Heelclicker versus Pro-Line

Woodysattack

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Final testing done. Pro-line setup has been very strong,spent two winters fine tuning with changes I made both years. But today was the test,could it beat the heelclicker setup. Running the heelclicker setup as per Turks instructions no fine tuning for my sled and mods it simply crushed my tuned pro-line setup. Here are the results on a 1000 ft hardpacked track.
Pro-line

300ft 4.59 4.57
600ft 7.14 7.12
1000 10.09 10.05
Speed on odo 108

Heelclicker

300ft 4.39 4.38
600ft 6.87 6.87
1000 9.76 9.78
Speed 109

Both felt really strong and could not feel the difference by seat of the pants which proves to me the theory never trust your butt feeling. Figuring ft. per second this was about a 3 sled length gain in a 1000 ft. This is a big gain. Both setups both clutches were just luke warm. Also this was perfect testing conditions. Other mods are 22/40 gearing,Ulmer airbox mod along with Fix ram air which helped gain 4 to 5 hundreths of a second in the first 300 ft. Pod set at plus 5. 270 studs all outside bands studded. Transfer set at max. These are my results with my sled setup as is. In closing Pro-line kit is very good and John was a tremendous help. You can,t go wrong with either kit. Just heelcliker performed better on the way my sled is setup. Thanks to turk for his info and if anybody has any Questions feel free to ask. Thanks Woodysattack
 
heelclickers

Those are some impressive numbers
DC5 I think he is running the drag & fly weights.
 
I saw some real amazing gains vs a few other kits in side by side race testing. I really saw big gains in an apex & nytro.I wish randy would make some 80 gram base Yamaha dnflies for us turbo guys.
The 2 speeds are fine but imo these work a little better plus you don,t need to change out your helix in a stock sled.
 
What did you run for secondary setup??
 
great job woody...

what rpms did you see?
was it the 3.2/5.2/0.0/3.2?
 
Drag and fly

Dragnfly weights stock secondary. Pulling about 10850 at end of 1000 ft. I still have to talk to Turk and see if I should be running lower R's.
 
I thought optimal was 10,500-10,700...
sound like what .5-1.0 gram more in the overdrive

what track are you running?
 
sj said:
I thought optimal was 10,500-10,700...
sound like what .5-1.0 gram more in the overdrive

what track are you running?

10-500-10,800 is optimal for a stock motor with no fuel and ignition controllers. At 10,900-11,100 it starts pulling back timing.

Now if you have a PCIII/ignition controller from Ulmer where he actually advances timing from 10,800-11250 3 degrees to help net you a higher top end number via running off RPM
 


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