How can I gain approx 200 RPM easily?

[craze1cars]

I'd like to up my top RPMS by about 200 on my 07 Attak. No other changes desired for now. I know theoretically this means I need to either remove weight from the primary, or move the weight that's in there closer to the axis of rotation (ala Doo's TRA clicker adjusters.) But I've never worked on a Yamaha clutch before so I don't know how. I understand there are rivets in there that likely provide this weight? So I presume I need to drill out some rivets and/or replace them with some lighter ones? If yes, for my desired 200 rpm increase, how many, what part numbers, what weights, etc....and I assume this can be done on the sled...or do I need a puller? Current clutch setup is purely stock.

A little guidance would be greatly appreciated. And a picture would be worth 1000 words if one is posted somewhere or easy to put up.

Thanks much!

 

[Turk]

Tell ya a secret that works great. Remove the inner rivet & the sled really really wakes up down low & mid. If you have 1000 miles you should be seeing 10,700 on the tach & that,s where u wanna be. I removed my inner rivet & ground down the middle rivet in my Attak & holy schnikee; well just try it!

 

[Shootinstick]

When you remove the inner rivet, are you referring to the tip or the heel end? Any idea what your finished weight is in grams and are you using stock springs and helix?

Jim

 

[craze1cars]

I presume inner would be the heel end, but in case I'm assuming wrong, please clarify.

Thanks very much Turk....that's the sort of thing I'm looking for. Do you have a memory of how many RPM's that inner rivet removal gained for you? I don't want to over-shoot my 200 RPM goal.

I have over 1700 miles so it's fully broken in, and it generally pulls about 10,500 to 10,600 in most conditions. I think maybe my 1.5 inch paddle track is holding it back just a teeny bit. So I want to get that up just a touch to 10,700/10,800 under the assumption it will wake things up like you experienced.

And...can I get to these rivets with the clutch still installed on the sled? Or will I need to pull the clutch to do this?

I guess the long and short of it is this...I pretty well understand the rivet thing for the most part and I know the 3 positions, but what I don't have experience with is how dramatic a rivet removal/addition/relocation effects the RPMS on these sleds. On my Doos I know I could count on a TRA clicker position giving or taking about 175 RPMs, and a given number of grams of pin weight would likewise yield a given number of RPMS.

But this will be my first experiment with Yami clutching so I have no baseline of knowledge. So what kind of RPMs do these rivets take or give in their various positions? Is this info spelled out in a service manual? Maybe I should invest in one...

Thanks again. And if others have experience or thoughts on this, please share.

 

[Turk]

The inner rivet is the inner rivet; can,t explain any better. There are 3 holes in thee weights for the rivets to mount inner; mid & tip(outside) I use a grinder & grind the rivet right down to the weight & it punches out pretty easily. weights must be removed from the primary.

 

[RacerDave]

Turk, but what is the "typical" rpm gain from removing the inner rivet? This is a 4.5 gram rivet, correct?

 

[SharkAttak]

get some super tips 60g weights they are adjustable

 

[BADSLED]

"TURK" What is the exact rpm's gain with the inner rivit removed and middle one ground??

 

[Equalizer]

Tell ya a secret that works great. Remove the inner rivet & the sled really really wakes up down low & mid. If you have 1000 miles you should be seeing 10,700 on the tach & that,s where u wanna be. I removed my inner rivet & ground down the middle rivet in my Attak & holy schnikee; well just try it!

Would this work on an 05' RX1? It's all stock, when accelerating the rpm's come up and sit at 10,000 and I'm thinking it should be a littler higher. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!