RTX Meirda
TY 4 Stroke Master
Just bought a used RTX SE with the Fox Float X shocks.
When I hook up the pump and try to release some air with the little button, oil comes out of there and plugs everything up.
Anyone ever seen this?
Is it rebuild time?
The oil has a "greyish" look, not nice and clean.
When I hook up the pump and try to release some air with the little button, oil comes out of there and plugs everything up.
Anyone ever seen this?
Is it rebuild time?
The oil has a "greyish" look, not nice and clean.
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
Yup, rebuild time - unless somebody hit something really hard. There's a chance it may be able to just be "refreshed" if that's the case. There should be no oil in the air chamber normally.
LJ 452
TY 4 Stroke God
Hold up just a minute.
I thought the same thing at first. Here's my take. Baring the fact that as ahicks had mentioned they haven't been abused.
The air chamber is supposed to be filled with 15mL of Fox Float Fluid. This fluid is blue in color and since the chamber is charged with air (often atmospheric) it contains a high amount of moisture. This contaminates the oil and ultimately turns it a greyish color.
Now here is why this is new. The Float X's are mounted upside down from the std Float position. This puts the air chamber on the bottom, also the air valve (schrader) is basically at the lowest point of the shock. Because of this, the Float Oil settles to the bottom and when you open the valve, it exists with the air.
Now, given you don't know the history of the shocks it may be a good idea to rebuild anyway. What you should do regardless is air them down, remove the air sleeve, clean, lubricate the seals, recharge with 15cc or more of Float Fluid and recharge with air. You won't be able to completely remove the air sleeve as the end cap will prevent it. However get the moisture out, is can cause corrosion on the shaft and ruin it. With the air sleeve out/down, you should be able to compress the shaft side and see if the shock is blown, it should raise on it's own.
A hint, I use the shock nitrogen bottle, but if you don't have one, remove the air (spring air), take it to the local tire shop and ask if they can fill it with nitrogen. If possible compress and bleed as much air out as possible, have them put 100psi or as much as they can. This should help keep the shock more consistent in temp swings, and will reduce the amount of moisture in the shock to begin with.
I thought the same thing at first. Here's my take. Baring the fact that as ahicks had mentioned they haven't been abused.
The air chamber is supposed to be filled with 15mL of Fox Float Fluid. This fluid is blue in color and since the chamber is charged with air (often atmospheric) it contains a high amount of moisture. This contaminates the oil and ultimately turns it a greyish color.
Now here is why this is new. The Float X's are mounted upside down from the std Float position. This puts the air chamber on the bottom, also the air valve (schrader) is basically at the lowest point of the shock. Because of this, the Float Oil settles to the bottom and when you open the valve, it exists with the air.
Now, given you don't know the history of the shocks it may be a good idea to rebuild anyway. What you should do regardless is air them down, remove the air sleeve, clean, lubricate the seals, recharge with 15cc or more of Float Fluid and recharge with air. You won't be able to completely remove the air sleeve as the end cap will prevent it. However get the moisture out, is can cause corrosion on the shaft and ruin it. With the air sleeve out/down, you should be able to compress the shaft side and see if the shock is blown, it should raise on it's own.
A hint, I use the shock nitrogen bottle, but if you don't have one, remove the air (spring air), take it to the local tire shop and ask if they can fill it with nitrogen. If possible compress and bleed as much air out as possible, have them put 100psi or as much as they can. This should help keep the shock more consistent in temp swings, and will reduce the amount of moisture in the shock to begin with.
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
I agree on all counts but one, and that's the assumption that regular air is full of moisture and/or problematic. That's all ok in theory, but in practice it just doesn't prove out. Winter air is actually pretty darn dry... That's as far as I'll take the argument. Do as you like.
I wasn't thinking of the X being run inverted, so what LJ says there is true as well. If you're like me though, that initial cahrge of oil isn't going to be around long as I'm always dinking with my air pressure. I don't know how you would ever drop your pressure without dumping the majority of that initial 15cc charge. Thinking that's probably occured to Fox as well, and I've never seen any warnings regarding maintaining that oil charge?
So, regarding the initial question, maybe just keep an eye on them for a while? If you're ready to go on a trip or you can't afford the chance the shocks aren't right for some reason, have somebody take a look at them. Thinking too if both do the same thing, the chances of having 2 blown shocks are not real good... My opinion, FWIW
I wasn't thinking of the X being run inverted, so what LJ says there is true as well. If you're like me though, that initial cahrge of oil isn't going to be around long as I'm always dinking with my air pressure. I don't know how you would ever drop your pressure without dumping the majority of that initial 15cc charge. Thinking that's probably occured to Fox as well, and I've never seen any warnings regarding maintaining that oil charge?
So, regarding the initial question, maybe just keep an eye on them for a while? If you're ready to go on a trip or you can't afford the chance the shocks aren't right for some reason, have somebody take a look at them. Thinking too if both do the same thing, the chances of having 2 blown shocks are not real good... My opinion, FWIW
LJ 452 said:
RTX Meirda
TY 4 Stroke Master
Thanks guys!
I have the regular floats on my Apex RTX and they have been excellent.
This SE has low miles and the blue/grey oil had me concerned since I hadn't seen this before.
I will ride the sled locally before any big trips just in case.
I have the regular floats on my Apex RTX and they have been excellent.
This SE has low miles and the blue/grey oil had me concerned since I hadn't seen this before.
I will ride the sled locally before any big trips just in case.
LJ 452
TY 4 Stroke God
The Air sleeve maintenance is in the Fox Float manual that should have come with the sled also it's on their website. If you are concerned about the shocks, just pull the air sleeves and see it the shock compresses and rebounds smoothly without any air bubbles.
Ahicks, I agree that the winter air is low in moisture, however I just figure every little bit helps. Moisture content is dependent on a lot of factors other than season. Heated garages can have near 80% R.H. especially with a sled thawing out in it.
I think if you ride the sled a bit and the shock is cycled, the oil is displaced in the air chamber and thus you won't have as much exit through the valve. Either way there should be enough left in there to provide enough lubrication for the wiper and air seal.
Ahicks, I agree that the winter air is low in moisture, however I just figure every little bit helps. Moisture content is dependent on a lot of factors other than season. Heated garages can have near 80% R.H. especially with a sled thawing out in it.
I think if you ride the sled a bit and the shock is cycled, the oil is displaced in the air chamber and thus you won't have as much exit through the valve. Either way there should be enough left in there to provide enough lubrication for the wiper and air seal.
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
LJ, I agree every little bit helps. Where I go my seperate way is when somebody insists that air won't work. It does. I've never heard of anyone freezing up a shock or having any moisture related problems with the Fox, or the Ryde FX Air 2.0
We're on the same page regarding that initial oil charge as well...
We're on the same page regarding that initial oil charge as well...
LJ 452
TY 4 Stroke God
Yup, Air (atmospheric) will work fine, certainly didn't intend it to come across as nitrogen being a requirement. It's more just something I do as I have the tank available, and I typically don't change my pressures often. If I do it's at home on the track, so again, easy access to the nitrogen.
The only reason I bring it up is that I had recently rebuilt a set of Floats that had 2 seasons on them. There was a surprising amount of moisture in the air chamber, nothing was damaged but it was just a bit startling at first. Seals were in tact and the shock had held it's pressure for months. That is why I recommended cleaning and oiling, no tools needed and the only thing you'll have to buy is oil.
The only reason I bring it up is that I had recently rebuilt a set of Floats that had 2 seasons on them. There was a surprising amount of moisture in the air chamber, nothing was damaged but it was just a bit startling at first. Seals were in tact and the shock had held it's pressure for months. That is why I recommended cleaning and oiling, no tools needed and the only thing you'll have to buy is oil.
