level trail after a looong pull, not while your hogging around in deep stuff. Overrev is also harder on your belts and clutch. You mention how hot it gets and LB is dead on, heat is a belt and clutch killer. Excess heat also means you're losing efficiency.
The UM belt might also be adding to it, you did mention that you didn't notice any difference when you ran the stock belt? If Simons CPR 500HP RX runs a stock Yam belt most of us probably can too.
Far as those cracks, just keep an eye on 'em, I've seen this often and they rarely end up getting worse. But if they start growing quickly, replace the sheaves, as LB said you don't want a catastrophic failure.
But like I said, JMO.
The UM belt might also be adding to it, you did mention that you didn't notice any difference when you ran the stock belt? If Simons CPR 500HP RX runs a stock Yam belt most of us probably can too.
Far as those cracks, just keep an eye on 'em, I've seen this often and they rarely end up getting worse. But if they start growing quickly, replace the sheaves, as LB said you don't want a catastrophic failure.
But like I said, JMO.