• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

Drag n Fly ?? Top end??


SledFreak said:
The black is for mountain sleds.
I wish he would stste that in his instructions than,he gives you two springs but does not exsplain what the other one is for. thanks
 
The black would probably be better for mountain sleds but can be made to work well anywhere. It just has lower preload & more total force.
I use the black with 2 speeds in my nytro & with those weights it works great!
 
Turk said:
The black would probably be better for mountain sleds but can be made to work well anywhere. It just has lower preload & more total force.
I use the black with 2 speeds in my nytro & with those weights it works Ya i kinda like the lower preload,as i am not big on high engagement anyways and being unstudded if i run high engagement it just spins that extra power out the back anyway,so after i give your set up a try i may give the black spring a try too.great!
 
mnmsnowbeast said:
has anyone tried the black spring that came with the kit,the instructions say it is 170/400 and white was 170/360 or something as i am at work so i cant confirm those numbers,but has anyone had luck w/the black spring,and loading up to the instructions randy has in kit??[/quo

I'm useing the blk spring now. I also like a little bit lower engagement, and was'nt sure and still not sure if the white will coil bind or not. I loaded them with the blk. 4.2 in arm, 5.2 first hole, 5.2 in od, 3.2 in tip. seems to be about the same with the white with somewhat less weight towards the tip.
 
1xr said:
mnmsnowbeast said:
has anyone tried the black spring that came with the kit,the instructions say it is 170/400 and white was 170/360 or something as i am at work so i cant confirm those numbers,but has anyone had luck w/the black spring,and loading up to the instructions randy has in kit??[/quo

I'm useing the blk spring now. I also like a little bit lower engagement, and was'nt sure and still not sure if the white will coil bind or not. I loaded them with the blk. 4.2 in arm, 5.2 first hole, 5.2 in od, 3.2 in tip. seems to be about the same with the white with somewhat less weight towards the tip.
Thanks brother,how does it feel loaded up that way? I am in the process of doing my first oil change at 1067 miles ya i know twice what the book calls for,but the oil still looks ok,now its all starting to come back to me,i had what i thought was all the screws out,so i could pull the pod,but it would not move,until i got lucky and i must of moved it just right,and it slid off the two tongues holding it onto the brace lol,than the air box comes right off,just like i remembered ha ha funny how you can forget stuff so quickly. well i found another complete primary clutch i had all ready to go,all i need to do is see if it has the same size rollers as my 07 apex,and i am good to go,now i can run my stock set up,do a few runs take some stats,pull off the primary stocker,install the new DF set up clutch,and see how they compare. Now the 5.2 in O.D. is what randy says to start with,hows your run with all that weight in it,better mid, and top?? thanks pete
 
Turk said:
The black would probably be better for mountain sleds but can be made to work well anywhere. It just has lower preload & more total force.
I use the black with 2 speeds in my nytro & with those weights it works great!

Turk, have you tried using D&F's with the stock spring? If so, what's your take on it.
 
mnmsnowbeast said:
1xr said:
mnmsnowbeast said:
has anyone tried the black spring that came with the kit,the instructions say it is 170/400 and white was 170/360 or something as i am at work so i cant confirm those numbers,but has anyone had luck w/the black spring,and loading up to the instructions randy has in kit??[/quo

I'm useing the blk spring now. I also like a little bit lower engagement, and was'nt sure and still not sure if the white will coil bind or not. I loaded them with the blk. 4.2 in arm, 5.2 first hole, 5.2 in od, 3.2 in tip. seems to be about the same with the white with somewhat less weight towards the tip.
Thanks brother,how does it feel loaded up that way? I am in the process of doing my first oil change at 1067 miles ya i know twice what the book calls for,but the oil still looks ok,now its all starting to come back to me,i had what i thought was all the screws out,so i could pull the pod,but it would not move,until i got lucky and i must of moved it just right,and it slid off the two tongues holding it onto the brace lol,than the air box comes right off,just like i remembered ha ha funny how you can forget stuff so quickly. well i found another complete primary clutch i had all ready to go,all i need to do is see if it has the same size rollers as my 07 apex,and i am good to go,now i can run my stock set up,do a few runs take some stats,pull off the primary stocker,install the new DF set up clutch,and see how they compare. Now the 5.2 in O.D. is what randy says to start with,hows your run with all that weight in it,better mid, and top?? thanks pete

Pete, what everyone seems to be doing now, is the load the the arm as heavy as you can, lead the tip as heavy as you can. Then run it from there and check RPM's. The adjust using the center hole if more weight is required. If you RPM is to low, then remove from the tip. Leave the OD empty. All of this using the white Primary Spring that comes with the kit. Good Luck.
 
Turk said:
Never tried em with stock springs. Lost access to an apex.
Turk what effect does the heel have on top rpms,any? If i need more rpms w/this dfw adding washers to the heel/arm does it pinch the belt just on low end more w/added weight and less w/out as much weight,also center or tip add rpms w/less weight? Thanks
 
Adding arm weight lowers engagement & pinches the belt harder down low to lower rpm,s.
So will inner to a point.Tip controls mainly top end rpm,s. Loading any spot heavily can cause the mass to override into other parts of the shift curve.
 
dfw

OK no top end loss w/dfw so far,using blk spring 4.2 heel,5.2 center,3.2 tip and 5.2 OD rips to 11000 and holds on very very hard pack,ran 110 gps on semi hard packed rr bed,as the only really good part of the trail was the very outside edge,the middle was chewed up some,dreameter said 125 for 110 gps i did hit 128 speedo once with out gps running,but i may still have only read same 110 as i am not studded yet,but the sled is now an animal from engagement to full shift,and i did not lose a race to any of the doo's or cats i ran w/this weekend,f-7 f-100 zr9 and rev 800's all saw my flap.
 
Turk said:
You would get better low & mid by adding 1 or 2 washers to heel
Hi turk,so even though i have the heel loaded to 4.2 add 1/2 to 1 more gram of weight to that area? Is that correct,now that wont have any effect on my full shift will it,i would like to see the max rpm stay at 10,800 or 10900 in stead of 11000 to 11,100...
 
It may bring you down 100 rpm on top but your holeshot & mid will be way stronger. add 1 washer at a time & see if you likee. Easy to do with the clutch still on the sled.
 


Back
Top