My new RX Warrior and a few questions

the front suspension is easy to work on, adjusting the preload on the front shocks will make a huge difference on control. Once again, just raise with a floor jack until the skis are just off of the ground, the loosen top nuts on shocks and loosen until the spring is loose to turn by hand, tighten up the lock nuts and lower. Your a-arms should be level or almost level.

Carbides-again with a fully studded track, you want at least 6", I ran 8" Bergstrom triples. You have to consider that you have a 136" track with a lot of studs, even a 121 pushes in the corners, yours will push like a freight train w/o long carbides. Definitely shim those skis! This will almost elimate all darting.

Riding Tip - these sleds have inherent problems in the corners with ski lift and push. The engine braking is strong, (most times don't even need to touch the brake lever), so JUST before the curve, let off of the throttle, the nose will dive due to the engine braking, this lowers the center of gravity, then as you are a quarter to a third of the way into the curve, pin it. With the pre-load reduced, the skis shimmed, and long carbides, it will rail.
 
i can't wait to ride!

do i need to roll sled to adjust the FRA trail side or can i do it upright?
 
you can do it upright. i usually do mine with it on its side.
 
After adjusting the preload and getting the sag more within spec, she is sitting up a little prettier. I know it doesn't really matter if it looks like the back is up when it's just sitting. But, I think it looks better than when the rear is closer to the ground.

I picked up a trailerable cover-all cover. Most of the transporting will be done in the back of my truck so coverage won't be a huge issue. Cover seems to fit well. In the pics, none of the straps are tightened. I like that it covers everything including the back of the tunnel. It has a couple nice vents in the back, an attached storage bag, and easy access to the gas tank. I'm happy with the material. We'll see how it does through the winter. For now I'm keeping it loosely covered and then have a silver tarp over it. After I bought my boat 8 years ago, I quickly learned that storage and/or a good and tight fitting cover are incredibly important.

Has anyone figured out an easy way to use the tunnel for storage without modifying the exhaust? I was thinking maybe a heavy duty dry bag strapped back there. It sounds like people have had issues with the exhaust melting things. Or maybe a metal box. I'd probably just keep a come along, tow straps, and tools back there so it doesn't have to be the best storage. The sled doesn't come with any storage and I'm planning on a seat jack. So saddle bags might be out of the question. If i get the seat jack, I'll hopefully be able to strap things to the back of it, above the exhaust. Does anyone have pictures of the tank bags? I was not able to find any when I searched.

I plan to get her in the garage within the next few weeks to start checking over the engine. The guy before said he changed the coolant, oil, and greased everything. I trust him so I probably won't change the oil, but i'll make sure it looks new. I plan to change the plugs, check chain tension and relube. I probably should drain the gas just to be safe.

Also, there is a clearish yellow tube that runs across the front of the carb rack that appears to have been cut and then duct taped back together. The other end of it is open and down on the right side of the engine. Is it just a vent tube? I can get a pic

Thanks!
 

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My exchanger was getting nicks by my studs so I added thicker tunnel protectors. All that did was cause the suspension ie track to bottom out on the tunnel protectors. So basicly by adding the thicker protectors I reduced suspension travel.

So I removed the protectors and exchaanger and went with the Apex fan setup. No more problems all around. Full suspension travel and better cooling even at slow speeds because it has a fan pushing air through it even when barely or not moving at all.

Sticky at top of page

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=64128
 
spudski67 said:
Also, there is a clearish yellow tube that runs across the front of the carb rack that appears to have been cut and then duct taped back together. The other end of it is open and down on the right side of the engine. Is it just a vent tube? I can get a pic

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Sounds like the vent tubes. There should be two of them one on each side.
 
on the topic of the rx warrior... I just bought one 2 days ago and its my first 4 stroke *take a bow, take a bow* It has the extra heat exchanger on the back and also has an aftermarket temp. gauge hooked into the coolant lines coming out of the head. how hot is "hot"? What are you thoughts on the e3 plugs in the warrior? (I run them in almost everything I own) Also the clutch doesnt engage till a really high rpm then grabs hard (hard enough for the skis to nearly come off the ground) is this normal or has a clutch kit been installed?
 
I think idle is 1350 +/- 100 rpm and clutch engagement is 3600 +/- 200 rpm. If yours engages higher than that it could be aftermarket or in need of adjustment. Standard plug is NGK CR9E and some use CR10E for better performance but they are colder according to this thread:
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... cr9e+cr10e
 
YammyRX1 said:
I think idle is 1350 +/- 100 rpm and clutch engagement is 3600 +/- 200 rpm. If yours engages higher than that it could be aftermarket or in need of adjustment. Standard plug is NGK CR9E and some use CR10E for better performance but they are colder according to this thread:
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... cr9e+cr10e
Click to expand...

its the same plug in my wr450 e3.38. and it engages at about 4000rpm
 
sounds like you need a new primary spring or at the very least the clutch needs to come apart and be cleaned/inspected.

i will have to check mine as i have ulmers clutch kit in mine. made a big difference in how it performed.
 
maim said:
sounds like you need a new primary spring or at the very least the clutch needs to come apart and be cleaned/inspected.

i will have to check mine as i have ulmers clutch kit in mine. made a big difference in how it performed.
Click to expand...

will check everything at first snowfall!
 
maim said:
sounds like you need a new primary spring or at the very least the clutch needs to come apart and be cleaned/inspected.

i will have to check mine as i have ulmers clutch kit in mine. made a big difference in how it performed.
Click to expand...

Im guessing it has an aggressive clutch kit cause the previous owner added a bar riser, mountain bar, mountain skis, and a high rise seat as well
 
then i would clean it first as the belt dust will gum them up over time. thanks for reminding me i need to do mine too!
 
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