number1kyster
TY 4 Stroke God
My Dad offered to help with my first service. We drained the oils and realized that my Dad didn't have any yamalube gear oil. The only oil he has is 80/85 Honda gear oil. Will that work for the chaincase?
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/...xTNNJw7lXOioHoDsMD-36TBhvtz2RcmRoCr-cQAvD_BwE
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/...xTNNJw7lXOioHoDsMD-36TBhvtz2RcmRoCr-cQAvD_BwE
74Nitro
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If I remember correctly, the oil Yamaha used in chaincases was 75w, so this would be thicker, but probably ok. For years I used either Yamaha 20w50 engine oil or Shell 15w40 Rotella. I never like how much these companies charged for such a small amount of oil.My Dad offered to help with my first service. We drained the oils and realized that my Dad didn't have any yamalube gear oil. The only oil he has is 80/85 Honda gear oil. Will that work for the chaincase?
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/...xTNNJw7lXOioHoDsMD-36TBhvtz2RcmRoCr-cQAvD_BwE
In my own personal machines sometimes I would use John Deere hydraulic oil which was thinner. I figured if it was god enough for all those gears etc inside a tractor or combine transmission(yea round temps), it was good enough for a chaincase.
ApexXTX/Viper
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Yamaha spec sheets recommend "SAE 75W or 80W API GL-3 with no mention of synthetic so you should be good to go. The "Cat manuals " we all get mention synthetic when when refilling chaincase in the how to portion.The GL-3 classification has been "inactive" since the 90's. I believe all 75W90 synthetic gear oils are classified as GL-5. The Yamalube Chaincase oil now says "synthetic" (whereas in previous years it didn't but they still claimed it was) and is a 75W weight. I've been using MotoMaster 75W90 synthetic gear lube (Canadian Tire) for years with no problems in 3 Apex's, 3 Vectors, 2 Vipers, 1 Sidewinder and now will use in SRX. I see you're in the states so you can probably get Mobile One 75W90 (or other name brand) in a quart jug for roughly the same price as the 8 oz Yamaha bottle. Any 75W90 synthetic gear oil will greatly exceed Yamaha's specs and cover Cat's synthetic recommendation. With Yamaha's 250 ml (8 oz) bottles so you will need 1-1/2 bottles to meet the 355 ml (12 oz) capacity. That is why I buy 1 litre (quart) bottles that almost cover 3 changes at way less than 1/2 price.
SaskAttack
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Mobile One 75W90 works for me, and in every thing else I drive.
number1kyster
TY 4 Stroke God
Here is the description for the oil he had. We ended up putting it in the sled. Now I'm wondering if I should drain it and put something else in.
- HP Trans Oil offers ultra-high film strength and shear stability to minimize transmission wear, while its high thermal stability prevents foaming and premature oil breakdown.
- Special anti-friction additives allow smoother shifting, while minimizing drag and power loss. Anti-shear additives increase clutch life, reducing clutch slippage.
ApexXTX/Viper
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You meet the 80W requirement and I'm assuming a GL-4 or 5 rating (because GL-3 is mostly not used anymore) so you've got the Yamaha spec sheet side covered but maybe not the synthetic portion as mentioned in the manual. If it were me, I'd drain and put in a 75W90 synthetic (as mentioned in above threads) just for peace of mind and to Cover Your A (keep receipts). If you decide to drain by just loosening any or all of the eleven chaincase bolts without fully removing cover, be careful when re-torquing as the lower bolt threads will get oil on them and will strip easily. Don't ask me how I know!
Yamarus
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With what force should the bolts of the box cover be tightened?
ViperSbite
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74Nitro
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I've seen them strip at the factory spec of 13lbs. Just sayin.With what force should the bolts of the box cover be tightened?
Simplespeed
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I have witnessed every oil under the sun run in chaincase and very few are really a problem. Probably automatic transmission fluid is substituted more than anything else cause it is next to nothing especially if your using used transmission oil… anything that can stay thin when cold, thicker when warm will work.. Its actually works well from testing on high mileage sleds… less wear than some manufacturers recommended oils….
KnappAttack
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2017 Sidewinder LTX-LE
One thing worth noting, when using gear oil, it will be "stinky gear oil" when it vents after a higher speed usage. I used to use gear oil but it smells so bad if your like to run slightly higher speeds. For light trail riding you may never smell it however.
I like the Blue Polaris syntethic chain case oil myself, it shows less wear than anything I've used previously and if you have a leak it will be blue, and it wont smell.
The worst wear I have seen in a snowmobile chain case has been with ATF. Just my findings. I know transfer cases in a 4x4 use it and it, but I've witnessed it first hand in snowmobiles.
I like the Blue Polaris syntethic chain case oil myself, it shows less wear than anything I've used previously and if you have a leak it will be blue, and it wont smell.
The worst wear I have seen in a snowmobile chain case has been with ATF. Just my findings. I know transfer cases in a 4x4 use it and it, but I've witnessed it first hand in snowmobiles.
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