Last chance help.....

Mooseman said:
I found the wiring schematic and it is a very simple circuit. From stud 1, there is one connection (c428) that goes to the rear trailer connector. If you have option YU2, there is also a cut wire that goes for a 5th wheel install. Check the wire going into the trailer plug and give it a good tug. It might have corroded inside. Try piercing the wire and seeing if there is power. Beyond that, I wouldn't spend a lot more time trying to trace the whole thing. Like @4strokeluvr111 said, I'd just run a new wire to the plug.

BTW, just a dumb question, you are checking the right prong in the plug, right? I once had a #$%&* :o| moment wiring up some lights when I was using the wrong connections in the connector. Check all the prongs.
Click to expand...

My friend is also concerned about possible corrosion in the existing wire harness. Apparently they have a history of going bad too quickly. All the more reason to not disturb the harness and just run a wire.
 
OK, so this did not go good. From the factory that wire is connected to post #1 or b+. I've did what I could do. I have remote start that is sharing same post. Which thru me cause I have power at both terminals on fuse. I assume the remote start is back feeding power for it to work.

Switch to post #2. Same. No power to rear.

Friend shows up with exact same truck. We open the hood, put 30amp fuse in and he has power to top right terminal. Where I don't.

So, it's down to chasing a problem or running a new wire.

I hate!!!!! Butchering a new wire in!!!!! But I don't see thing ending any other way!

Joe
 
Last edited:
jtmetal said:
I hate!!!!! Butchering a new wire in!!!!! But I don't see thing ending any other way!
Click to expand...

With due respect Joe, I would call running a new wire far from it being a "butcher" job. Run the wires along the LS (?) side of the truck where your fuel and brake lines are. Liberal use of zip ties makes everything look clean. Remove/cut (and splice) the + wire from your existing round female connector.

I myself have done this several times and I'm anal about clean looking wiring.
 
I'm anal as well. I'm going from the point where, I have a perfectly good wire in a loom that is not functioning. And it's less time consuming to just run a new lead.

Well..... Obviously not a perfectly good wire! Lol. And the real problem I have is, the lead from post#1 to the 7way is direct! I'm shocked it doesn't work.
 
jtmetal said:
I'm anal as well. I'm going from the point where, I have a perfectly good wire in a loom that is not functioning. And it's less time consuming to just run a new lead.

Well..... Obviously not a perfectly good wire! Lol. And the real problem I have is, the lead from post#1 to the 7way is direct! I'm shocked it doesn't work.
Click to expand...

Do you have the larger square fuse in for Post #1? Is it good?

One of the leads goes to your brake controller....the other one (in the loom) is for the 7way.
 
4strokeluvr111 said:
Do you have the larger square fuse in for Post #1? Is it good?

One of the leads goes to your brake controller....the other one (in the loom) is for the 7way.
Click to expand...

None in loom! My truck and buddies today, that he has owned since new, verified. Wire was always connected, with dummy fuse in place.

Yes, I removed dummy fuse and replaced with 30amp
 
jtmetal said:
None in loom! My truck and buddies today, that he has owned since new, verified. Wire was always connected, with dummy fuse in place.

Yes, I removed dummy fuse and replaced with 30amp
Click to expand...

So you should have power to the 7 way now?
 
4strokeluvr111 said:
So you should have power to the 7 way now?
Click to expand...
My friends truck has power doing the same to his, mine does not.
I stopped by the guy who installed my remote start. He spent 20mins on it.
He says to just run a new lead to back.

So, six guys tell me to run a new lead. Lol! I'm stubborn, lol, but I've given up.

New lead it is. Do I need to put an inline fuse?
 
jtmetal said:
My friends truck has power doing the same to his, mine does not.
I stopped by the guy who installed my remote start. He spent 20mins on it.
He says to just run a new lead to back.

So, six guys tell me to run a new lead. Lol! I'm stubborn, lol, but I've given up.

New lead it is. Do I need to put an inline fuse?
Click to expand...

Yes you should. A HD type of fuse as well.
 
jtmetal said:
My friends truck has power doing the same to his, mine does not.
I stopped by the guy who installed my remote start. He spent 20mins on it.
He says to just run a new lead to back.

So, six guys tell me to run a new lead. Lol! I'm stubborn, lol, but I've given up.

New lead it is. Do I need to put an inline fuse?
Click to expand...
As long as you're after the 30A fuse in the fuse block and your wire can handle 30A, I wouldn't bother with another inline fuse.
 
ksiesel said:
As long as you're after the 30A fuse in the fuse block and your wire can handle 30A, I wouldn't bother with another inline fuse.
Click to expand...

Post #1 fuse has power coming in from both sides. No I can't explain.
Other than there's a lead going from post #1 to second battery on passenger side. (All factory)

No one has touched this truck except remote start guy. He claims it's not his wiring. I believe him.
 
I got it all! 14ga wire, inline weathertight, buts w/seals, loom,

I am assuming, I'm cutting the wire at 1o'clock position on truck?

Spent the day working on trailer. Another nightmare all together.
 
jtmetal said:
I got it all! 14ga wire, inline weathertight, buts w/seals, loom,

I am assuming, I'm cutting the wire at 1o'clock position on truck?

Spent the day working on trailer. Another nightmare all together.
Click to expand...

Only 14 ga.? smh. What size fuse did you put inline?
 
Well, I got the assortment pack. I think 30amp is the biggest in the package.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

N
Nytro Help Please
Replies
4
Views
735
74Nitro
74Nitro


Back
Top