RX-Dave
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Contimplating this move for the RX-1. Wanted to know to all the clutching folks, the pros and cons? I am concerned of breaking down a perfectly good clutch. Is there a reliability issue with the Hauck Speed Sheeve?
DO NOT BUY A HAUCK SPEED SHEEVE!!!!!!!!!!!!
RX-Dave
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Out of curiosity JTS, why? Durability or performance?
I can get my primary machined to allow it to close all the way, just wondered at what level folks are overdriving the clutches.
I allready cut my helix to allow more #*$&@ out.
I can get my primary machined to allow it to close all the way, just wondered at what level folks are overdriving the clutches.
I allready cut my helix to allow more #*$&@ out.
LazyBastard
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Its a different angle, so clutch alignment is impossible, and the belt will never sit flat on it.
Send your clutches to Freddie at ECP. He will modify your existing clutches for the "overdrive". 

The Sppeed sheeve is a belt eater. It's a really silly idea. why would you run 2 different angle sheeves? It's just a bad idea. Plus your relly suppose to move you motor back to get he extra lenght out of the belt but you can't do that on the RX-1.
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i had 4000 miles on my speed sheave/team roller secondary set up (on one yamaha belt)with about 2000 miles the year before that with no problems "except" getting the correct shiftout rpm back after installing sheave,lost 800rpm had to adjust for that but no problems since and sled works real good
What is the concept with machining the primary to achieve full shift out? How much material do you take off? How do you cut a Dalton helix without screwing up the angle?
LazyBastard
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Take the spring out of your primary and close it fully. See where the two faces touch? Thats where you cut. How much? How far do you want to overdrive? Don't let the belt ride beyond the faces.
Dalton helixes are already overdrive. If you want to overdrive further, someone on this forum mentioned that you just stick in a spacer (washers) around the bolts to hold the helix out a little further.
Dalton helixes are already overdrive. If you want to overdrive further, someone on this forum mentioned that you just stick in a spacer (washers) around the bolts to hold the helix out a little further.
RX-Dave
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lazyb - I researched the helix cut quite a bit before I did mine. I cut my helix .090" AND I raised the helix .050" with shims. See, if you just cut the helix, the soring will bottom out on itself, in only .035" beyond stock. Shiming the helix allong with cutting it, give extra room for the spring before it bottoms. Yes, it will decrease side pressure, but I am going up to the white spring anyways.
That is an interesting idea with putting washers on there. Can anyone attest that it actually works, and I can't imagine you use a very thick washer?
I will see how far my primary shifts out then figure out if I want to cut it or not. Do the differences actually show?
I will see how far my primary shifts out then figure out if I want to cut it or not. Do the differences actually show?
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