I feel like a dummy...need help with front spring preload

[craze1cars]

07 standard Attak, just familiarizing myself with all possible adjustments as this is my first Yamaha since the early 70's...and I'm baffled by front preload adjustment. Looks like the front spring preload can be adjusted by spinning the big round nut-looking thing at the top of the spring up or down the fat threaded shaft, right? Pretty standard stuff looks just like my Doo's. But no matter how hard I crank on these things with the provided tool(s) in the kit, they won't budge. Almost looks like there may be two moving sleeves up there that maybe are locked together? But I turned both in opposite directions to see if they'd pop free from each other and still nothing gives.

Am I doing something wrong?...I fear cranking on 'em any harder for fear of breaking something (like my fingers!) Help a dummy out, please...

Thanks!

 

[Iceman57]

Yes there are two adjusting nuts tightened together on the front shocks. You can use the wrenches in the tool kit to loosen them.

 

[craze1cars]

That's what it looked like, but MAN they must be tight. Guess I'll try breaking them loose again...maybe if I unload the springs by raising the front of the sled it'll help a bit...

Thanks.

 

[actionjack]

Watch out for scratching the A arm when you break it loose. That tool kinda sucks!

 

[LJ 452]

If all else fails you can use a large flat head screwdriver and tap or whail which ever you prefer, on one of the lock rings to break it free. It's sounds similar to the transfer nut which was a pain for many to break free. Once you get the two rings apart you mak want to apply a small amount of anti sieze (for aluminum) to the surfaces were the two contact each other. Aluminum has a way of oxidizing to itself and creating quite a bond. Just a small amount should do the trick and allow you to do your tuning with out a hammer and a driver.

 

[snowbeast]

Yes you need a flat round punch and hammer to break them apart,than raise the front end off the ground and measure with a tape to see where they are stock,now you can make the spring smaller or longer,to either release preload or to tighten preload,tightening preload will raqise the center line of your sled and handling will suffer,lowering the front will allow your sled to squat some and slid thru the corner better,but your transfer rod adjustment will make a bigger differance than ski spring preload. If you adjust alot of transfer out it will allow the rear end to slid thru the turn better,but it is difficult at best with the standars 1.25 ripsaw track,as it bites so well,and add the extra length of the 136 if you have an attak like i did last year,and its almost impossible to get it to lay down thru a turn under hard driving.

 

[craze1cars]

Thanks for the hammer/punch trick. Worked fine but MAN oh MAN were those suckers tight. Them little Chinamen on the assembly line must have Popeye forearms!!! I won't make any adjustments until after I ride so I get a good baseline, but at least now adjustments are possible. I appreciate the tips from all, and they are now REASONABLY tightened so I can actually do trailside adjustments when the mood strikes.