Oils chaincase/motor oil...Yamaha lube, or Amsoil fully synthetic??

[Devin yamaha man]

Hey guys just looking for advice on what oils to use in the phazer...My mechanic swears by Amsoil fully synthetic 4 stroke motor oil and chaincase oil..And the yamaha guys at the dealer are obviously saying stay away from those and use the semi-synthetic yamalube, aswell with yamaha lube chaincase oil. The question is.....which one is better?

 

[Voda2000]

I'd go with Yamaha the guys designed your sled to work with it.

 

[Devin yamaha man]

food for thought....my mechanic also said the synthetic motor oil would get me close to 5000-7000k per oil change which i thought was crazy.....I havent changed the oil yet by my yamalube semi synthetic is looking pretty black when I checked the dipstick

 

[Voda2000]

My F150 gets almost 16,000km (10,000mi) between oil changes on a semi synthetic.

That said maybe if you are putting on 5000km per year it's worth it but for me I don't put that much on and just change the oil once a year in my Phazer.

 

[ATV PRO #11]

I'd go with Yamaha the guys designed your sled to work with it.

I too would suggest staying with Yamaha. Particularlily because this is such a unique engine/design. With change intervals we have even with sythetic it will get, "look", dirty/dark and Personally I wouldn't push the oil that long anyway.
What i've done in the past with everything I own with the exception of my eXcursion, is change the filter on every second oil change. My race quad, I change every 3rd ride (practice or racing) and I've just used crappy tire Castrol 4stroke oil. But the sled, Yamalube. I've seen 1 post with engine failure and know of one locally (slapped turbo on and didn't follow through with other mods that should have been done). IMHO, I wouldn't mess with what works.
I saw in another post of yours, your grommet looked melted. That may just be a reaction between the type of case oil the PO used or topped off with.
Learnt that at the Bio-Diesel plant I worked at for many years. Viton, EPDM, rubber ect ect all have certain break down limitations. Such as the gaskets on our machines. Depending on what their made of, maybe a lubrication additive in the say, Amsoil, may not be compatable with the gasket. Food for thought.

 

[ATV PRO #11]

My F150 gets almost 16,000km (10,000mi) between oil changes on a semi synthetic.

That said maybe if you are putting on 5000km per year it's worth it but for me I don't put that much on and just change the oil once a year in my Phazer.

Ur pushin it Voda!!

 

[Voda2000]

Ur pushin it Voda!!

That's right from Ford. I just follow when the truck tells me to change my oil. It adjust based on usage, temperature, towing, etc.

I've seen some test of oil from truck that high and the lab results predicted the oil would be good for another 5000km. Today's motors run a lot cleaner than they used to.

 

[Voda2000]

I too would suggest staying with Yamaha. Particularlily because this is such a unique engine/design. With change intervals we have even with sythetic it will get, "look", dirty/dark and Personally I wouldn't push the oil that long anyway.
What i've done in the past with everything I own with the exception of my eXcursion, is change the filter on every second oil change. My race quad, I change every 3rd ride (practice or racing) and I've just used crappy tire Castrol 4stroke oil. But the sled, Yamalube. I've seen 1 post with engine failure and know of one locally (slapped turbo on and didn't follow through with other mods that should have been done). IMHO, I wouldn't mess with what works.
I saw in another post of yours, your grommet looked melted. That may just be a reaction between the type of case oil the PO used or topped off with.
Learnt that at the Bio-Diesel plant I worked at for many years. Viton, EPDM, rubber ect ect all have certain break down limitations. Such as the gaskets on our machines. Depending on what their made of, maybe a lubrication additive in the say, Amsoil, may not be compatable with the gasket. Food for thought.

Good point. My other hobby is British cars and certain brake fluids will turn the seals to mush.

 

[kirkswim]

From experience with my rx1warrior use the synthetic yamaha lube

https://www.yamahapartsandaccessori...ith-ester?b=Engine+Oils&d=30|30&dealernumber=

With the semi-synthetic it would start to -30C fur with the full sythetic yamah lube I have started it down to -40C not plugged in. Also it is safe for any wet clutches, and seal in your yamaha.

 

[ATV PRO #11]

.And the yamaha guys at the dealer are obviously saying stay away from those and use the semi-synthetic yamalube, aswell with yamaha lube chaincase oil. The question is.....which one is better?

You will get every answer under the sun on this one.

Good point. My other hobby is British cars and certain brake fluids will turn the seals to mush.

Bio-Diesel turns many to mush!! Best penitrating oil I've ever used, carb cleaner, oxidation remover ect ect. I still have some I use to this day.

That's right from Ford. I just follow when the truck tells me to change my oil. It adjust based on usage, temperature, towing, etc.

I've seen some test of oil from truck that high and the lab results predicted the oil would be good for another 5000km. Today's motors run a lot cleaner than they used to.

Blackstone out of AB or MB Hydro Lab in Selkirk? I've used MB Hydro lab to test for lubricity many times. Just razzin on the pushin part. I know many that don't maintain and push things even further.......crazyness sorry

 

[Voda2000]

No worries I don't mind a bit of razzing. I guess I'll see in a few years how it worked.

The tests were from Blackstone, but not my sample I've just read about them else where. Didn't know MB hydro has a lab that does that.

 

[ATV PRO #11]

No worries I don't mind a bit of razzing. I guess I'll see in a few years how it worked.

The tests were from Blackstone, but not my sample I've just read about them else where. Didn't know MB hydro has a lab that does that.

We took our fuel to Walkeim at Selkirk Lab. To confirm they do used oil I can't, but they did test our fuel to meet d6751 requirements. SUPER STRICT.
Would be the ulitmate test to answer Devin's question at the end of the day.
I know racers that swear by Lucas, Amsoil, Yamalube ect. With this particilar sled, i'd stick with Yamalube.

 

[ATV PRO #11]

From experience with my rx1warrior use the synthetic yamaha lube

https://www.yamahapartsandaccessories.com/shop/product/details/0w-40-snowmobile-full-synthetic-with-ester?b=Engine Oils&d=30|30&dealernumber=

With the semi-synthetic it would start to -30C fur with the full sythetic yamah lube I have started it down to -40C not plugged in. Also it is safe for any wet clutches, and seal in your yamaha.

Interesting link. Yamalube uses "Esters" for full synthetic. Bio-Fuel is an "Ester" until it manipulated to meet d6751. Then you call it Diesel. Either way,
It's lubricity factor blows the doors off anything it goes up against.

 

[Devin yamaha man]

Very good points from all of you. I think with oils it comes down to opinion....Im not too sure if there any phazer motor failures on this site related to fully synthetic oils.
I do know my mechanic as been doing his job for 20+ years now and he runs his amsoil fully synthetic in all of his yamaha toys including the 450 race quads..

 

[ATV PRO #11]

Very good points from all of you. I think with oils it comes down to opinion....Im not too sure if there any phazer motor failures on this site related to fully synthetic oils.
I do know my mechanic as been doing his job for 20+ years now and he runs his amsoil fully synthetic in all of his yamaha toys including the 450 race quads..

Where ya from Devin?