Measured Stock '23 SRX Specs - Weight and Clutch Offset

[yamaha06]

Tonight I was able to get around to checking my clutch offset on my 23 SRX. The offset was 62.43mm, I removed the shim and was at 60.4mm

I used my Hurricane alignment bar and there was roughly 1mm of play between the gauge and the sheave so I could probably machine 1mm off my secondary and be perfect with the Hurricane bar. That should put my offset around 59.4mm

Are you guys removing the secondary float too? I know I did in my 2017, left maybe .4mm or so of float.

 

[KnappAttack]

Tonight I was able to get around to checking my clutch offset on my 23 SRX. The offset was 62.43mm, I removed the shim and was at 60.4mm

I used my Hurricane alignment bar and there was roughly 1mm of play between the gauge and the sheave so I could probably machine 1mm off my secondary and be perfect with the Hurricane bar. That should put my offset around 59.4mm

Are you guys removing the secondary float too? I know I did in my 2017, left maybe .4mm or so of float.

I remove the float myself. I've tried floating before and always ended up blow belts prematurely when doing so. The problem with floating is if its floated outwards and you grab a handful, it will not float back in until you let off the throttle, this can be seen by grabbing a handful of throttle on the stand and giving the brake lever a slight tug at the same time so the clutches are under load, you can see the secondary stuck outward until you either let off the throttle or the brake lever, it can not float in when under power into proper position I dont care how much grease you have on the shaft.

I have found bolted solid to be the ticket to not blowing belts with proper clutching under all conditions myself. The best thing I ever did for primary rollers, belt life and my sanity on the big tunes, was to go to the RX1 and then the TAPP primary though too. All clutch, belt, roller problems were solved in going away from the stock winder primary, before this I wanted to crush the old 17 sled with a dozer before I figured this out. Needless to say the TAPP is now on my 23 with no secondary float too....

IMO the Winder primary belongs in the scrap bin when going up in power.

 

[Simplespeed]

I remove the float myself. I've tried floating before and always ended up blow belts prematurely when doing so. The problem with floating is if its floated outwards and you grab a handful, it will not float back in until you let off the throttle, this can be seen by grabbing a handful of throttle on the stand and giving the brake lever a slight tug at the same time so the clutches are under load, you can see the secondary stuck outward until you either let off the throttle or the brake lever, it can not float in when under power into proper position I dont care how much grease you have on the shaft.

I have found bolted solid to be the ticket to not blowing belts with proper clutching under all conditions myself. The best thing I ever did for primary rollers, belt life and my sanity on the big tunes, was to go to the RX1 and then the TAPP primary though too. All clutch, belt, roller problems were solved in going away from the stock winder primary, before this I wanted to crush the old 17 sled with a dozer before I figured this out. Needless to say the TAPP is now on my 23 with no secondary float too....

IMO the Winder primary belongs in the scrap bin when going up in power.

From my testing and changes I made using a stock primary I found that if you can get all four sheeves to be the same lower temperature after multiple runs you can get a balanced clutched system that has minimal heat, minimal belt dust, minimal wear and no worries of broken belts . Now the question is can you get these results with 300 horsepower ??? I believe you can if you have the following perfected …. First you must have proper offset… next proper center to center, next your springs, weights, helix need to be in balance along with both clutches balanced, next your belt needs to be no higher than flush with top of secondary , next your primary needs to be shimmed so belt does not go into overdrive and stay within 3/16” of top of clutch at full shift out.. I believe you can and will run many miles with no issues and with proper studding and suspension set up hang on …. If anything is not in accordance with what I described above, I found that either you build too much heat, you squeeze the belt too violently , or the timing of shift is out to lunch.. After tuning and testing and getting things right, I found the whole clutch system is not showing any signs of wear after 500 miles of hard running..Is this set up for Max hole shot, no and is it set up for max top mph no .. its a trail ride set up thats works like intended.. Everything I shared here are steps I took to make belts live on a drag sled that did 147 mph that was eating belts during testing …. I believe it was around 350 horsepower . I know you know clutching and done extensive testing and Tapp is also a great clutch and no doubt works and probably is alot better as it should be… This is just my experience….

 

[jonlafon1]

next your belt needs to be no higher than flush with top of secondary ,

AGREE . Dead on IMO