14ftn
Newbie
Can anyone help me out with how the top left Jackshaft bearing slides off the shaft once the snap ring is removed??? I don't want to pry or poke anything in any way to damage it. I have 5600 miles on the original and would like to replace it.
YammyRX1
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You can try heating the housing around it to see if it will loosen up but you might have to take the chaincase apart to remove the jackshaft.
Honk
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what snap ring? Undo the 2 torx set screws on collar, remove nuts,speedo cable, and cover should slide off in your hand..May need a little prompting
helmic
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shaft
He is talking about the jackshaft not the driven shaft..
Honk said:
He is talking about the jackshaft not the driven shaft..
NY AttakGT
TY 4 Stroke Guru
As far as I knew, the jackshaft had to come out to take off that bearing, in which the chaincase has to be removed, since the jackshaft will slide out from the chaincase side. Don't forget there is a large nut on the other side of the bulkhead, which has to be removed to slide the jackshaft out.
I think I read that people have been putting the jackshaft and bearing in the freezer in order to get the bearing off the shaft. Same thing goes for installing the new bearing, in the freezer. If you are going to try pounding the jackshaft out, don't forget to throw a bolt in the shaft so you don't mangle the end of the shaft.
As far as servicing the bearing, I have just been popping the circlip off, carefully removing the bearing seal (with very small flat-head screwdriver. Be careful not to poke or puncture the seal!), cleaning the old grease with Brake Cleaner, spray with compressed air to get rid of any Brake Cleaner, and re-pack with new grease. I use a grease injector needle so get plenty to the back side of the bearing.
I think I read that people have been putting the jackshaft and bearing in the freezer in order to get the bearing off the shaft. Same thing goes for installing the new bearing, in the freezer. If you are going to try pounding the jackshaft out, don't forget to throw a bolt in the shaft so you don't mangle the end of the shaft.
As far as servicing the bearing, I have just been popping the circlip off, carefully removing the bearing seal (with very small flat-head screwdriver. Be careful not to poke or puncture the seal!), cleaning the old grease with Brake Cleaner, spray with compressed air to get rid of any Brake Cleaner, and re-pack with new grease. I use a grease injector needle so get plenty to the back side of the bearing.
gsxr
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AND THE RIGHT ANSWER IS !!!
Take out snap ring , use a shock adjusting tool to undo the lock nut on the rear of the bearing. Hold tool , turn secondary to loosen .That will release the taper collar inside the bearing , and then slide off shaft.
Do in reverse to install , watch the bearing has a taper inside , be sure to put on the right way !!
No Heat needed to do the job.
Hold wrench turn shaft with secondary to tighten !!
Take out snap ring , use a shock adjusting tool to undo the lock nut on the rear of the bearing. Hold tool , turn secondary to loosen .That will release the taper collar inside the bearing , and then slide off shaft.
Do in reverse to install , watch the bearing has a taper inside , be sure to put on the right way !!
No Heat needed to do the job.
Hold wrench turn shaft with secondary to tighten !!
THKSNOW
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gsxr said:
Could it really be this simple? How accessable is the "lock nut" on the back side of the bearing? The "shock adjusting tool" looks like what? On a scale of 1-10 (10 the max) how tough is it doing it this way?
danq
Expert
from the tech section
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles ... change.htm
Are you trying to get it out without opening the chaincase?
The jackshaft bearing is a tight fit I needed heat and to use the jackshaft itself like a slide hammer to get the bearing out..
I used my ohlins shock wrench to hold the collar...
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles ... change.htm
Are you trying to get it out without opening the chaincase?
The jackshaft bearing is a tight fit I needed heat and to use the jackshaft itself like a slide hammer to get the bearing out..
I used my ohlins shock wrench to hold the collar...
Just took my chaincase apart to get at the bearing. If you are just going to grease it I would recommend taking the secondary off and removing the seal, cleaning and then packing it with grease. It will last a long time if done every year. If you replace it, the chaincase will have to come apart. My mistake was not running a wire or rope through the gears to remember how they went back together as I took it apart and I had two washers of a slightly differnt size in the wrong spot. It ran but would gring every time I put the throttle to it. I took me a week to figure it out. Good luck! It is a little time comsuming but beats paying $80 and hour.
Blue Dave
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Well I finally finished my project. I got carried away and changed both jackshaft bearings, both driveshaft bearings, and all three oil seals in the chaincase.
The jackshaft bearing behind the secondary was as much of a PIA to install as the old one was to remove. I put the new bearing in the freezer and I heated the frame in the area where the bearing mounts. Even with a cold bearing and hot frame it was still a tight press fit. I placed the old bearing against the new bearing and with the help of a large plastic mallet I was able to send it home.
If you replace this bearing note that it is not a standard 6206. It is special in that the inside diameter is tapered. This is so that it mates properly with the taperlock bushing that secures this bearing to the jackshaft. I could not find this special bearing anywhere but from Yamaha. Equally important is the orientation of this bearing when you install it. The larger ID needs to be facing outwards so that it matches the profile of the taperlock bushing OD.
If you change the chaincase oil seals, note that the oil seal in the chaincase cover is special as well. It is a Viton seal that is designed for the higher temperatures that might be transmitted through the jackshaft from the brake rotor. The Viton seal is red in color and costs about three times as much as the two other standard black oil seals.
The jackshaft bearing behind the secondary was as much of a PIA to install as the old one was to remove. I put the new bearing in the freezer and I heated the frame in the area where the bearing mounts. Even with a cold bearing and hot frame it was still a tight press fit. I placed the old bearing against the new bearing and with the help of a large plastic mallet I was able to send it home.
If you replace this bearing note that it is not a standard 6206. It is special in that the inside diameter is tapered. This is so that it mates properly with the taperlock bushing that secures this bearing to the jackshaft. I could not find this special bearing anywhere but from Yamaha. Equally important is the orientation of this bearing when you install it. The larger ID needs to be facing outwards so that it matches the profile of the taperlock bushing OD.
If you change the chaincase oil seals, note that the oil seal in the chaincase cover is special as well. It is a Viton seal that is designed for the higher temperatures that might be transmitted through the jackshaft from the brake rotor. The Viton seal is red in color and costs about three times as much as the two other standard black oil seals.
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mikeyrules
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bearing
It took me 15 minutes to change that bearing,although i do not recommend to do it this way.I was in a hurry to leave on a trip had no time to fool around.
What i did is i took a 1 1/2 pipe approx.....8 inch long and i tacked welded it to the inner race of the bearing,i tacked a peace of metal at the end of the pipe to tap on it.4-5 good taps with a hammer and out it comes.
If you attempt this you need to be careful with the ground of the welder,making sure its on the pipe,you might short out something else.
It worked fine for me,no problems.
It took me 15 minutes to change that bearing,although i do not recommend to do it this way.I was in a hurry to leave on a trip had no time to fool around.
What i did is i took a 1 1/2 pipe approx.....8 inch long and i tacked welded it to the inner race of the bearing,i tacked a peace of metal at the end of the pipe to tap on it.4-5 good taps with a hammer and out it comes.
If you attempt this you need to be careful with the ground of the welder,making sure its on the pipe,you might short out something else.
It worked fine for me,no problems.
rangerapex
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Ive read through a few threads but it seems like they had a different style jackshaft. I have a 2010 apex ltxgt and am trying to change the jackshaft bearing behind the secondary. On my sled it has two bolts that hold the bearing housing on. Once you remove these bolts the bearing housing will spin with the bearing. It seems like this whole housing will pull off the jackshaft with the bearing but I cant get it to slide. Anyone encountered this newer style with advice?
