Got my RX-1, have some concerns

RX-Dave

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Allright, picked up my 05' RX-1ER Limited yesterday, and I was looking somethings over when I got it home. I was having once heck of a time getting it to move from the trailer to the garage, and the belt was slipping quite severely. I saw once in the garage, that the belt was riding down in the 2ndary, about .150" from the top of the clutch.

I removed the clutch, to reveal that there was one shim under the 3 adjuster bolts, so I inserted another washer under each. The clutch is now adjust to the point where the track just barely turns when off the ground, but when you rev up the engine, and let the sled de-accel the belt still sits about .150 under the top of the clutch. Rev it up and drag the brake, and it will shift the belt all the ay up the clutch.

I am concerned about alignment. I think I read somewhere that the RX chassis is un-adjustable for center to center distance. Is this true? Is there a good center to center RX-1 tool on the market?
 
C-C isn't adjustable, but if alignment is off (and it IS adjustable) it will affect C-C.

What you describe with the secondary is pretty much how any Yamaha I've ever seen comes out of the box.
 
Everything you explain is normal. With the engine braking, that belt has a hard time going all the way to the top of the secondary when your moving slow. To check proper belt height, take the secondary off, and then put your belt into the secondary, check the measurement of how high the belt is above the secondary. If memory serves me right, the variance is .015-.025. It you get much higher, the belt will be too tight and it will run on the center bushing of the primary...BBY
 
Not sure where you are, but in no snow conditions new carbides can dig into about anything and the sled will be a b!tch to move. And your track is not scuffed in and may still have some silicone mold release on it. At first I tried to move mine with the parking brake still on :oops: LOL
 
Belt should ride 1/2mm (.019") to 1.5mm (.059") out of secondary. Center-to-Center should be 267mm (10.51") to 270mm (10.63"). Hope this helps.
 
Mine acted exactly the same - very hard to get it to move, without really revving it up and slightly smoking the belt.

I checked things over and came to the conclusion it is normal with the setup.

One thing that makes this worse is these RX-1s have a very smooth clutch engagement. Instead of the primary slamming in on the belt fairly quickly and moderately hard at a certain RPM (like all of my previous Polaris sleds), it smoothly squeezes the belt.

If you don't get on the throttle hard enough and fast enough, it will heat up the belt very fast.

On snow, the sled will move much more easily so this shouldn't be a problem.

My center to center is on the high end, but within spec, my offset is right where it should be, and my belt sits about 1/2 mm out of the secondary (if I run it on a stand and let it roll to a stop, or spin the track by hand - driving it on pavement it sits in the secondary a little).

There is also probably a little bit of anti-corrostion fluid on the clutches still. I noticed the metal on my sled was covered in some sort of spray on oil when we opened it up from the crate. There's likely a little on the clutch too.
 
your belt height concerns have already been answered. the center to center is adjustable, but shouldent be out on a new sled. you can get good alignment tools from maximum perf. or bender and to get the best performance and belt life they are a good investment.
 
My new RX also is reluctant to move at the rpm's of the 2 stroker. Kinda makes you wonder if it really does wieght a ton. Kinda like riding a sled fort he first time
 
Loosten the front straps and set for more weight transfer.....at least this way, the sled wants to take weight off the front when you are trying to move.
 
Well,
I was using the stock clutch specs on TY for the 2005 sleds, and it says for the 2ndary tension, that it should be 60 degrees. I assume this corresponded with the 3 (30 deg), 6 (60 deg), and 9(90 deg) markings on the helix.

I do not think the dealer did a thing other than bolt the handlebars and windshield on. So I changed it to the 6 mark (more tension) and this helped emensly. I will put it back in the 3 when the snow flies, this is just to help get things around for now.
 
The secondary has 4 marks on the helix (0,3,6,9) and also 3 locations on the secondary itself if you look under where the spring goes (labeled 1,2,3). If you put the sled in #'s 3+3=60, 6+1=70, etc. If you put it on the 6 in the helix and left it in the 3 hole in the secondary you're now set at 90*. Always remember to rotate helix clockwise to the closest posts when reinstalling the helix. When tightening the helix tighten the three nuts at the same time to avoid binding. Also when the helix ramps come close to the buttons it's best to rotate the sheaves some to avoid the helix ramps from digging into the buttons.


Allen
 


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