ranger1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Is there anyway of increasing the weight transfer on my RTX as I don't run studs & the adjuster nuts are adjusted down to the coloured limit line(I believe it is called "pro-active" suspension).
I have the limit strap in the middle as letting it out all the way will shorten the sliders life near the front bigtime.
I have the suspension out right now as I am putting on Kimpex wheels with replaceable bearings.(except the two top & back middle which have replaceable bearings
I have only had this sled for a month but I am totally impressed with it, however, I would like to lighten up the front a bit if possible, an ideas?
Thanks
I have the limit strap in the middle as letting it out all the way will shorten the sliders life near the front bigtime.
I have the suspension out right now as I am putting on Kimpex wheels with replaceable bearings.(except the two top & back middle which have replaceable bearings
I have only had this sled for a month but I am totally impressed with it, however, I would like to lighten up the front a bit if possible, an ideas?
Thanks
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
I'm assuming you have the limiters straps out all the way already? For more transfer, you can run those nuts down further without hurting anything. What you'll be doing is allowing the suspension to use more of it's available travel. The downside is this suspension releases track tension as it collapses, and less track tension = higher risk for track ratcheting. No way around it.
ranger1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
ahicks said:I'm assuming you have the limiters straps out all the way already? For more transfer, you can run those nuts down further without hurting anything. What you'll be doing is allowing the suspension to use more of it's available travel. The downside is this suspension releases track tension as it collapses, and less track tension = higher risk for track ratcheting. No way around it.
Looks like yours does pretty damn good wheelies from the looks of your profile picture! lol Was that from flat ground?
ranger1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Oh ya, if I let the limit straps all the way out, wouldn't that wear the front of the slidders fast, or wouldn't affect it too much?
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
I tried my damdest to make the OEM suspension work when they frst came out. Became discouraged with it when I could find no way to use all the suspension travel without ratcheting. I had decided to install the extroverts and new track to use with the extroverts as a last (very expensive) resort, but while I had it down decided to scrap the whole mess and go with somethng I know (the Poo Suspension).
People I ride with and many of those that know me, realize I'm a complete suspension nut. The reasons that sled will do that are shown in my signature. Yes, that's a standing start on flat ground - with about 30" of heavy wet spring snow under it. You can see the roost shooting out in back of it. Totally stock engine and clutching, and no studs.
People I ride with and many of those that know me, realize I'm a complete suspension nut. The reasons that sled will do that are shown in my signature. Yes, that's a standing start on flat ground - with about 30" of heavy wet spring snow under it. You can see the roost shooting out in back of it. Totally stock engine and clutching, and no studs.
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
ranger1 said:Oh ya, if I let the limit straps all the way out, wouldn't that wear the front of the slidders fast, or wouldn't affect it too much?
Shouldn't change slider wear, I wouldn't think. It could change what you have going on for ski weight accelerating while trying to turn?
ranger1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
ahicks said:I tried my damdest to make the OEM suspension work when they frst came out. Became discouraged with it when I could find no way to use all the suspension travel without ratcheting. I had decided to install the extroverts and new track to use with the extroverts as a last (very expensive) resort, but while I had it down decided to scrap the whole mess and go with somethng I know (the Poo Suspension).
People I ride with and many of those that know me, realize I'm a complete suspension nut. The reasons that sled will do that are shown in my signature. Yes, that's a standing start on flat ground - with about 30" of heavy wet spring snow under it. You can see the roost shooting out in back of it. Totally stock engine and clutching, and no studs.
I have been a Polaris dude all my life until this year. Which Poo suspension did you go with & was there any fabrications you had to do or did it bolt right inn?
Your right about the extrovert conversion, a little on the pricey side! lol
Changing out my suspension could be a feasible solution as the only downside to this sled that I have seen thus far is the suspension.
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
I went ProX, mostly because of the wide selection of shocks available for it, low cost - and I've been messing with them forever. No real fabrication. All that's necessary is to replace the rear mounting plates with some flat 3/16 material, maybe 4x6" or so?
Many have gone with other OEM suspensions as well. I've always suggested going with one you know if there is one. You WILL be required to get it dialed in afterward. I have 3 seasons on the Poo now, so I have it where it's pretty well set. Glad to share any part of that install with anyone interested. That kind of info available pretty much as easily from some others for a lot of the Cat and Doo suspensions as well. Just holler. -Al
Many have gone with other OEM suspensions as well. I've always suggested going with one you know if there is one. You WILL be required to get it dialed in afterward. I have 3 seasons on the Poo now, so I have it where it's pretty well set. Glad to share any part of that install with anyone interested. That kind of info available pretty much as easily from some others for a lot of the Cat and Doo suspensions as well. Just holler. -Al