loss of top end with EVAC setup !!!!!

[Yamanator]

Does anybody remember reading a reply to a post about thier K&N's losing top end due to the fact the carbs were pulling to much oil through them with the evac setup ? I am trying to locate the post and am not having any luck, does anybody remember who wrote the reply ? I sure would like to talk to him....... I think he said he is NOT running any evac system now and has picked up his top end again by just running the filter's. If anybody can remember please let me know.......


Thanks for the help.

 

[Mighty]

Are you sure you don't have it backwards? I had to add a evac kit to regain my topend. I drove about 500 miles after the kit install with no oil loss

 

[BlueByYou2000]

The EVAC system actually makes more power (Dynarexs setup) than the standard crank case vent. I dont remember that post but do remember people complaining of top end loss runnigs the fitlers but this was because they were driving through there clutching so cailbrations in that department got the top end back...BBY

 

[Yamanator]

Mighty, did you ever reply to a post about losing top end because of oil going through the carbs?

Matt, I am going to do the evac setup for the power, but am just contimplating wich one I want to do, Jason's look's very interesting to me and I like the fact that you don't have to undo a cap every few hundred miles to let out the water. Also it put's the good oil back into the engine.
I do like the other setup also just because of the simplicity of it, but was just wondering if there was a way to get the condensation out to the ground and the oil back into the engine !!! I'm so confused....

I still have all the plumbing stuff for the simple evac and might just go for that right now, and then see how much Jason's setup is going to cost. I do like the looks of it........

 

[Mighty]

I never posted about using any oil, only loosing topend. I like the idea of being able to unscrew a cap to let the water out. I'd rather do that then let it go back thru the engine. Or worse yet letting it freeze in the line and cause excessive crank case pressure where it blows the plugs out of the engine like some did :shock:

 

[jimmie d]

I am going to hold off for Jason as I don't like the idea of that crud getting back into my engine.

 

[Yamanator]

I liked that idea too, but what if you forget to unscrew the cap and your in the U.P. and just did a 350 mile ride and it gets down to 20 below that night ? won't that freeze up also in the line with excessive water ?
Don't get me wrong, I am not an excpert on any of this, that is why I am here, I am just trying to educate myself on wich way I want to go.
Maybe Jason will read this and can shed a little light on how his system get's the good oil back in the engine and lets the water evaporate some how.

 

[Mighty]

I liked that idea too, but what if you forget to unscrew the cap and your in the U.P. and just did a 350 mile ride and it gets down to 20 below that night ? won't that freeze up also in the line with excessive water ?

Yep, just like all the other RX-1's/Warriors without this kit.

You got me thinking, why couldn't we install a check valve at the tee. When the sled is running the vacuum would suck it closed, when you shut the engine down it will open allowing the water to drain out :?

 

[Yamanator]

let's do that, I think that sounds like a winner

 

[DYNAREX]

hey guys-
ive tried a ck valve of sorts and they all freeze up and clog
the majority of moisture happens on startup so just drain it once after after it warms up and you shouldnt hav to worry about it -if it does freeze because it wasnt drained the plug at the bottom will just pull out the icepop like a popsicle-jason idea is good for a turbo motor only-theres not enough heat in a normal engine to keep the moistur in the container a liquid-ive tried something similar last year and it froze up-the when it melted it all drained into my crankcase-id rather burn the water vapor than mix it into the bearings huh
thanks
Dean