Yooper_Bob
Expert
I need your guys expertise...I was changing my hyfax today, and one of the screws broke. 
I drilled the center out....and bought a brand new easy out...pounded it in snug, and then tried to back the screw out. The stupid easy out snapped in half like a piece of cheap plastic..GRRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!!
Now the problem is the easy out is so hard, that I can no longer drill it out. If I could drill it out, I would just retap the hole..but I can't get past the stupid easy out.
Any suggestions?
If I can't get this fixed tomorrow, I will miss the TY ride next week...I am out of town all week on business.....
I drilled the center out....and bought a brand new easy out...pounded it in snug, and then tried to back the screw out. The stupid easy out snapped in half like a piece of cheap plastic..GRRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!!
Now the problem is the easy out is so hard, that I can no longer drill it out. If I could drill it out, I would just retap the hole..but I can't get past the stupid easy out.
Any suggestions?
If I can't get this fixed tomorrow, I will miss the TY ride next week...I am out of town all week on business.....
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I feel your pain LOL. Had the same thing happen on my Attak Mono skid. If you can get a good hard small punch, drive it out. Drill it oversized for a 1/4" panhead screw and crossdrill the rail for a nut. The other option is to drill a new hole and do the same process. You'll end up having to drill your hyfax each time if you do this. I have 9 Yamahas and have been ticked EVERY time I change slides!!
Budweiser
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Can you cut the hyfax out so that you can get vice grips on it?
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go with viperdaves method. i still do not know why they went away from this as this is how they where done on all the 70's sleds i played with.
at least yours did not do what mine did. looks like the screws walked out and the track clips milled the head down even so that there was almost no material left for my screw driver to grab. got them out but almost ended up like you are.
at least yours did not do what mine did. looks like the screws walked out and the track clips milled the head down even so that there was almost no material left for my screw driver to grab. got them out but almost ended up like you are.
Yooper_Bob
Expert
I already got the hyfax off...there was not enough screw sticking out to get vice grips on.
The sad part is the easy out broke off inside the screw....if that hadn't happened, I could have just finished drilling out the screw and retapped the hole.
I am gonna try and hit Sears tomorrow and see if they are open...I will get a better grade easy out and a high end drill bit.
The sad part is the easy out broke off inside the screw....if that hadn't happened, I could have just finished drilling out the screw and retapped the hole.
I am gonna try and hit Sears tomorrow and see if they are open...I will get a better grade easy out and a high end drill bit.
Shootinstick
Expert
You can remove the ez-out and steel screw with the following method copied from another site. You will need to pull the skid to do so:
A tap in Aluminum is most easily removed using straight nitric acid.
If the part is small enough to cover with acid simply do so, leave for
12 hours and the tap will be gone. If the hole isn't a through hole
and you can't immerse the part then build a dam with wax and cover,
pour out the used acid after an hour or so and repeat until it's
dissolved or falls out.
Sometimes the Al will sort of "glaze over" but it can be wiped off.
To make sure that you're dealing with Al you might check by running
some swarf or a spare chunk into the acid before trying it on
something you want to save.
A source of Nitric acid is from radiator shops.
A tap in Aluminum is most easily removed using straight nitric acid.
If the part is small enough to cover with acid simply do so, leave for
12 hours and the tap will be gone. If the hole isn't a through hole
and you can't immerse the part then build a dam with wax and cover,
pour out the used acid after an hour or so and repeat until it's
dissolved or falls out.
Sometimes the Al will sort of "glaze over" but it can be wiped off.
To make sure that you're dealing with Al you might check by running
some swarf or a spare chunk into the acid before trying it on
something you want to save.
A source of Nitric acid is from radiator shops.
Sno Cat
Expert
If you haven't done so, try heating the screw & EZ out. Sometimes there's locktite in there, heat will break it loose.
If you know someone with a die sink EDM machine, they can EDM it out. Precision metal fab shops & moldmaking shops may have an EDM machine.
Once you get thru this mess, Dremel a rectangular slot in the rail & use a square battery nut & run the screw into that.
If you know someone with a die sink EDM machine, they can EDM it out. Precision metal fab shops & moldmaking shops may have an EDM machine.
Once you get thru this mess, Dremel a rectangular slot in the rail & use a square battery nut & run the screw into that.
shanksyamaha
TY 4 Stroke Guru
After you get this taken care of, try this: http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=78847&highlight=slider+bolts+fix
Thats what I did and it worked great, Now I have a nut on the back of my slide screws rather than them being threaded into the rail..
Honestly if I were you, Id put a new slide on and drill and tap a new hole so I don't miss an important ride, then in the summer you can fix the problem at your own pace. I will do anything to not miss an important ride...
Thats what I did and it worked great, Now I have a nut on the back of my slide screws rather than them being threaded into the rail..
Honestly if I were you, Id put a new slide on and drill and tap a new hole so I don't miss an important ride, then in the summer you can fix the problem at your own pace. I will do anything to not miss an important ride...
CaptCaper
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All else fails I'd do Dan's method via drilling holes next to screw both at top were nut will be and if needed along sides from bottom up to get it out. You could always put helicoil in later if the hole is too big for you. The aluminum will be easy to drill.
Weld a spare bolt to the easy-out and then remove it with a wrench.
Budweiser
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
shanksyamaha said:
I agree! Its all about the ride! Do Dans method later at your own pace.
quebecmoutainrider
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
drill it..
the same happend to my wifes attack...drilled it out..took a wood screw and some lock tight...put it in..and it has never bothered me again....did this cause i was at the cottage with nothing to work with...changed it this year,,put the same screw in again...and it works...the slide once it has been used a bit .holds its self on...thats why we beat them off...lol..
the same happend to my wifes attack...drilled it out..took a wood screw and some lock tight...put it in..and it has never bothered me again....did this cause i was at the cottage with nothing to work with...changed it this year,,put the same screw in again...and it works...the slide once it has been used a bit .holds its self on...thats why we beat them off...lol..
tryanATTAK
Expert
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I had the same exact situation 2 seasons ago. I just drilled and tapped a new hole to get me going quick with plans on making a better permanent fix but to this day it is working just fine so I have left it alone.
Yooper_Bob
Expert
Update.....
OK....after breaking/burning a hand full of the best drill bits I could find on a Sunday morning in 'da UP, I finally got that sucker out.
To start with, I drilled a horizontal hole thru the rail at the base of the screw, in anticipation of using a bolt/nylock nut set up suggested earlier.
Then I drilled a hole on either side of the screw/easy-out and then took a BFH and a nail and was able to finally pound out the now fused screw/easy-out.
So...now I was left with a thumb sized hole in the bottom of the rail (not quite thumb sized, but big enough). I put some masking tape across the bottom of the rail, and then used JB weld to fill the jagged mess from the top.
Now, once that sets up, I will drill a new hole up thru the bottom and go with a machine screw/nylock nut. That will have to wait until Friday.
How hard is JB weld to drill thru? Gotta be easier than the easy-out was....
On a side note...I decided that while I had the sled in the nice warm garage, I would give all of the grease points a quick shot. Gave the right ski a shot and went to pull the gun off the zerk, and you guessed it, broke off the zerk (its just not my day).
Fortunately, I still have a bunch of easyouts that I bought to fix my first issue, and was able to back the stub out without any problems.
Off to the hardware store again (with my head hung in shame as it is my 3rd trip in two days)...they had a zerk that fit, and I am now done for the day...whew!
OK....after breaking/burning a hand full of the best drill bits I could find on a Sunday morning in 'da UP, I finally got that sucker out.
To start with, I drilled a horizontal hole thru the rail at the base of the screw, in anticipation of using a bolt/nylock nut set up suggested earlier.
Then I drilled a hole on either side of the screw/easy-out and then took a BFH and a nail and was able to finally pound out the now fused screw/easy-out.
So...now I was left with a thumb sized hole in the bottom of the rail (not quite thumb sized, but big enough). I put some masking tape across the bottom of the rail, and then used JB weld to fill the jagged mess from the top.
Now, once that sets up, I will drill a new hole up thru the bottom and go with a machine screw/nylock nut. That will have to wait until Friday.
How hard is JB weld to drill thru? Gotta be easier than the easy-out was....
On a side note...I decided that while I had the sled in the nice warm garage, I would give all of the grease points a quick shot. Gave the right ski a shot and went to pull the gun off the zerk, and you guessed it, broke off the zerk (its just not my day).
Fortunately, I still have a bunch of easyouts that I bought to fix my first issue, and was able to back the stub out without any problems.
Off to the hardware store again (with my head hung in shame as it is my 3rd trip in two days)...they had a zerk that fit, and I am now done for the day...whew!
shanksyamaha
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Wow yooper.. You had a hell of a time with that one. Don't ya hate it when an easy job turns into something like this.. The JB weld should be easy to drill through, its somewhat softer than metal. I have a buddy that swears by JB weld. He uses it on everything. On his sled he currently has two heat exchangers that had leaks and have been JB welded and he had a crack in his engine base and he JB welded that too. He is on his 3rd season with this sled and has not had a leak yet.. I guess its pretty good stuff...
