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ohlins ec shock question -- SOLVED!--

dumb question but you have changed the mode in the gauge cluster to shock mode correct?
 

yes that is what i cant acess
 
10-4
 
tried another known good ecu from a apex and shock icon worked perfect, unplugged and plugged mine back in nuthin! , tried other one again, worked! so i guess i need to find a known good used ecu for sale! if anyone has one let me know
 
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i guess all ecus r the same from 06-10 apex ltx, gt,attack , rtx ect, even if it didnt come with ohlins shock all the ecus or cdi box have this function! mtx r different
 
Sorry I didn't see this post sooner but would have recommended an ecu swap after reading through this post - we have also seen this happen on a few sleds with the electric ohlins shock over the years - it doesn't seem to ever happen under normal conditions but once the wires get damaged in the skid I believe if the wires short across each other (maybe even mutiple times while riding) they can smoke the shock circuit of the ecu. The good news is it only seems to effect the shock circuit of the ecu as I have seen an apex ecu with a bad shock circuit continue to run the sled with no other ill effects for many more miles (10k+).
 
ya mine works fine just shock? my wires went broke or shorted thiugh and fuse wasnt blown , just quit working? i just found a used ecm and ordered, was wondering if i should put another lower amp fuse somehere to protect ecu better??
 
thor452 said:
head unit has to be one for ec shock or it wont work.
Click to expand...
iv herd that but also herd they all will work to? havent got to deep into checking because mine has it forsure!!
 
The ecu can be for any model 2006-2010 apex/attak (just maybe not an mtx - not sure on that though...) as any apex/attak with a monoshock suspension had the ability to run that electric ohlins shock. As far as trying a different fuse goes ??? I'm not really sure that would make much difference.... I believe the ecu is controlling the ground side of that circuit.
 
installed another lower amp fuse (5 amp), to wire from plug at rev lever to wire going to ecu, to mabe prevent this again?
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Interesting read. I bought a clean used 2007 Attak GT in Michigan from a dealer 2 years ago. It was babied but has over 10,000 miles. Last season while on my trip up there my rear suspension was dragging azz. Well because I was a long ways from home I brought it into that same dealer. They said the rear Ohlins shock solenoid valve was bad. They put in a new SV and said they rebuilt the shock....gas/oil/seals (so they said). Cost me $515.00....ouch! I think I put on about 350 miles after that and we went home.

Now just this weekend I pulled the machine out and took it for a spin locally being we have just enough snow to get out. It's flat again and is sagging. By running shock up/down with switch it does nothing. The icon does come up though on the gauges. I pulled it and I took the shock into my guy that rebuilds shock locally and he said it needs a rebuild. I will know more after he rips into it. Gotta wonder if the dealer really did rebuild it.

I am not sure what the ohm reading of the SV is supposed to be. I ohm'd it out with my Fluke multi-meter and I got 4.1 ohms. (I am an electrician by trade). When I pulled the shock out and disconnected the leads I noticed either the dealer or the previous owner had wrapped the leads from the tunnel to back to the source with electrical tape. That is not a good sign IMHO. Wondering if I should replace those leads going back. Wrapping ELEC tape is a bad idea. Should always use heat shrink wrap otherwise the moisture gets inside. I guess I need to resolve this in 30 days before I go to Michigan.
 
4.1 ohms is good, i believe the rang is 4-5.5 , if the icon is on dash its workin, shock mabe needs rebuilt, had mine done at shoch tec for like 100 bucks with shipping and it was revalved! cheap, where u goin in mi? planning to go to gaylord area end of jan was wondering if they had snow and how it is!!
 
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