"Pop" Rivets

[brianidaho]

I'm curious what rivets you guys are using for your "structural" mods, things like drop brackets, tunnels, extensions? Most common rivets are aluminum rivets with a steel mandrel, I'm a little concerned about corrosion with the dissimilar materials. Solid aluminum (al body and mandrel), stainless, and "structural" al-al rivets are available. I'm thinking I'm going to be ordering some from McMaster Carr, rather than my local hardware store, due to better selection and that a 100 pack from MC costs about the same as 10 pcs from my local HWS.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.

Bri

 

[Oak Hill]

I used the originals from Yamaha. Very tough.

 

[ViperTurboPete]

Do you need to use an air riveter or will a run of the mill rivet gun work??

 

[Frostbite]

Brian, I use "Cherry Max" rivets for my mods where I can.

I do use some "pop" type rivets when there are no structural stresses on the item.

I even use aircraft grade fasteners when the loads are substantial.

I have a huge can of Cherry Max if you need some.

Frosty

 

[Oak Hill]

Air rivet gun works well. I use a hand operated gun that has a hydraulic cylinder, small compact to access tight areas.

 

[powder muncher]

Cherry max are good but nothing can beat a good old solid rivet, it only takes a few $ to get a airhamer and a bucking bar the rivets are very cheap and most good sheet metal places have them, they hold way tighter and will not loosen up like most pop style rivets, they will also expand and fill a enlarged hole where a pop fastener will loosen almost immediately. The cherry rivets have a very important grip length , so it is not one fits all , but definitely the best pop style rivet.

 

[brianidaho]

http://www.hansonrivet.com/w24.htm

These guys have some specs on the Cherry and "PoP" ultragrip ones. Looks like the Pop ones have a higher shear strength. I think that's what McMaster carries, they are $20/100 pcs for 3/16. I'm thinking Yamaha gets like $1 each for theirs.

For materials, do you run Al rivets for most everything? I plated or stainless are stronger, but I'm concerned about corrosion with dissimilar metals. Also, can you use your basic light duty "pop rivet" tool on these or do they need something beefier? Pow M, I'm looking into solids too.

Bri

 

[powder muncher]

The steel rivets have a higher sheer strength but the hard steel against soft aluminum will loosen in time. All along the running-boards the steel Yamaha rivets were loose after 2 seasons of riding( my sled). As soon as you have flex dissimilar metals will loosen and corrode. If you use stainless it will be the Aluminum that gets corroded away. Cheery also have the cherry ball rivets, they are all aluminum but have a much lower sheer strength so you need to use way more rivets.
If you use solids they look better and are stronger . make sure to use the soft ones cause your tunnel is soft aluminum( not hardened aircraft aluminum) they are easier to use and harden when you hammer them.
they should stick out 1.5 times the diameter and when you hammer them should end up wit a head diameter about 1.5 times the original rivet diameter. Make sure the al- sheets are tight together. It is easy and fun when you get the hang of it . If you dont want to hammer there is a pop style rivet called avdel , they make sealed rivets . you will have to use about twice as manny and I use PRC sealant ( a flexible bonding agend) and than rivet it with verry good results.
There are different ways to get good results.

 

[tundra]

i agree, standard pop rivet will loosen really fast, since they only expand and they do not compress .

http://www.avdel.textron.com/index.htm