Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
Like I said on Freddies post. Thanks for coming up with this idea and testing it on a dyno. I'm tickled as he!! that it actually works!
Is there any advantage to going to perhaps 3/8" or 1/2" elbows and lines out of the filters and bringing the whole system up to 3/4" at some point closer to the the zinc fitting on the engine?
I'm thinking of Yamaha using 33mm carbs while everyone else used much larger ones. The smaller orifices "increased the velocity" of the air traveling through them. Now I'm wondering what the optimum size of line would be to best flow the evacuation air?
It's a no brainer to use 3/4" line since eventually one would have to go to 3/4" to hook into the engine mounted fixture but, why run 3/4" hose all that way (adding perhaps unneeded weight and I'm sure it's not pretty either with that big hose). This could be slowing down (losing vacuum) the air flow. It might be tough to measure but I'm guessing full length 3/4" line is not needed to accomplish the task at hand.
I may be way out in left field on this one but at least I brought it up now as an option before everyone modified their filters.
Again, great work! PB
Is there any advantage to going to perhaps 3/8" or 1/2" elbows and lines out of the filters and bringing the whole system up to 3/4" at some point closer to the the zinc fitting on the engine?
I'm thinking of Yamaha using 33mm carbs while everyone else used much larger ones. The smaller orifices "increased the velocity" of the air traveling through them. Now I'm wondering what the optimum size of line would be to best flow the evacuation air?
It's a no brainer to use 3/4" line since eventually one would have to go to 3/4" to hook into the engine mounted fixture but, why run 3/4" hose all that way (adding perhaps unneeded weight and I'm sure it's not pretty either with that big hose). This could be slowing down (losing vacuum) the air flow. It might be tough to measure but I'm guessing full length 3/4" line is not needed to accomplish the task at hand.
I may be way out in left field on this one but at least I brought it up now as an option before everyone modified their filters.
Again, great work! PB
Exactly my question Powder Blue.If you had all 4 carbs drawing on the 5/8 vent hose(stock box setup) then would we really need the 5/8 or 3/4 for each filter(2 carbs)?Seems we could split it between 1/2 hose on each filter and work up to the 5/8 and still be in good shape,especially for those who have the prefilters.Sounds like it would be tight under the prefilters with that size hose.
Anybody have a Legends race car or know someone that has one?These have the Yamaha 4cyl motors in 3 versions that could be checked out for their filter setup,just an idea,ive seen them but can`t remember what it looked like.Rule #53 in the Legends cars rule book says the oil crankcase breather may only be located under the carbs at stock outlet or in the oil fill cap.
Nice work Freddie and Dynarex
Anybody have a Legends race car or know someone that has one?These have the Yamaha 4cyl motors in 3 versions that could be checked out for their filter setup,just an idea,ive seen them but can`t remember what it looked like.Rule #53 in the Legends cars rule book says the oil crankcase breather may only be located under the carbs at stock outlet or in the oil fill cap.
Nice work Freddie and Dynarex
I would like to thank all that were involved at this project. I think it's great that we have a bunch of guys that are taking to time to make this happen. I still have a dream that there WILL be a TY Group that will run some sleds at the AMsnow shoot out next year and efforts like this make it easier to make this dream happen... (Allen are you ready to pull the trigger yet...)
Also... I spent the day out on Oneida Lake (near Syracuse, NY). Guys there is some SERIOUS Iron out on this lake. Some of the Fastest sleds I've ever seen run at this lake. Most of them you can trail ride as well... (I said 'most' :lol: ) The Warrior did well against the other 700/800's today and even against 'some' 780's :lol: btw. I was the only 4-stroke out there... I think I sold some more 4-strokes today... :lol:
Oh yea, I have a question: How many miles did this sled have on it?
Thanks again,
--Buster696--
Also... I spent the day out on Oneida Lake (near Syracuse, NY). Guys there is some SERIOUS Iron out on this lake. Some of the Fastest sleds I've ever seen run at this lake. Most of them you can trail ride as well... (I said 'most' :lol: ) The Warrior did well against the other 700/800's today and even against 'some' 780's :lol: btw. I was the only 4-stroke out there... I think I sold some more 4-strokes today... :lol:
Oh yea, I have a question: How many miles did this sled have on it?
Thanks again,
--Buster696--
DYNAREX
Expert
the 2 hoses going into filters are 5/8 as is the rest of it untill the actual crank fitting hose which is 3/4-there is no advantage to smaller hose
each carb is basicallt drawing air through 1/2 the 5/8 hose which is 5/16 per carb-if the line was smaller i would tend to think that "freeze ups"would occur in that the velocity would increase in the hose and what little moisture there is would freeze and block the line
the velocity in the smaller carbs is only increased in the venturi area-the engine is inhaling the same amt of air and will do so from the least restrictive point-the least restrictive part initially is the crankcase -as you can see by the bottom end torque gain-then as the crankcase begins to become a "vacuum" the engine will start to draw more air from the filter media as the rpms go up-
so its basically a "self adjusting"system where it only creates as much vacuum as it needs
the "kit" ive made isnt ugly-one of freddies friends stopped by while we were working on it and thought it was stock with these hoses
each carb is basicallt drawing air through 1/2 the 5/8 hose which is 5/16 per carb-if the line was smaller i would tend to think that "freeze ups"would occur in that the velocity would increase in the hose and what little moisture there is would freeze and block the line
the velocity in the smaller carbs is only increased in the venturi area-the engine is inhaling the same amt of air and will do so from the least restrictive point-the least restrictive part initially is the crankcase -as you can see by the bottom end torque gain-then as the crankcase begins to become a "vacuum" the engine will start to draw more air from the filter media as the rpms go up-
so its basically a "self adjusting"system where it only creates as much vacuum as it needs
the "kit" ive made isnt ugly-one of freddies friends stopped by while we were working on it and thought it was stock with these hoses
Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
Dynarex, if that's the case that's fine with me but there are a bunch of us who will need to be able to get those hoses under our prefilters. That was one of the reasons for the smaller hose theory.
Is there a need for a drain in the system or is a little condensation on par with a water injection system :lol:
Do you think I could "T" my nitrous lines into these lines or should I run a separate line to the filters tops? That doesn't need to be answered right now because it's a next season project.
Thanks for your excellent work. Count me in for a kit (if it's pretty :lol: ) PB
Is there a need for a drain in the system or is a little condensation on par with a water injection system :lol:
Do you think I could "T" my nitrous lines into these lines or should I run a separate line to the filters tops? That doesn't need to be answered right now because it's a next season project.
Thanks for your excellent work. Count me in for a kit (if it's pretty :lol: ) PB
DYNAREX
Expert
powder blue-
if you are running the prefilters-ther will be a tiny slit in them where the grommett fits into the filter housing-the prefilter will be sealed to this grommet so as not to compromise the "prefiltering"
ive found that there is a need for the water trap-a water injection system is designed to go after the carb not before so as not to freeze up the slides-after the engine shuts down and youre parked a while the moisture condenses,drips to the bottom,and freezes-if its frozen below the suction port it wont cause a restriction
i wouldnt run nitrous through these-use onlt dedicated nitrous lines for that
oh-ill see if i can find hose thats"powder blue"in color!
if you are running the prefilters-ther will be a tiny slit in them where the grommett fits into the filter housing-the prefilter will be sealed to this grommet so as not to compromise the "prefiltering"
ive found that there is a need for the water trap-a water injection system is designed to go after the carb not before so as not to freeze up the slides-after the engine shuts down and youre parked a while the moisture condenses,drips to the bottom,and freezes-if its frozen below the suction port it wont cause a restriction
i wouldnt run nitrous through these-use onlt dedicated nitrous lines for that
oh-ill see if i can find hose thats"powder blue"in color!
170plus
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2004
- Messages
- 541
- Location
- washburn maine
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2021 polaris assault 850,18 sidewinder ltx,14 nitro xtx,06 apex rtx,
i went to the hardware store this morning as soon as they opened,$3.23 later and i had my breather piped into the filters,hose,elbows,t-fitting. i run it from the stock oil baffle black plastic funny shaped thing(whatever its called) by the fuel pumps,i just used the u-shaped rubber line and routed it under instead of over the oil baffle so it wouldnt be sticking way up off everything,t-fitting was tie wrapped to battery box strap and 2 short hoses from there up to the elbows on the filters,$3.23 and 30 min of trial and error and there it was,black hose and gray plastic fittings ended up looking pretty good,thanks for the info guys
I assume if you have a turbo this would still give you the HP gains??? If it would be worth doing, any ideas on how to do it?
Waterboy
Extreme
DYNAREX
Interested in the evacuation kit or picture and instructions. One of the questions posted was how does the pull over snow sock (prefilter) become effected.
Am also interested in your Hammertime set-up. Have just installed same and am currently looking for a sort cut for test/tune. The snow is leaving fast.
Interested in the evacuation kit or picture and instructions. One of the questions posted was how does the pull over snow sock (prefilter) become effected.
Am also interested in your Hammertime set-up. Have just installed same and am currently looking for a sort cut for test/tune. The snow is leaving fast.
Silverbullet
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Wildbill, If your turbos under the hood no problem, but if it's under the seat you've got a long ways to go 8)

Cubby's RX-1
VIP Member
hey Waterboy, save the snow up there for me until thursday, I am coming up this weekend. Here's a picture of what mine look like with the prefilters and meet me at the Portage anytime this weekend to see it up close and personal.---- Cubby
Similar threads
- Replies
- 4
- Views
- 1K
- Replies
- 2
- Views
- 2K
- Replies
- 0
- Views
- 828
-
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.