sledhead21
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I bought a 2010 nytro mtx with a 163. It has a stage 1 mpi supercharger. the thing runs like crap? I am getting out climbed by anything and everything. It is set up to mpi specifications. It doesn't seem like it builds boost. You can hear the blow off valve but doesn't seem to pull. When I climb a hill I can only pull 82-8400rpm. On the trail I can hit 8900 no problems. Anyone have any ideas?
yooper1
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What does your boost and A/F gauge read?
sledhead21
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They never put that on when I bought the sled? My dealership put it on the supercharger. Should it of been in the package when I bought the sled?
yooper1
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Not sure, I have both but installed them. Hard to say when you don't know what the motor is doing? Did it run right before?
sledhead21
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I bought it in november it was a carry over. So I never rode the sled without a supercharger. Do I have to put one of those on to figure out the problem?
yooper1
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Sent you a pm
nate007
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sledhead21,
Please add your location to your site profile, per site rules. Thanks
Please add your location to your site profile, per site rules. Thanks
mbarryracing
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Running a boosted sled without even as much as a boost gauge is like trying to take a leak with your zipper up...
What did they put in it for clutching?
What did they put in it for clutching?
nate007
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Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't the dealer installed versions a "dummed down" mountain version?
If so, it may be running pretty lean, and may be dangerous to ride! Engines don't need as much fuel at higher elevations, and the only way to know what's going on is to add a wideband before riding it again!
Although it will kill your sensor pretty fast, I'd run at least a 50/50 race fuel mix to help avoid detonation while you work on tuning it, and hopefully have it dialed in before the sensor craps out..
Also, I'd personally change the spark plugs to the CR10ek's, as they are a slightly colder plug, and almost everybody has had better luck running them, and generally, boosted motors need one step colder plugs as a minimum.
For the rpm issues you're having, make sure the major components are in correct working order such as the drive belt, (check it's height in the sheaves), your BOV, ( depending on brand/model there should be a method for testing it's blow off pressure, and you may have to add a gauge), and also a long shot but check your track tension? If the track is too tight it might have a harder time when the stress is higher on it..
Don't get overwhelmed, just get the manuals for whatever various equipment you're running, verify them one by one, and start with the easy/ simple stuff!
Get some gauges on that thing too!
If so, it may be running pretty lean, and may be dangerous to ride! Engines don't need as much fuel at higher elevations, and the only way to know what's going on is to add a wideband before riding it again!
Although it will kill your sensor pretty fast, I'd run at least a 50/50 race fuel mix to help avoid detonation while you work on tuning it, and hopefully have it dialed in before the sensor craps out..
Also, I'd personally change the spark plugs to the CR10ek's, as they are a slightly colder plug, and almost everybody has had better luck running them, and generally, boosted motors need one step colder plugs as a minimum.
For the rpm issues you're having, make sure the major components are in correct working order such as the drive belt, (check it's height in the sheaves), your BOV, ( depending on brand/model there should be a method for testing it's blow off pressure, and you may have to add a gauge), and also a long shot but check your track tension? If the track is too tight it might have a harder time when the stress is higher on it..
Don't get overwhelmed, just get the manuals for whatever various equipment you're running, verify them one by one, and start with the easy/ simple stuff!
Get some gauges on that thing too!
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