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owner oil change

Have you ever compared the guts of A purolator pure to that of A Yamaha one? I wouldnt say that the purolator pure is that great of A filter I will stick with the Yamaha one myself...
 

Re: oil change

CaptCaper said:
DANX123 said:
ive got 2200 miles on mine and this is the 3rd oil and filter change. better safe than sorry. its just way to complicated. very soft srews holding all items on and the bloddy screws holdings the ring around the riser allways turns the lock holding it. great sled but some of the ideas suck.
i have now cut a round hole in the bottom of the fairing under the oil tank and added a rubber plug. pop the plug and remove the bolt. 1 less step in the process.

DanX
What size plug did you use? Did you get it at NAPA? Is it a body plug?

I haven't been there yet (underneath to change the oil) but will have to soon. I will be getting to the 500 mile mark on my ATTAK.

Dealer told me $170. I want to do it this time..
i was thinking to drill below the oil tank and use my sxr's clutch round cover and the dealer also told me i dont need to change oil filter after 500 mile break in yea right :rocks:
 
Next time you make a trip to the junkyard(auto), go through the trunks of especially (foreign?) cars and pull out all sizes of rubber plugs up to 2.5 inches. Come in handy for lots of things.
 
imho the yamaha filter is not an equal to the pure one...open it up...also compare the type of filter media and the amount..
 
There's also a company named "Fumoto"? or something like that. They make a valve that will replace the drain plug, and you can put a short section of hose on it, and leavi it down near the cover plate. That way, you can just twist the valve when you pull the drain plug, and voila', no mess, and you don't have to remove the panel.
Personally, I'll pull all the panels at the end of the season so I can inspect, clean service, and spray everything with an anti-corrosion spray (WD-40).
 
I'm having to agree with doing it the long way sometimes. Sometimes the shortcuts come back to bite you. I had a momentary idea for making an access hole for the pan so that I wouldn't have to remove the skid plate. But then you probably have to start your drain bolt on the end of a socket which runs the risk of crossthreading and suddenly your great idea causes a bigger problem.
 
When changing mine the other day......

You know how those lowe side panel screws are well a PITA..... i took a 50 cent disposable paint roller tray, stuck it under the drain plug on the resevoir and walla, i hate those phillips screws on the bottom.....

and why in the hell did the dealer put the damn drain plug in with an impact(sure felt like it), that thing was so freakin tight.....
 
How many hours for a newbee to do the oil filter and oil change? How much money for the oil and filter now?

Darn...I just saw the weather they said it will warm up into the 50's Mon.

Oh well...might be a good day to do this oil change in my garage...
 
My first time oil and filter change took me about 2 hours. I think after doing it once it will take about hour and half. It cost me about 14 dollars for filter and i think it was about 25 $ for 4 quarts of yamalube 0-30.
 
I agree with nate007. It gets easier every time. If you change it at the end of each season, no matter what the miles, you can inspect, clean, & coat everything with whayever you may use. 12,000 maybe, but the taking apart & inspecting with a purpose will pay off.
 
I've done a few of these now, and the worst part seems to be the drain plug under the engine sump.Always VERY tight, had to replace one.Anyone have any tips for breaking this drain plug loose ?
 
done my very first oil change along with filter and i'm new to this 4 stroke yamaha sled. MAN piece of cake had no probs and only took me an hour love the ride no complaints woot woot :jump: :jump:
 
BTbt, I suspect the drain plug you are talking about is the 6mm Allen bolt on the bottom of the pan. I recommend using a 6mm 3/8 Allen socket on a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter on a 1/2 inch power bar or ratchet to remove. Too much flex in a regular L shaped Allen wrench. When you put it back on, manual says to torque to 22 ft.lbs.. I have not done my second oil change, but I suspect it should come off easier. If not, try 20 ft.lbs. and so on.
I have not heard complaints about the tank drain bolt. That is a 12mm bolt head and torqued to 12 ft.lbs..
 
Re: oil change

snoman said:
CaptCaper said:
DANX123 said:
ive got 2200 miles on mine and this is the 3rd oil and filter change. better safe than sorry. its just way to complicated. very soft srews holding all items on and the bloddy screws holdings the ring around the riser allways turns the lock holding it. great sled but some of the ideas suck.
i have now cut a round hole in the bottom of the fairing under the oil tank and added a rubber plug. pop the plug and remove the bolt. 1 less step in the process.

DanX
What size plug did you use? Did you get it at NAPA? Is it a body plug?

I haven't been there yet (underneath to change the oil) but will have to soon. I will be getting to the 500 mile mark on my ATTAK.

I USED A POLARIS SIDE PANEL CLUTCH PULLER HOLE PLUG . WORKED GREAT.-











Dealer told me $170. I want to do it this time..
i was thinking to drill below the oil tank and use my sxr's clutch round cover and the dealer also told me i dont need to change oil filter after 500 mile break in yea right :rocks:
 
nate007 said:
There's also a company named "Fumoto"? or something like that. They make a valve that will replace the drain plug, and you can put a short section of hose on it, and leavi it down near the cover plate. That way, you can just twist the valve when you pull the drain plug, and voila', no mess, and you don't have to remove the panel.
Personally, I'll pull all the panels at the end of the season so I can inspect, clean service, and spray everything with an anti-corrosion spray (WD-40).

I have a Fumoto Valve on my Diesel Truck. It takes 4 gallons of oil so when I am draining I can drain half, dispose of it and then go back and drain the other half. It is awesome!!! I never even thought of it for my Attak. Great Idea!!!!! having only 70 miles on mine I haven't got in there to see how much room there is under the pan.

Lots of guys worry about it getting broken off. If you hit the drain valve that hard you are probally going to rip your whole oil pan of. They seem to be pretty tough.

http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/

Trev
 


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