hauck fuel controller

[hypertxer]

does anyone know what settings i use for my mods i have a hauck pipe cr10ek plugs ram air lid stage 1 ulmer clutch and a 23 tooth gear

 

[JJWickenhauser]

I have no idea. I've asked to get a book or sheet explaining the workings of the fuel accelerator in aplications such as that and I haven't heard anything from them. Starting to feel like I'm being ignored.

more as this situation developes

stay tuned

Justin

 

[hypertxer]

ya i just emailed them well c if they write back huh

 

[1CrazySledder]

Email is no good. they get slammed, it would be better to just call. Ask for Pat or Titus. I have had great customer service from those two.

 

[RTX DUDE]

seetings

You will only be guessing until you get a wideband 02. I bought one on e-bay for $250.00, cheap insurance.

 

[SledFreak]

The hauck does not remove fuel... It only adds fuel.

 

[ATTAKED]

This is from the sheet included with the box:

Operation and Tuning
With the sled idling you should see #1 Green LED light on. To adjust the colors just push the mode button real fast. The color will cycle from Green to Yellow, Red, Yellow/Blue, and Red Blue. Once you get the color that you want you can move the light, the farther to the right you go the more fuel you are adding to that color.
Programming the LED’s
If the 2nd light is on then you are in setting 2. If 2 lights are on then you are ½ way. Example: 2nd and 3rd lights equals setting 2 ½. 4th and 5th lights equal setting 4 ½. To adjust the next color just tap the mode button, using the + or – sign to get your desired setting.
Mode 1- GREEN – Idle/Cruise Mixture level.
Mode 2- YELLOW – Needle Enrichment
Mode 3- RED – Main Jet
Mode 5- Yellow/Blue – Accelerator Pump, Adjust to riding (set at 2 or 3 for Hard acceleration, 1.5, 2 for those light on the throttle)
Mode 6- Red/Blue - Altitude Compensation set at 1 for sea level, aprox. 4-5 for 10,000 ft.

Radical changes to the accelerator settings can cause the sled to run rich. You can always go back to stock when all the colors are on the #1 setting. You mainly use the first three colors. For the accelerator to recognize that you are making a change, you must move the green light, even if you move it and then put it right back where it was.

GHT-R Pipe, with stock air box
Green 2nd light
Yellow 3rd light
Red 2nd light
Yellow/Blue 2nd light
Red/Blue 1st light


Pipe with K&N Filters
Green 2nd light
Yellow 3rd light
Red 6th or 7th light
Yellow/Blue 2nd light
Red/ Blue 1st light


I have found my sled to run better with small adjustments to the red light! I hope this helps!

 

[hypertxer]

pat emailed me back and said red on 4 or 5 so i set it on 4

 

[TurboTime]

hypertxer:

I just went through this "testing" process a few weeks ago. Have the same mods.

I ended up with Red setting @ 3. She was running very rich at the higher settings, especially @ Low and Mid. I have an airbox mod with the same specs as ulmer.
Settings are:
2
3
3
3
1

She is dialed in nicely. Added weights to the tips because I was pushing 11100 rpms and hitting the rev lim.

 

[Yamadog]

I am running one also with a Hauck stroked 1100 cc Apex motor, gyt-r-dun pipe, gyt filter kit and heel clicker 2 clutch kit, 96 studs down the middle and I can't get over 9600 rpms on a long run.

I have played with all the settings on the accelerator and started woring with the clutch weights but have not gotten the RPM's I think I should. She snaps to close to 10K off the line but slides back after launch. I can dust by 10 to 20 lengths a piped, clutched and studded 07 Attack but have trouble with a stock Apex with no studs.

 

[jwifferdill]

The stock Apex runs that much stronger than the piped, clutched, studded Attak?

 

[pdrmike]

The stock Apex runs that much stronger than the piped, clutched, studded Attak?

Not quite. Something must be wrong with the Attak you are racing. I feel my Attak runs stronger than most of the Apex's i've played with. Better hole shot on snow! (Ice, you've got me) my 2 cents.

 

[RJH]

. She snaps to close to 10K off the line but slides back after launch. .

Give the secondary more tension - for a test. Can't really clutch on-line - but try that.

 

[Yamadog]

[Give the secondary more tension - for a test. Can't really clutch on-line - but try that.[/quote]

Thanks RJH I'll look into it. I would have to change the spring holes because I originally installed the spring in the factory holes 3 & 3 and then over wound the spring 1/3 turn and the spring binds. I talked to the Heel clicker guys & I am running the recommended setup. The funny thing is that I ran the same spring setup with less weights in the arms in my RX-1 motor before it blew and it ran to 10,200 and crept up to 10,5 ish. This motor makes supposedly 50 more HP and seems to drop off. as it shifts up.

I will say that you can feel the shift points as the thing climbs and the shift at about 92 MPH will pull you off the bars.