Apex2006RTX
Extreme
Just looking to remove only the shock from a 2006 Apex RTX. It has the dial on the side. In the FAQ it shows removing the full suspension only.
LJ 452
TY 4 Stroke God
1: Write down R.A. position if you are happy with it.
2: Turn R.A. all the way to "Hard". This is just to make synchronizing the dial to the shock easier if needed.
3: Remove rear transfer rod bolt.
4: Raise rear of sled to relieve load on shock.
5: Remove three bolts (5mm) from R.A. adjuster on tunnel.
6: Remove the two shock bolts from the suspension.
7: Carefully remove the cable from the holder bracket in the rear suspension.
8: Remove the shock from underneath the sled.
This is how I would do it, you can unhook the cable right at the shock but I feel the risk of dirt other junk getting in there isn't worth it. Also I have huge hands and I can't get my fingers in there to loosen or tighten it back up. This method will also make synchronizing the dial to the shock easier. If you are sending the shock out for a revalve/rebuild I would recheck the sycro. when the shock is returned to you. Basically hook the dial to it and turn it all the way to hard, then remove the cable, turn the dial to soft, reattach the cable the try to turn the knob to hard again. Once you have verified that the shock is at full hard, remove the cable, turn the knob to full hard and reattach the cable. Then your good to install the shock. Just reverse the prossess to install, make sure to install the rear bolt back on the transfer rod. And use locktite (blue) on the all nuts and bolts.
Hope this helps.
2: Turn R.A. all the way to "Hard". This is just to make synchronizing the dial to the shock easier if needed.
3: Remove rear transfer rod bolt.
4: Raise rear of sled to relieve load on shock.
5: Remove three bolts (5mm) from R.A. adjuster on tunnel.
6: Remove the two shock bolts from the suspension.
7: Carefully remove the cable from the holder bracket in the rear suspension.
8: Remove the shock from underneath the sled.
This is how I would do it, you can unhook the cable right at the shock but I feel the risk of dirt other junk getting in there isn't worth it. Also I have huge hands and I can't get my fingers in there to loosen or tighten it back up. This method will also make synchronizing the dial to the shock easier. If you are sending the shock out for a revalve/rebuild I would recheck the sycro. when the shock is returned to you. Basically hook the dial to it and turn it all the way to hard, then remove the cable, turn the dial to soft, reattach the cable the try to turn the knob to hard again. Once you have verified that the shock is at full hard, remove the cable, turn the knob to full hard and reattach the cable. Then your good to install the shock. Just reverse the prossess to install, make sure to install the rear bolt back on the transfer rod. And use locktite (blue) on the all nuts and bolts.
Hope this helps.
Apex2006RTX
Extreme
How do you release the Spring from the shock once it is compressed?
LJ 452
TY 4 Stroke God
Once you have the spring compressed (in a safe way hopefully) you have two options, one remove the spring retainer from the rod side. This would be done by pushing down and pulling it out through the slot milled in cup. Then release the spring tension and remove the spring from the body, carefull not to damage the threads on the R.A. port. Which by the way the cable should be removed for this if it hasn't already been. Option to is to slide the cam adjuster down the shock body (toward the shaft end) untill the C-clip is visible. Remove the C-clip and slide the cam adjuster off the shock body. I would avoid the second option unless you have it compressed with some crazy method and can't get it the other way. Just too much of your fingers in the kill zone while the shock is under major compression. Which brings my to the disclaimer, make no mistake about it even though the shock may bottom out easy it will be under huge amounts of load while doing this and if it should let go, it will hurt you in a very bad way if you are in it's path so use pliers or other tools to remove the holders just in case. You wouldn't want to loose your throttle finger.
Hope this helps
Hope this helps
