Help with overheating

Boston RX1

TY 4 Stroke Master
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I think I need to burp my system. I have the sled on a snowbank facing uphill, can I just start it with the cap off and let it run or do I need to head down hill and remove the plug on the rear heat exchanger?
 
DaveyBoy said:
Boston (Dana right) I would aim down hill or jack back up and take out rear plug watch out it will piss out and get ya wet lol Thats the bets way to get the air out IMO

Davey boy is right ,unless you have the rear cooler,then you can pull it up the hill and pull drain plug. :D
 
Dana,

Front up in snowbank, cap off worked for me and numerous others.

It is the lazy mans way as well.

Keep checking your exchangers while you are doing this.

Chances are , if they are all hot , and you have some antifreeze in the resevoir, the air bubbles have stopped, you are likely good to go.

However, Your post begs the question, How did your sled get this way?
[Needing to be burped]

All the best,

Dave
 

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I had a large rear heat exchanger installed over the summer. I tried what you suggested in the radiator cap. All three exchangers are warm, not hot. We have very very hard conditions with a dusting of snow. I feel it is lack of snow at this point. I have a temp gauge installed and it read 210 and stayed there. I am hoping with good snow it will run well under 200.
 
Dana,

Was the guage reading 210 when the exchangers were only warm?

Did the idiot lite come on?

What about the fourth exchanger .[ front, rear and running boards ] how hot was it?

Have you had your new guage checked. One of the guys here had a bad one. Most as you know are seeing 165 or so.

Maybe i should send you back the scratchers you sent me.

Dave
 
Hey Boston Rx1, my 03 ran 210 as well on the autometer gauge. I checked the coolant and sure enough it was 100% antifreeze. So I fixed that problem and still at 210. I pulled my drain plug to let any air out. What I found to be the problem was the ground that I had soldered on to the T for the temp sensor. I took the ground off and now it runs 170-190. I do not have a rear heat exchanger either. I also took a turkey thermometer and checked the coolant in the over flow and it also read 170. Try that trick first and then you will know exactly what your coolant temp is.
 
mctr7, I never grounded my T when installing the Phantom temp gauge as others had done. This past weekend riding in the UP, my temp gauage never went past the 150 mark.
 
Thanks for the replys. My four H-E were warm, but not boiling hot. The snow I kicked onto the running boards took its time to melt. The conditions were no loose snow and 8" of rock solid snow/ice. I have to believe at this point that it is due to lack of snow. We are supposed to get 2-4" today and more over the weekend. I have also ordered some Water Wetter to try. I will post more after further testing. My idiot light never came on and the highest temps I saw was a spike to 220 and then it stayed around 210. This is still to hot for my liking. As far as the ground wire, I did not think the gauge would run without the ground. I will try the Turkey thermometer, but I think I should start with the cap off, rather than taking the cap off once it is hot. Am I correct?
 
The sensor must be grounded to complete the electrical circuit for the electrical temp. gauge to work properly. If a ground wire is not connected than there is a high resistance path from the sensor to ground and it will not register the proper temp.. If you look at the installation instructions for the Autometer phantom temp. gauge it clearly states the sensor must be grounded. It says for engine and transmission applications the sensor will be automatically grounded since the engine block is grounded. In most of the ways I have seen the sensors installed on our RX1's, the sensor is electrically isolated between 2 pieces of rubber hose.
 
What robrx1 said. Any body else with this conclusion?? OR not?
 


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