The reason the 24 tooth was faster on top even without full shift out (compared to the 23 or 22), is because the taller gearing requires less shift out for the same final drive ratio. With less shift out, the clutches are closer to the 1:1 ratio, which is the most efficient ratio for transmitting power thru a belt CVT.
For trail riding, you want the tallest gearing you can run while still pulling strongly out of the hole. Once out of the hole, the CVT will automatically settle on the right final drive ratio to keep the sled on its hp peak. The track doesn't know what gear you have in the chaincase - it only "sees" the final combination of gearing, drivers, and clutch ratio. If, on the other hand, you are on the ice with a speed track and 240 needle sharp steel picks, you can afford to gear down because you will have the traction to take advantage of the low primary drive.
What you were saying about the taller gearing requiring less shift out to equal the same gear ratio of a sled with lower gearing makes total sense & I agree %100! This would be why my buddy's sled was faster because although our clutches shifted out the exact same distance, his 2 tooth bigger gear put him at a higher ratio which gave him more top speed than I. Why mine didn't shift out more than his as it technically should have because of the lower gearing is behond me.
I believe that I would be better off going up to a 23 or 24 because I can afford to loose a bit off the bottom because without running picks the sled just digs holes anyway, they definitely do not lack bottom end power,lol!!
I read somewhere that gearing taller would decrease the mileage, does that make sense?
Thanks,
Darren