kinger
VIP Member
Wondering what the general principles are on suspension design in relation to the rear suspension position in the tunnel compared to the front suspension.
For my specific example I would like to mount my ZX2 rear suspension 2-3" lower then it is now for installing a larger lug track and riding in deep powder only out west. When back on the trail I would relocate back to proper positon.
I tired this long ago with a edge suspension and leaving the front bolt in the right position and raising the rear end to give me more clearance in the back end but it ended up (at the advice of ahicks) coupling the suspension just sitting there and it would go down and not come back up after a bump. So I learned from that, the mount points would have to be lowered at the same proportions. What else will I screw up by doing this?
I would really like to have a sled I can convert from a 162 to a 121 back and forth with no coolant mods so I would like to lower the suspension enough to clear my rear heat exchanger with a 2.25" lug track. I am alos going to leave my stud protectors in and notch the track, I'll swap drivers to ge the right clearance there so I'm basically trying to figure out the suspension 'depth' I know it would look wierd being REALLY tall, not handle on a trails at all, but hopefully provide some in powder.
Is there a ratio of ground level to suspension points either on the front or rear that makes sense or anything like that? Thanks a lot guys!
For my specific example I would like to mount my ZX2 rear suspension 2-3" lower then it is now for installing a larger lug track and riding in deep powder only out west. When back on the trail I would relocate back to proper positon.
I tired this long ago with a edge suspension and leaving the front bolt in the right position and raising the rear end to give me more clearance in the back end but it ended up (at the advice of ahicks) coupling the suspension just sitting there and it would go down and not come back up after a bump. So I learned from that, the mount points would have to be lowered at the same proportions. What else will I screw up by doing this?
I would really like to have a sled I can convert from a 162 to a 121 back and forth with no coolant mods so I would like to lower the suspension enough to clear my rear heat exchanger with a 2.25" lug track. I am alos going to leave my stud protectors in and notch the track, I'll swap drivers to ge the right clearance there so I'm basically trying to figure out the suspension 'depth' I know it would look wierd being REALLY tall, not handle on a trails at all, but hopefully provide some in powder.
Is there a ratio of ground level to suspension points either on the front or rear that makes sense or anything like that? Thanks a lot guys!
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
If the sled is handling well now, I would get the height dimension of the front end prior to modifying or changing anything. Then figure out a way to support it securely at that same height so you can dink around with the back end without it falling down or changing. Maybe somewhere in the area of the lower front a-arm mount?
From there, I'm not familiar with how the ZX mounts. But if it were a Poo/Cat/Doo suspension, I would measure from the ground up to both the front and rear mounting points, with the sled unloaded, and prior to any work, but with the front end blocked.
Then I'd drop/pull the suspension, lift the back up the amount you want, hold it there, and measure the front mounting point to see how far it moved. That's the distance you'll want to drop it for the amount you've lifted the back to stay "in sync" front/middle/rear.
Blocking the front end prior to doing any of this is critacal. If you skip that step, there is no doubt you'll end up with your front skid mounted too high.
You'll need to go to smaller drivers to give you front heat exchanger clearance as well? -Al
From there, I'm not familiar with how the ZX mounts. But if it were a Poo/Cat/Doo suspension, I would measure from the ground up to both the front and rear mounting points, with the sled unloaded, and prior to any work, but with the front end blocked.
Then I'd drop/pull the suspension, lift the back up the amount you want, hold it there, and measure the front mounting point to see how far it moved. That's the distance you'll want to drop it for the amount you've lifted the back to stay "in sync" front/middle/rear.
Blocking the front end prior to doing any of this is critacal. If you skip that step, there is no doubt you'll end up with your front skid mounted too high.
You'll need to go to smaller drivers to give you front heat exchanger clearance as well? -Al
kinger
VIP Member
That is easy enough to do, almost like creating a lift kit in a sense to take all the measurements and get the ratio of every inch the back mount goes down the front must go "X" once you know that I guess I can raise it up as far as I can so the front mount is still above the footwell and I can get a wrench on it. Then make teh drop down plates for the rear. Man it will look funny!
Yeah I am trying to do everything on the cheap and will use apex 7T 3 pitch drivers on a spare axle I have. Thanks!
Yeah I am trying to do everything on the cheap and will use apex 7T 3 pitch drivers on a spare axle I have. Thanks!
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
Regarding "getting a wrench on it", don't forget about allen bolts if things start getting tight to something. You can set them up right next to something without that issue.
Best of luck! -Al
Best of luck! -Al
tkuss
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Kinger check out this thread, and contact quantum velocity, looks like they will be able to help you out.
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=79344&highlight=Boivin
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=79344&highlight=Boivin
kinger
VIP Member
Thanks tkuss, that is from 08 but I will try and get a hold of him. Looks to be exactly what I am looking for.
I spoke with QV a couple weeks ago and he has the ability to make an external mounting plates as well as internal!!
kinger
VIP Member
External vs internal? Hopefully he responds to my note othewise I will call.
outside of the tunnel and inside - sorry!
kinger
VIP Member
Talked to Jeff today, what a nice guy. Sent me the universal kit instructions which are AWESOME for determing the mount points of the skid. You can use driver pitch, lug height of the track, etc to place that baby perfectly in the tunnel. I'm a happy man. Garage post coming soon to document the new sled. Thanks guys!!
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