SMOKNZ
Extreme
I have been reading alot about matching the carbide length to the track and amount of studs your running. I bought my sled studded and it had 8" dual carbides on it. After growing tired of the studs tearing up everything and ripping out of the track and ultimately destroying the track I went to a 1.5 Camoplast intense track. I still have the 8" dual carbides and they are pretty worn. I want to replace them but not sure what length to go with. I was looking at some snow stud's 4" dual runners. Would this be a good match for a studles track (don't plan on adding any either)?
Undersized carbide contributes to understeer, which can be considered the worst handling trait of any vehicle. A single 8" runner is a great benefit to even an unstudded track, and is easier to steer than a smaller runner.
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6 or 8" single carbide with the ski shim will probably suit you well.
My favorite was a 10" Woodys ice racing rod welded under 5/8 rod. When the carbide wore off a 6" piece of rod with carbide was welded under that. The thing was 1,1/4" deep and steered great if you put some muscle into it.
AttakSnow2
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I think it all depends on how aggressive of a rider you are? If you ride hard and zip through the corners, you want more of a carbide. IMO, but it really all depends on how you ride if your not studding the track.
Yes its all in how you ride and the conditions. Ride it as it is set up and if the back end tries to pass the front (loose) go down to 4's or 6's but be prepared for understeer or a push.
As the master told Cole trickle in the Days of Thunder - "loose is fast"
In the RX's it is also dependant on what roll bar your running. The factory one is softer allowing more roll in the center which places more pressure on the outside ski and lifts the inside one. A 13mm bar plants the front more square, less left but also less bite. Limiter strap settings also control the weight transfer and can reduce ski pressure.
Soooooo ride it if you don"t like it change something. But only one thing at a time. And it doesn't mean you have to spend money.
As the master told Cole trickle in the Days of Thunder - "loose is fast"
In the RX's it is also dependant on what roll bar your running. The factory one is softer allowing more roll in the center which places more pressure on the outside ski and lifts the inside one. A 13mm bar plants the front more square, less left but also less bite. Limiter strap settings also control the weight transfer and can reduce ski pressure.
Soooooo ride it if you don"t like it change something. But only one thing at a time. And it doesn't mean you have to spend money.
SMOKNZ
Extreme
Thank's guys. I already have the 13mm bar. I appreciate the input! I will be shimming the ski's this weekend. Just no snow to ride on here anymore 
Todd Boeske
Newbie
Hey sorry to jump into this conversation but what does it mean to shim your skis and what/how is it done? Thanks
darv
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I would recommend 6" carbides i run the stud boy shappers and shim
yox185
TY 4 Stroke Master
Todd Boeske
Newbie
1/4 in. or 3/8 in.? They look simple enough is it something you could make yourself? I run the Shaper bars too. Thanks.
brcarz28
Newbie
Definitley easy to make yourself. I just took some 1/4" thick UHMW 3/4" wide and cut them 1-1/4" long. Then counter sunk a hole in the middle of them and put a stainless #6 sheet metal screw through them with some RTV around the threads. Just make sure that the head of your screw does not stick out past the surface of the UHMW or whatever you use to shim. Worked great!!!
