I got an idea, Need your input....

[RX1-er-2005]

I'm seriously thinking of opening my 3rd windows on my 05 RX1 121" track, I was looking at the SLP wear pads but have 2nd doubts.

Last night after going threw a Snomobile parts cataloge I got to the stud section and I got this idea going in my head...this is wear I need your advice guy's.

How about if I installed a STUD in the 3rd window with the spike ground off, the head would act as a wear pad! if I need more height on stud head just shim it with a washer between the track & stud, I think this would work better than SLP and more durable???

Just a off season crazy idea! but I think it would actually work.

 

[yamrx1]

I opened the windows on my 04 mtn 151" because of premature hyfax wear and had no more hyfax wear problem.Installing a stud like you are talking about sounds like it should work also.My 2 cents

 

[pat the rat]

sounds like a good idea . i installed the anti wear on my warrior and it works great,no more pre-mature hyfax wear. make sure to smoothen out the head of the stud so it slides good. just one thing,studding the outside of the track usually puts more stress and is more prone to tear up

 

[pro116]

studs

The studs will hit your tunnel protectors if you put them in the windows unless you move one of the protectors in the center of the tunnel and don't stud it.Lot's of guys have had good luck with the slp anti wear pads on this site.

 

[Mongo 1]

That was basically what hooker plates were, small plates that you welded to the track clips to accepted t-nut style studs. They proved to be very aggressive because all of the weight was centered on the studs, (no stud deflection), however they were hard on tracks because the welding weakened the fiberglass rods. It was used for racing only, and has been replaced by more efficient ways of studding. You could do it but it but it is really not worth it.

 

[suprfst]

RX1-er-2005
a buddy had the same idea ,the woodys are the most rounded that ive seen and should work best.just cut the stud off as you mentioned in your post.

I went with a fully clipped track much less resistence.

Also another buddy cut the windows open with a roto zip and just installed more clips he said it was very easy.

 

[Mongo 1]

I think he was thinking that the studs under the slides would give him more bite, which they would, but that is not worth the effort on a trail sled.

 

[welterracer]

I put the SLP wear pads on my apex... It greatly reduced the hyfax wear..

It however didnt give me any top end speed like others have said it does..

From what ive been told though, you have to keep an eye on them because they wear down and could get so thin they pull threw!

 

[Len Todd]

Seems like on acceleration studs would tend to tip a bit and cut into the hyfax. Even if they were short, they would get traction. They would tend to tip in the better of the two possible directions, however, they would tend to or at least try to tip. Also, my past studs did not have smooth heads. They had rings cast in the top of the head. I suspect that the ones with rings could shave off the hyfax fairly quickly.

Shims to get the studs' heads up would add weight and could preclude the stud from getting the proper grip on the track. This could compound the potential for tipping.

My Ice Ripper track has the thrid window out. I went through hyfax just about twice as fast as with the stock track (i.e. third window in). It could be the conditions were different. Then again, the conditions did not seem that much different. I am thinking that the closed window may help keep the snow and water in there better.

 

[BURMAD69]

I opened the windows on my 03 and added the extra clips with external drivers, Man what a difference, you can run the track so much looser it makes the sled way faster, Mine will run 125 on radar consistanly, theres been a few other things done (no engine work) just add on's and adjustments. Pisses my brother off cause my 03 will walk on his Apex.

 

[Tork]

I agree with Welter. while not as good as a fully clipped track the SLP wear pads do work good. Much cheaper than using a stud. At $24 a set, no big deal to repace them every 3000-4000 miles or as needed. IMHO a new fully clipped track is 14 times the cost and 14 times more labor, but not 14 times the bang for the buck over the SLP wear pads. Now if you have a ratcheting problem, drivers and a fully clipped track is the way to go.

sled coasts further, top end went up, hyfax wear went way down

 

[QCRider]

I also have the SLP Pads installed and have had good luck with them. May think about replacing them this year just to avoid having them wear all the way thru.