insane
Expert
I have an attak with about 4000 miles. I am planning on a mpi stage-2 s/c with a snow performance water/meth system. I was hoping to run at about 15 to 17 psi and still be trail ridable and dependable. What mods should I do to my motor and has anyone had experience with this set-up on an apex?


yamiboost
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I have pretty much same setup just not quite as much boost i have je 10:1 pistons carrollo rods arp studs. they day 15+psi the rods are a must...
Skydog
TY 4 Stroke God
15-17 to much if you ask me for trail! Set up right and 8-10 ROCKS!
Skydog
Skydog

Turk
Tech Advisor
15-17 psi on the trail? trees won,t like that!!!
Skydog
TY 4 Stroke God
hahah Yea set up right at that boost is like a bomb when you pull the trigger!!
insane
Expert
Too much??? I have read of other members on this site running 20+ on the trail with reliability. Every mod that I have installed on my sled that actually worked I researched and bought off this site. I am researching a mod in which I am interested in installing on the finest snowmobile to ever roll off an assembly line. Why is 15 to 17 too much? Is it unreliable? I want to put 2000 to 3000 miles a year and i don't need unreliable.


yamiboost
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insane said:Too much??? I have read of other members on this site running 20+ on the trail with reliability. Every mod that I have installed on my sled that actually worked I researched and bought off this site. I am researching a mod in which I am interested in installing on the finest snowmobile to ever roll off an assembly line. Why is 15 to 17 too much? Is it unreliable? I want to put 2000 to 3000 miles a year and i don't need unreliable.
Insane... I don't think its the unreliable part its just a lot of power for on the trail but not to worry you can lower the boost for on the trail and crank it up for the race. Not saying people don't do it but if i planed on doing 2-3000miles i don't think i would be running more than 7psi. This is my third winter for my attak and i don't have 3000miles on it yet.
insane
Expert
I agree some discretion might be needed before you crack open a 300 hp sled, but if it is good solid dependable performance then all I should need is a functional throttle and a brain. We ride 50 to 80 miles to the mountains to find some real snow and then thats where we play. If the higher p.s.i. is not functional than I'm not interested, if you are telling me it is too fast then I am very interested.


mulot30th
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I rode 700 miles at anywhere from 16 to 19# of boost this winter on the trail. Just have to be polite with throttle when on a tight trail through trees.
I plan to ride MORE miles than that next winter in this sled while running anywhere from 20 to 28# of boost by the way.
I plan to ride MORE miles than that next winter in this sled while running anywhere from 20 to 28# of boost by the way.
insane
Expert
MulotTurbo said:I rode 700 miles at anywhere from 16 to 19# of boost this winter on the trail. Just have to be polite with throttle when on a tight trail through trees.
I plan to ride MORE miles than that next winter in this sled while running anywhere from 20 to 28# of boost by the way.
Now that's what I'm talking about. You guys with the chargers, turbo and super, are pioneers. These 4 stroke motors are by all acounts, wether you are a fan or not, gifts from the snowmobile gods. I had a question and Yammiboost and MulotTurbo tried to help out. I could've googled my question and got a bunch of paid advertisements, instead I went to site blue and got some real world opinions and some facts. Hey MulotTurbo, did you have to modify your pistons and rods along with the head studs to run that pressure? Sorry about getting so personal but it sounds like you are playing up where I am looking to go.


Turk
Tech Advisor
I had one of Simons cpr original turbo kits in 2004.
Had probably the 1st kaboom 15 minutes after kit was installed. 2nd owner can,t kill it!!
Had probably the 1st kaboom 15 minutes after kit was installed. 2nd owner can,t kill it!!
Ted Jannetty
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To answer your original question.
Obviously your looking to do this on pump gas, with Water meth.
All this can be done if you want a bigger baby sitting job.
You must be able to buy water meth or Washer fluid where you fill up and absoultely make sure it does not have Glycol in it, glycol is more common up north for its lower freezing point.
Secondly, I would strongly recommend dropping the compression to 10.7:1 this is a full point done with thicker head gasket and ARP studs torqued to 44 ft. lb.
Spinning a stage 2 supercharger at 17 lbs. also puts it on it's outer most boost level where more heat is generated but will be cooled by your water meth system.
Factory fuel pump must be removed from tank and external pump kit installed.
larger injectors to have adequate fuel supply above 14 psi.
RB3 Fuel and timing computer to replace your dobek credit card fuel box.
A custom tune on the dyno to bring all this together.
Entirely new clutch combination, and a Seat Belt LOL!
I can guide you through all this or provide a turn key solution for you.
Ted.
Obviously your looking to do this on pump gas, with Water meth.
All this can be done if you want a bigger baby sitting job.
You must be able to buy water meth or Washer fluid where you fill up and absoultely make sure it does not have Glycol in it, glycol is more common up north for its lower freezing point.
Secondly, I would strongly recommend dropping the compression to 10.7:1 this is a full point done with thicker head gasket and ARP studs torqued to 44 ft. lb.
Spinning a stage 2 supercharger at 17 lbs. also puts it on it's outer most boost level where more heat is generated but will be cooled by your water meth system.
Factory fuel pump must be removed from tank and external pump kit installed.
larger injectors to have adequate fuel supply above 14 psi.
RB3 Fuel and timing computer to replace your dobek credit card fuel box.
A custom tune on the dyno to bring all this together.
Entirely new clutch combination, and a Seat Belt LOL!
I can guide you through all this or provide a turn key solution for you.
Ted.


mulot30th
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osp drag race sled (apex engine based)
insane said:MulotTurbo said:I rode 700 miles at anywhere from 16 to 19# of boost this winter on the trail. Just have to be polite with throttle when on a tight trail through trees.
I plan to ride MORE miles than that next winter in this sled while running anywhere from 20 to 28# of boost by the way.
Now that's what I'm talking about. You guys with the chargers, turbo and super, are pioneers. These 4 stroke motors are by all acounts, wether you are a fan or not, gifts from the snowmobile gods. I had a question and Yammiboost and MulotTurbo tried to help out. I could've googled my question and got a bunch of paid advertisements, instead I went to site blue and got some real world opinions and some facts. Hey MulotTurbo, did you have to modify your pistons and rods along with the head studs to run that pressure? Sorry about getting so personal but it sounds like you are playing up where I am looking to go.![]()
Carrilo rods and wiseco 10-1 pistons I had this winter.
next winter... engine fully done. higher boost.


sheetwright
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So what is a comfortable amount of boost on a stage two for a trail sled? Ulmer was saying to go 9-10lb's on mine since it is a stage two, and some guys are saying 7lbs? I was thinking 12lbs, but that might be to much from what I am hearing. I am doing the exact same thing except on a Nytro, but my Pistons and all have been changed by hauk, and are ready for a little abuse
Not trying to rob your post. Just a very similar project, and it sounds like we are trying to get the same results


Not trying to rob your post. Just a very similar project, and it sounds like we are trying to get the same results

Ted Jannetty
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I have to keep reminding everyone it is all about the almighty HP limiter
OCTANE!
Lower compression allows higher boost on same octane.
example, 7 psi on stock engine with 93 octane or 11 psi with 10.7 on 93 octane.
OCTANE!
Lower compression allows higher boost on same octane.
example, 7 psi on stock engine with 93 octane or 11 psi with 10.7 on 93 octane.
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