PSUApex09
Veteran
I've done all the needed steps to replace my exhaust donuts on my 06 apex rtx. I've encountered two problems... First I cannot get one of the exhaust clamps off. Yes I have the right size Allen head and I have wd40 it alot. I just don't want to crank on it and have a flex pipe or y pipe break on me. Any suggestions? Also the two Allen head bolts that hold the y pipe in place are rusted a bit and the inside of the head has become rounded... And I didn't even try to loosen them... And the aluminum guard prevents me from getting something around the whole head itself. Also.. what is the best way to get a good look at the y pipes?
I'm a little frustrated but I know there's a way...
I'm a little frustrated but I know there's a way...
I had to use a propane torch to heat up mine so they would break loose......
The Artist
Extreme
For the y pipe drill out the rivets that hold the bracket to the tunnel
shanksyamaha
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I did a total turbo install last year and found that the exhaust doughnuts were the worst part of the entire job... I would definatley try heating the bolt to get the clamp off...
Budweiser
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Drill out the rivets. But, and people chime in if I'm wrong, use steel rivets. I used aluminum last year all wore through but 3. Sled was rattling like donuts were bad but they were all good, it was the clamp rattlling. I replaced with steel.
I also do the all the work on a friends sled and his is doing the same thing. I suspect the rivets have worn through on his also. Haven't got around to looking at it yet...this weekend.
Learning curve for me!!
I didn't have to heat mine to get off but wouldn't hesitate. I also used anti-seize on the threads and they come off easier now. Easier, not easy, they still snap when loosening!!
I have replaced the rounded allen head bolt on the clamp with a regular bolt also.....
I also do the all the work on a friends sled and his is doing the same thing. I suspect the rivets have worn through on his also. Haven't got around to looking at it yet...this weekend.
Learning curve for me!!
I didn't have to heat mine to get off but wouldn't hesitate. I also used anti-seize on the threads and they come off easier now. Easier, not easy, they still snap when loosening!!
I have replaced the rounded allen head bolt on the clamp with a regular bolt also.....
sledneck22
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I had the same problem with the 2 allen head bolds that hold the y-pipes on. I heated them up and still couldn't get them so I just drilled those allen head bolts out. When I reinstalled I didn't even bother putting that heat shield back in or bolt the y-pipes to the tunnel. I figure it might be better or at least try and see if the y-pipes last longer not being bolted down so rigid. This way the only thing attaching to the y-pipe is the flex header pipe and the muffler. I then put about 5 layers of aluminum taped over the rivet holes and tunnel to act somewhat of a heat shield. Hopefully this will help and if not we will all know about it! 
Attak44
Extreme
PSU,
I had the same problem just last night as I was changing mine. I used an EZ out and all was good. This whole doughnut configuration was poorly thought out IMO.
I had the same problem just last night as I was changing mine. I used an EZ out and all was good. This whole doughnut configuration was poorly thought out IMO.
PSUApex09
Veteran
I appreciate all the responses guys. I tried heating and remving the hex bolt while still on the sled and had no luck. So I take the grinder to it. Once I had the c clamp off I heated it again, a bit more this time and put it in the vice. I was able to break the bolt free and get it off.
For the 2 Allen bolts for the y pipes I decided to weld a nut on top. It was tough to keep it straight but I got a good weld and was able to crank them off. They were stiff for sure. I ground down the welded nut a bit and I'm just going to keep them invade there's a next time.
The worst thing for the evening was to find out while opening the bags for the new donuts was that one of them had z hairline crack in it... So I'm gunna have to get another one. I'm hoping I can order Tom and have it delivered by mon/tues.
For the 2 Allen bolts for the y pipes I decided to weld a nut on top. It was tough to keep it straight but I got a good weld and was able to crank them off. They were stiff for sure. I ground down the welded nut a bit and I'm just going to keep them invade there's a next time.
The worst thing for the evening was to find out while opening the bags for the new donuts was that one of them had z hairline crack in it... So I'm gunna have to get another one. I'm hoping I can order Tom and have it delivered by mon/tues.
AttakDog
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
On the exhaust systems I have worked on (7) I used my oxy-acetelyne torch and heated the bolts red hot. Then they came right out. I also used alot of anti-seize on re assembly and didn't have a problem the second time. Just be careful to get the allen wrench in good cause with the bolt that hot it will spin in the hex easy. I also changed some of the bolts to stainless (donut clamp bolts) to see how this works. Seems to be a pretty easy job now that I have done it 12-15 different times.
AttakDog
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Also I don't think a hairline crack will affect the donut. It's not solid just a pressed graphite material. Only my opinion though........
Adreneline Junkie
Newbie
I used an air-hammer with the air adjustment turned down to carefully create a dimple on the shoulder of the bolt head and angled the air hammer tip to get the bolt turning. Works like a charm.
Separating the y-pipe from the exhaust though? Another story, still working on trying to get the two separated......any magically methods out there besides leaving the allen bolts attached to the y-pipes and yanking back on the exhaust pipe?
This pipe is really on there. I'm going out the shop to try removing the flex pipes, bolting down the exhaust can on the back and trying to slide the y-pipes forward. I'm hoping that will work...........
Separating the y-pipe from the exhaust though? Another story, still working on trying to get the two separated......any magically methods out there besides leaving the allen bolts attached to the y-pipes and yanking back on the exhaust pipe?
This pipe is really on there. I'm going out the shop to try removing the flex pipes, bolting down the exhaust can on the back and trying to slide the y-pipes forward. I'm hoping that will work...........
