dracutaco
Extreme
can you put a polaris clutch on a rx1?
n2oiroc
Expert
i really dont see a point though. instead of changing rivets around, you have to buy new weights to tune it.
Not really a matter of the Yamaha clutch being incapable of doing the job, but the fact that there are more tuning parts available for less money. The Yamaha clutch actually has more tuning options for fine tuning. Another plus to the Polaris is the ability to run in "overdrive" without a speed ring, secondary mods still necessary though.
black john
TY 4 Stroke Guru
clutch
and there only about a 1/4 of an inch smaller. thats why you will never need to worry about o/d .
and there only about a 1/4 of an inch smaller. thats why you will never need to worry about o/d .
black john
TY 4 Stroke Guru
clutch
and also why would you want to run with 1/4 in bolt pivot pins when yamaha,s are 9mm hard pins. much stronger and they dont were out .
and also why would you want to run with 1/4 in bolt pivot pins when yamaha,s are 9mm hard pins. much stronger and they dont were out .
dracutaco
Extreme
setups
anyone have any good starting points for setting up polaris primary?
anyone have any good starting points for setting up polaris primary?
Here’s my WAG (wild azz guess)… I would try the 62g MTXs (SLP part number 40-81 $99.95)… They come with six 3g steel rivets and six 1g aluminum rivets… If your happy with your current secondary setup then all you need to do is get your RPM right, which, is the main function of the primary… I would run them empty at first to test… Add rivets (same as Yamaha) if your rpm is high… This is with a Polaris Red/White 100-220 (Polaris part number 7041150)… If it under revs go to a stiffer primary spring like a Polaris Red 120-245 (Polaris part number 7041083) or a Polaris Blue 120-300 (Polaris part number 7041080) or an even higher rate if needed but it’s unlikely you'll need to go that high… I only suggest the MTXs if you’re trying to save some cash… I run the Supertips but they cost about twice as much.
SLP MTX weights
http://www.slp.cc/img/products/large/mtx-weight.gif
I noted that on my Yamaha clutches at full shift (clutch locked closed) there was 7mm left untouched in the top of the primary and 7mm left untouched at the bottom of the secondary… I ran a Dalton helix that was machined to shift out farther than stock but I didn't install the OD sheave because something about having one sheave at 14* and one sheave at 12.5* didn't sit right with me, seems to me it would run the belt cockeyed through the sheaves and you would lose belt contact surface… Machining the sheave even thinner to get full shift, not an option as far as I was concerned… My P85/TEAM clutches use the entire machined face from top to bottom… I would imagine it’s very close to the same ratios if you measured the belts actual contact patches… I’ve never had a component failure with either brand on any of my modified sleds so I guess they are both durable enough… Although, I have replaced Yamaha clutches in the past because of cracked sheaves, which I attribute to the 8DN belt not the clutch itself… 1997, if I recall, Yamaha couldn’t get their factory recommended clutching and gearing setups to quit eating belts so their fix was the mighty 8DN belt… The 8DN is so hard it will actually eat the clutch before it fails……now that’s irony.
Don’t misunderstand me here on these recent P85/TEAM clutch posts, I’m not suggesting everyone run out and buy new clutches, that would be ridiculous, I’m just answering questions and posting what I have experienced… I choose to run the P85/TEAM combo and I prefer them to the Yamaha clutches for the conditions I ride in (no trail riding, no lake racing, no touring)… Not that they wouldn’t work for that, it’s just that I have no experience with mine in those conditions… The P85/TEAM clutches are certainly a cost effective alternative if, for whatever reason, you must replace one of your clutches, you’re on a budget, and don't want to pay Yamaha prices.
SLP MTX weights
http://www.slp.cc/img/products/large/mtx-weight.gif
I noted that on my Yamaha clutches at full shift (clutch locked closed) there was 7mm left untouched in the top of the primary and 7mm left untouched at the bottom of the secondary… I ran a Dalton helix that was machined to shift out farther than stock but I didn't install the OD sheave because something about having one sheave at 14* and one sheave at 12.5* didn't sit right with me, seems to me it would run the belt cockeyed through the sheaves and you would lose belt contact surface… Machining the sheave even thinner to get full shift, not an option as far as I was concerned… My P85/TEAM clutches use the entire machined face from top to bottom… I would imagine it’s very close to the same ratios if you measured the belts actual contact patches… I’ve never had a component failure with either brand on any of my modified sleds so I guess they are both durable enough… Although, I have replaced Yamaha clutches in the past because of cracked sheaves, which I attribute to the 8DN belt not the clutch itself… 1997, if I recall, Yamaha couldn’t get their factory recommended clutching and gearing setups to quit eating belts so their fix was the mighty 8DN belt… The 8DN is so hard it will actually eat the clutch before it fails……now that’s irony.
Don’t misunderstand me here on these recent P85/TEAM clutch posts, I’m not suggesting everyone run out and buy new clutches, that would be ridiculous, I’m just answering questions and posting what I have experienced… I choose to run the P85/TEAM combo and I prefer them to the Yamaha clutches for the conditions I ride in (no trail riding, no lake racing, no touring)… Not that they wouldn’t work for that, it’s just that I have no experience with mine in those conditions… The P85/TEAM clutches are certainly a cost effective alternative if, for whatever reason, you must replace one of your clutches, you’re on a budget, and don't want to pay Yamaha prices.
snowbeast
TY 4 Stroke God
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I have run poo for years,trust me the yammi clutch is far superior to the poo,much more options for the yammi,and this overdrive thing is bs the yammi clutch is larger dia. you have more surface to run your belt for more ratio with our stock apex clutch,if you want to change out the sheeve go back thru the clutch manifest of yamaha back to the srx days the had a sheeve that closed all the way up,so you could use all of your belt,oh ya try and change out roolers on a poo pos clutch vrs a yammi clutch,i can change to diff. dia rollers for better belt pinch on my apex cant do that on a poo clutch,not that you cant punch out the pin and change the roller out,cause you can do that,but they dont use it to tune the primary with,like yammi does.Mongo 1 said:
snowbeast
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2003
- Messages
- 5,498
- Age
- 69
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- Country
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- Snowmobile
- 2015 apex xtx traded for a 2017 sidewinder L-tx-le
- yes
- YOUTUBE
- yes
I have had failed clutchs and so many damn belts blow up with poos clutchs with team secondarys i lost count,i would not put that combo back on any sled i owne,team just plain sucks,to many options,yet not the correct ones in most cases,if all you are doing is drag racing in a straight line for 1/4 mile to a time i guess it dont matter,but for trail/crosscountry riding leave on your yammi clutch,and you are 100% correct about the yammi belts being so hard they wear a groove into the sheeve,but i have seen this on poos to,plus there belts dont hold up to much side pressure,and wham need new sturrips and clutch covers and in some cases belley pans,such as our 03 prox700 i have sitting in my garage right now!!HAMMER said:
black john
TY 4 Stroke Guru
CLUTCH,S
that must be why arctic cat has copyed some yamaha idais int there clutches like 9mm pins larger diamiter sheves. differnt shaped arms larger center posts and allen screws to lock the pins to the sheve,s. i have a poo guy next door and he sent his cutch out to have the balence checked and guess what it was only 17 gram,s out . i have some of these clutches on the shelf my self in assorted states of disrepare out side covers cracked. center shafts worn like a banana and guess what you cant by these parts if you need them as they are only come as an complet clutch. you may not even the center bushings when they were out . note the smaller size is not to good fo those of use that run with in 2-3 mill,s of the top of the sheves as we would be out of the top of a poo clutch witch would result some thing not so good (kaboom). and after a short run on the lake 20-25 miles we stop and i wait for the do and poo guys to catch up we all open ower hoods and check ower clutches and belt ,s i can hold hands on all of my clutches and belt the others and so hot that you cant get within 6-8 in,s of them belts are melting . thats poor effency when you turn your hp it to heat insterd of puting hp to the track
that must be why arctic cat has copyed some yamaha idais int there clutches like 9mm pins larger diamiter sheves. differnt shaped arms larger center posts and allen screws to lock the pins to the sheve,s. i have a poo guy next door and he sent his cutch out to have the balence checked and guess what it was only 17 gram,s out . i have some of these clutches on the shelf my self in assorted states of disrepare out side covers cracked. center shafts worn like a banana and guess what you cant by these parts if you need them as they are only come as an complet clutch. you may not even the center bushings when they were out . note the smaller size is not to good fo those of use that run with in 2-3 mill,s of the top of the sheves as we would be out of the top of a poo clutch witch would result some thing not so good (kaboom). and after a short run on the lake 20-25 miles we stop and i wait for the do and poo guys to catch up we all open ower hoods and check ower clutches and belt ,s i can hold hands on all of my clutches and belt the others and so hot that you cant get within 6-8 in,s of them belts are melting . thats poor effency when you turn your hp it to heat insterd of puting hp to the track
alaskanbowtie
Expert
black john
TY 4 Stroke Guru
CLUTCH
the primary resion that most do not run yamaha clutch,s is the intall cost. as you can buy cat or po clutch,s new. all that realy needs to be done to the yamaha clutch,s other than your personal prefferace clutching is to take the belt side clerance down to at lest .020 tho from it,s stk .080-.090 tho this makes a big diffence in all around performace. i run my belt 2-3 mill,s from the top of the sheves on all most every ride.
i allso have a comet 4 pro thats a full 8 in di that i have run as well works good but i have to be carefull as i have pushed the belt out of the top of the sheves with rather unplesant results. 
the primary resion that most do not run yamaha clutch,s is the intall cost. as you can buy cat or po clutch,s new. all that realy needs to be done to the yamaha clutch,s other than your personal prefferace clutching is to take the belt side clerance down to at lest .020 tho from it,s stk .080-.090 tho this makes a big diffence in all around performace. i run my belt 2-3 mill,s from the top of the sheves on all most every ride.
i allso have a comet 4 pro thats a full 8 in di that i have run as well works good but i have to be carefull as i have pushed the belt out of the top of the sheves with rather unplesant results.
Hmmm……my P85/TEAM/Ultimax combo doesn't get too hot, eat belts, pins, bushings or any other part for that matter… Must be that my sleds are properly maintained, properly setup for my conditions, and the clutches are properly tuned… Yes, I think those things right there could be the determining factors of whether or not you see performance……or problems.
When my P85 primary is at full shift (moveable sheave cannot physically close any further) it will not push the belt out of the sheaves because the inside distance between the tops of the sheaves is greater than the width of the belt… I have overrun both the clutching and gearing on the top-end to where the rpms climbed 400-500rpm past the full shift point, without issue… This is running 22/40 gearing, 162x16x2.25 track, and 12lbs boost… The belt makes good contact with the sheave face, bottom to top, a total of 81mm.
There's no disputing the quality and the fit-n-finish of the Yamaha primary… But if there were an absolute performance advantage in the Yamaha clutches they would be the clutches that tuners/builders were looking to purchase… There would a demand for them and there would be examples of tuners/builders running them regardless of cost… The same tuners/builders that spend $15,000 on top of the $10,000 sled they just bought… These are the same type of people that would spend their money on billet clutches, 4-pros, and such without a peep about cost to run them on their mod Poo, Doo, or Cat… There would be jackshaft conversion kits to Yamaha clutches instead of the other way around… I've never even seen a Poo, Doo, or Cat guy looking to buy them used… I had the clutches off both my Viper and Apex for sale, CHEAP, and there were no Poo, Doo, or Cat guys looking to snatch them up for the incredible performance advantage… I finally sold them all separately to different Yamaha guys who's Yamaha clutches had exploded.
Again, I’m not anti-Yamaha clutches and I have not suggested that anyone replace thier perfectly good clutches… I just like different clutching is all.
When my P85 primary is at full shift (moveable sheave cannot physically close any further) it will not push the belt out of the sheaves because the inside distance between the tops of the sheaves is greater than the width of the belt… I have overrun both the clutching and gearing on the top-end to where the rpms climbed 400-500rpm past the full shift point, without issue… This is running 22/40 gearing, 162x16x2.25 track, and 12lbs boost… The belt makes good contact with the sheave face, bottom to top, a total of 81mm.
There's no disputing the quality and the fit-n-finish of the Yamaha primary… But if there were an absolute performance advantage in the Yamaha clutches they would be the clutches that tuners/builders were looking to purchase… There would a demand for them and there would be examples of tuners/builders running them regardless of cost… The same tuners/builders that spend $15,000 on top of the $10,000 sled they just bought… These are the same type of people that would spend their money on billet clutches, 4-pros, and such without a peep about cost to run them on their mod Poo, Doo, or Cat… There would be jackshaft conversion kits to Yamaha clutches instead of the other way around… I've never even seen a Poo, Doo, or Cat guy looking to buy them used… I had the clutches off both my Viper and Apex for sale, CHEAP, and there were no Poo, Doo, or Cat guys looking to snatch them up for the incredible performance advantage… I finally sold them all separately to different Yamaha guys who's Yamaha clutches had exploded.
Again, I’m not anti-Yamaha clutches and I have not suggested that anyone replace thier perfectly good clutches… I just like different clutching is all.
