Anybody had their rear suspension out of the 2005 Mono shock Yet? Just looking for tricks, ect. I assume we have to remove the 3 cap screws that hold the rate adjuster 1st. (that it does not just plug in somehow). Also any tricks going back in?
Thanks in advance
Doug
Thanks in advance
Doug
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Still very new to us too...I would like to here any info from guys that pull it out as well 
welterracer
TY 4 Stroke God
Why would you want to pull it already??
ITs gonna be one of the best suspensions out there and already has the best track ever!!
Rememeber yamaha was the first to introduce the monoshock rear suspension on the Moto X bikes.... Now they have done it with the RX..
ITs gonna be one of the best suspensions out there and already has the best track ever!!
Rememeber yamaha was the first to introduce the monoshock rear suspension on the Moto X bikes.... Now they have done it with the RX..
Much easier to stud track on the bench. I also always check the drive shaft for run out. Plus if I have to pull the suspension later in the field, I will be able to do it, not just look at it & wonder what to do. Not always dealers availible on Sunday in the middle of nowhere.
BigDog05
VIP Member
I'm very interested also, as I'll stud my track when its out to install the turbo. I'm also interested if extrovert drivers will be needed with this new suspension and a turbo. I may just punch the windows while its out, then if I have to add extroverts I'll be ready.
Bossman
Expert
Did you guys ever figure out an easy way to get the rear suspension back in. I dropped the rear to install my new exhaust but now could use some help with an easy way to get it back in if there is such a thing.
Bossman easiest way I found was takeing a ratchet ty down strap from the front monoshock axle to the rear one your trying to get lined up, it's about 3/4 of an inch off' and compessthe shock by tightening the strap . Also you should probably loosen the track. It'll take about 5 mins. this way and no sweat.
RX-Dave
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Well, I have removed the rear shock. I know in the service manual it says to remove the adjuster from the tunnel, but you have to remove the adjuster from the shock anyways to get it out.
I just undo the cable from the adjuster to the shock (same setup and a cable speedo drive) then pull the 2 bolts.
Putting it back in, you have to compress the spring some, I lay a thick towel around the W arm, and using a crow bar, I compress the spring about 1/2Inch, then drive the bolt home.
I had to take it out to adjust the C clip on the outside of the shock. The stock setting was going to be to soft for my riding and 260lbs. Moving the adjuster made a bid difference in pre-load. The grooves are about .500" apart.
I just undo the cable from the adjuster to the shock (same setup and a cable speedo drive) then pull the 2 bolts.
Putting it back in, you have to compress the spring some, I lay a thick towel around the W arm, and using a crow bar, I compress the spring about 1/2Inch, then drive the bolt home.
I had to take it out to adjust the C clip on the outside of the shock. The stock setting was going to be to soft for my riding and 260lbs. Moving the adjuster made a bid difference in pre-load. The grooves are about .500" apart.
Bossman
Expert
Thanks guys, thats pretty much what I had figured we would have to do. It's not off by much so that shouldn't be to bad.
The easy way to get suspension back in is to remove the front bolt from the transfer adjuster after you place the suspension in place. That will allow you to get the bolts 4 main ones in then you can put the transfer bolt back in.
Loosen the nut from that bolt while you have the suspension out as mine was so tight that I ended up puling the suspension back out and doing it on the bench. (like a 14MM nut & bolt)
Also easier to remove the cable from the tunnel sde and leave it on the shock. It is like a speedo cable and as long as you do not change the position on the dial, it will be fine. I set mine in standard position befoer removal and had no problems.
Loosen the nut from that bolt while you have the suspension out as mine was so tight that I ended up puling the suspension back out and doing it on the bench. (like a 14MM nut & bolt)
Also easier to remove the cable from the tunnel sde and leave it on the shock. It is like a speedo cable and as long as you do not change the position on the dial, it will be fine. I set mine in standard position befoer removal and had no problems.
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Big dog 05,
Some have noted that when using extrovert drivers,that it should be a factory pre punched track with every window open. If it is one that you just punch out the closed ones...the drive sprockets are out of timing . Hartman Inc has ordered fully clipped 136 ripsaws for this reason,and says it was no good when they punched them themselves,as a bit off here and there put the drive sprockets out of time....Just what I had heard.
Some have noted that when using extrovert drivers,that it should be a factory pre punched track with every window open. If it is one that you just punch out the closed ones...the drive sprockets are out of timing . Hartman Inc has ordered fully clipped 136 ripsaws for this reason,and says it was no good when they punched them themselves,as a bit off here and there put the drive sprockets out of time....Just what I had heard.
