innovate a/f gauge

The sensor just plugs in , BUT you have to remove the seat , taillite , rear exhaust , side cover , rear muffler heat shield , loosen the gas tank , lift it to pull wiring , pull the sensor , do a free air calibration , reinstall everything !!!!

I have done thus + 10 times ,

I HAVE MORE TIME IN THIS GAUGE ,THAN THE INSTALL OF THE MPI SUPERCHARGER ,
THAT , THANK GOD WORKS AWESOME !
 
Be right back ....... I'm going to go buy a lottery ticket ...... :Rockon:
 
HAMMER said:
Be right back ....... I'm going to go buy a lottery ticket ...... :Rockon:

You need a lottery ticket for a quality A/F gauge that costs less than $400?
 
A quality A/F gauge that costs less than $400?
3rd season on mine ... 100% accurate ... 100% reliable ... worth every penny ... ;)!

If I were in gsxr's shoes I probably would have taken the kit off, backed over it a few times with my truck, then sent the peices back in the box it came in.

If you don't have it wired to supply the sensor heating element enough power, quickly enough, you could be damaging your sensor.

Make sure you have your LC-1 oxygen sensor operating before you run your engine otherwise the hot exhaust gases can quickly damage it. Excessive moisture in the exhaust will also damage the sensor. It is recommended the sensor be mounted between the 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock position. Innovate warns against using leaded gasoline as the wide-band sensors were designed for unleaded. Using them with leaded gasoline significantly reduces the lifespan of the sensor. In most cases (depending on the volume of lead in grams per gallon) a wide-band sensor will provide accurate measurements somewhere between 50 and 500 hours with leaded fuel.

INNOVATE MOTORSPORTS now has an even more affordable permanent install kit then the LC-1 with XD-16 gauge. They came out with the DB Gauges, these kits come with the gauge, an LC-1 wideband controller, oxygen sensor & bung/plug, and LogWorks engine-tuning software. For 289$
Quote above from this website:

http://www.mx6.com/forums/fe-dohc/204337-wideband-shootout.html

Cool new gauges below that go with the quote from the above website:
 

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Hammer I went looking for the pink wire you talked about ,
one in the right foot well was 12 gauge , full time power ,
the only other pink there was 18 ga , power only when reverse switch was activated.
The acces plug is what I used , engine running power only , but with a 10amp fuse .
 
L/R = Blue Red .... P = Pink .... I picked off at L/R before where the switch would be if I had the reverse option .... power is always there with engine running .... when you activate the switch all your doing is giving power a path to ground through the switch.
 

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Yes, but that circuit (pink wire) is fused at 3 amp , small wiring to step up to a 10 amp fuse
 
Good catch ... I went back and corrected that to 3A ... You could always use a relay off the Blue Red and get your power/grounds from the battery ... don't know what else to tell you because this has been working fine for me ... so I haven't tried anything else ... I did look at using a relay and pulling power from the ECS wire R/W (item 18) ... it is a 10A fused line ... I don't have the electronically controlled shock feature or reverse on my mountain sled ... they are just empty factory connectors I can use.

I was just reading through the new instructions (newer than when I intalled mine) and noted a few things ... like the 5A note below ... must need some wattage to heat that sensor if they reccomend a 5A fused source.

Connect the RED wire to a switched 12V source.
Make sure the connection is fused with a minimum fuse size of 5A.

Timing sensor errors 8. When the sensor is overheated. These errors are typically encountered when the sensor does not have outside air available as reference gas. The oxygen sensor needs to have the back part of the sensor (where the wires enter the sensor) exposed to outside air. If the sensor does not have outside air available as a reference gas its reaction time becomes so slow and the LC-1 will report a sensor timing error. DO NOT zip-tie the LC-1 by the cables. When the exhaust gas suddenly gets too rich the LC-1 cannot distinguish between a too rich condition and a sensor timing error.
 
Yes, I've seen that report before. My opinion is that the FJO is a better quality product. I see posts from guys fairly often that are having some type of issue with their Innovate gauge. The original poster advises me that he has 3 other customers that he's sold the Innovate to that are all having issues. Granted, I sell FJO gauges, so my opinion should hardly be considered un-biased, but 10 minutes of searching this forum and I can find posts up the wazoo from people having issues with their Innovate, I can't find a single one for the FJO product.

Complete FJO Widebands are available from BPE for $357.00.
 
Mark down another to get rid of the POS that the innovate is. It work for the first 100 miles then went nutso. Installed the correct way no leaded fuel, just freaked out reading all sorts of jibberish. I solved the problem to by ordering a FJO set up from Lakercr
 
Fair enough. Not trying to argue with you, and I'm glad that your gauge is performing well.

You can search on just about every topic in this section and have a good chance of finding my $.02 in it somewhere... :flag:
 


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