Hello,
I'm having problems with my 2008 Yamaha FX Nytro MTX
Earlier I had error code 34 and it did misfire on cylender #2 so I switch coils and new spark plugs and still the same. So I connected my ECU to another sled and got the same error so I thought (and everybody else) that this was caused by bad ECU
So I bought new ECU and the sled fired right up and no problems. So I took it for a ride and then the sled began to loose power and showed error 34 and 35 and misfires on cylender #2 and #3 so it barely runs. it's in some kind of limp mode
I unplugged coil on cylender #1 and still only got error 34 and 35, not error 33 which is for cylender #1.
Do you guys have any idea what might be wrong?
Thanks,
Mike
I'm having problems with my 2008 Yamaha FX Nytro MTX
Earlier I had error code 34 and it did misfire on cylender #2 so I switch coils and new spark plugs and still the same. So I connected my ECU to another sled and got the same error so I thought (and everybody else) that this was caused by bad ECU
So I bought new ECU and the sled fired right up and no problems. So I took it for a ride and then the sled began to loose power and showed error 34 and 35 and misfires on cylender #2 and #3 so it barely runs. it's in some kind of limp mode
I unplugged coil on cylender #1 and still only got error 34 and 35, not error 33 which is for cylender #1.
Do you guys have any idea what might be wrong?
Thanks,
Mike
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
What is you battery voltage when idling at 2000 RPM?
Do you have TORS (Throttle Cable Freeplay) adjusted correctly?
Do you have TORS (Throttle Cable Freeplay) adjusted correctly?
rdlit
Newbie
Error code 33, 34, 35
Here's what I found on mine. In the first Pic, I believe the wires should have been positioned behind the protective plate not around the side and a small zip-tie would help as well and possibly some teflon wrap to prevent chaffing (used when i turned wrenched on F-16s back in the day). The second pic is with the cover removed, note the opening in the insulation. It was not that apparent until i moved the wire and noticed a hairline in the insulation. When i probed with a sml screwdriver, it came right open. The bare wires were probably not contacting the plate directly, but due to the split in the insulation, it would be prone to arc under a load.
Here's what I found on mine. In the first Pic, I believe the wires should have been positioned behind the protective plate not around the side and a small zip-tie would help as well and possibly some teflon wrap to prevent chaffing (used when i turned wrenched on F-16s back in the day). The second pic is with the cover removed, note the opening in the insulation. It was not that apparent until i moved the wire and noticed a hairline in the insulation. When i probed with a sml screwdriver, it came right open. The bare wires were probably not contacting the plate directly, but due to the split in the insulation, it would be prone to arc under a load.
Attachments
rdlit
Newbie
Thanks on trouble code 33, 34, 35
Here is the link i used to troubleshoot my issue. Thank-you Icemike, GBeaudoin, and Len Todd
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=
Here is the link i used to troubleshoot my issue. Thank-you Icemike, GBeaudoin, and Len Todd
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=
I connected the old ecu which has error #34 and got it fired up to checked the voltage. The battery voltage when idling at 2000 is 13.95 and 12.48 when off.
I got brand new battery to test and still got the same error.
It's wierd that one ecu has one error and the other one has two errors?
With the old ECU that has error #34 i disconnected the wire from the coil on cylender 2 and the error cleared. does anyone know why that happened? so it was running on cylender #1 and #3 and had no error.
I removed the crank sensor and didn't see anything wrong with the insulation.
Could it be any relay or voltage regulator or any other sensor?
Thanks,
Mike
I got brand new battery to test and still got the same error.
It's wierd that one ecu has one error and the other one has two errors?
With the old ECU that has error #34 i disconnected the wire from the coil on cylender 2 and the error cleared. does anyone know why that happened? so it was running on cylender #1 and #3 and had no error.
I removed the crank sensor and didn't see anything wrong with the insulation.
Could it be any relay or voltage regulator or any other sensor?
Thanks,
Mike
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
Could you have gotten the sled doused with snow and then gotten water in a connector? You might have to open the connectors up and clean them with contact cleaner. Water in a connector could give you a short.
Did you check the connector at the ECU and the connector at the gage?
Also, could any wires be chaffing anywhere where a wire is near metal, especially down by the ECU in the nose of the sled?
Did you check the connector at the ECU and the connector at the gage?
Also, could any wires be chaffing anywhere where a wire is near metal, especially down by the ECU in the nose of the sled?
Hello,
I checked the wires and didn't see any chaffing.
I also cleaned every connector in the sled with contact cleaner so there shouldn't be any water in connectors and the sled has been stored in heated garage.
I don't understand why I don't have the same errors in both ECU's
Any other suggestions?
Thanks,
Mike
I checked the wires and didn't see any chaffing.
I also cleaned every connector in the sled with contact cleaner so there shouldn't be any water in connectors and the sled has been stored in heated garage.
I don't understand why I don't have the same errors in both ECU's
Any other suggestions?
Thanks,
Mike
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
I attached the Tech Manual's Ignition System Testing and Troubleshooting guide.
Your charging volatge is O.K. and you have the new battery so you can rule that out.
Did you test the coils? You could have a coil going bad, when it gets hot. There is a Spark Gap Test and a Resistance Check for the coils. It might be easier to take some out of another sled, too, if you have one.
Then test (versus inspect) the Crank Position Sensor.
Then you are into testing switches. I do not recall you telling us that Throttle Free-play was adjusted correctly. ?
Then you can do a resistance check on the TPS. Do not loosen it from the carb body. Test it in place.
From there you are into checking all wiring for chaffing.
How about the speed sensor? If it is not functioning correctly it throws a TORS signal from the ECU.
Your charging volatge is O.K. and you have the new battery so you can rule that out.
Did you test the coils? You could have a coil going bad, when it gets hot. There is a Spark Gap Test and a Resistance Check for the coils. It might be easier to take some out of another sled, too, if you have one.
Then test (versus inspect) the Crank Position Sensor.
Then you are into testing switches. I do not recall you telling us that Throttle Free-play was adjusted correctly. ?
Then you can do a resistance check on the TPS. Do not loosen it from the carb body. Test it in place.
From there you are into checking all wiring for chaffing.
How about the speed sensor? If it is not functioning correctly it throws a TORS signal from the ECU.
Thanks Len Todd,
I switched coils from cylender #1 to cylender #2 (i'm using the ECU that has one error, error 34).
So it shouldn't be the coils right? also it doesn't matter if the sled is hot or cold. it always has code 34.
The trottle free play is adjusted.
Shouldn't it be showing error 84 if the TPS is going bad?
About the Crank position sensor, if it's bad wouldn't it be showing errors 33, 34 and 35?
What do you suggest as next step?
Also, is it normal if I start the sled with cylender #2 unplugged that the error codes goes away?
Thanks,
Mike
I switched coils from cylender #1 to cylender #2 (i'm using the ECU that has one error, error 34).
So it shouldn't be the coils right? also it doesn't matter if the sled is hot or cold. it always has code 34.
The trottle free play is adjusted.
Shouldn't it be showing error 84 if the TPS is going bad?
About the Crank position sensor, if it's bad wouldn't it be showing errors 33, 34 and 35?
What do you suggest as next step?
Also, is it normal if I start the sled with cylender #2 unplugged that the error codes goes away?
Thanks,
Mike
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
There is a trouble shooting guide in the attached file I sent you. I would work my way down that guide.
Some of the assumptions you listed above may not be correct. For example: You just swapped one coil from one cylinder to another. That is not testing the coils for coil resistance or gap resistance. It you borrow three coils from another known to be working correctly sled to test, then you can safely say you do not need to test the coils. But if you use your coils, they need to be tested per the Tech Manual. Swapping them around may show a different code. Then again it may not.
Also, you ask if other codes should be thrown if it is a this or that problem. In most cases, that is correct. However, I have seen several cases in the ignition system where this has not always be true. Consequently, not having the sled in my garage, I suggest you systematicly follow the troubleshooting guide and perform the required tests, component by component.
So, go through the testing component by component as they suggest. Forget your current assumptions. If you do the tests correctly and in the order they suggest you should find the problem.
I had a problem with my first EFI Arctic Cat. We went through most of this type of testing. It took me about 5 trips to the dealer just to convince them I had a real problem. It was an intermittent TPS. It took a trip from the Arctic Cat Engineering Department to come out and find the problem. They spent days looking for the problem. But, they found it and fixed it. It was that experience that caused/afforded me the opportunity to really learn that EFI system.
Some of the assumptions you listed above may not be correct. For example: You just swapped one coil from one cylinder to another. That is not testing the coils for coil resistance or gap resistance. It you borrow three coils from another known to be working correctly sled to test, then you can safely say you do not need to test the coils. But if you use your coils, they need to be tested per the Tech Manual. Swapping them around may show a different code. Then again it may not.
Also, you ask if other codes should be thrown if it is a this or that problem. In most cases, that is correct. However, I have seen several cases in the ignition system where this has not always be true. Consequently, not having the sled in my garage, I suggest you systematicly follow the troubleshooting guide and perform the required tests, component by component.
So, go through the testing component by component as they suggest. Forget your current assumptions. If you do the tests correctly and in the order they suggest you should find the problem.
I had a problem with my first EFI Arctic Cat. We went through most of this type of testing. It took me about 5 trips to the dealer just to convince them I had a real problem. It was an intermittent TPS. It took a trip from the Arctic Cat Engineering Department to come out and find the problem. They spent days looking for the problem. But, they found it and fixed it. It was that experience that caused/afforded me the opportunity to really learn that EFI system.
