morrisond
Expert
As everyone gets use to these new sleds they are finding that they are much more prone to dart when you let off the gas or slow down for a corner. A lot of people are spending a lot of money on different carbides or ski's when in fact it is more of a set up issue.
What people may not be used to is that with the new rider forward Ergo's there is lot more weight transfer to the front under decel. This has to be compensated for in set-up. Make sure your ski's have proper toe out, but before going to buy new ski's simply turn up (increase compression ) on the clickers on a GT or tighten the springs(reduce length) on the ER or Attak. This will make the front stiffer and a lot less prone to dive and dart under decel.
My first high speed ride on the GT this year showed the darting problem. A few quick turns on the compression clickers and the problem was 95% solved. I'll wind the springs up a little more and the problem should be gone(didn't have time).
Just my 2 cents.
Rev's had the same issue.
What people may not be used to is that with the new rider forward Ergo's there is lot more weight transfer to the front under decel. This has to be compensated for in set-up. Make sure your ski's have proper toe out, but before going to buy new ski's simply turn up (increase compression ) on the clickers on a GT or tighten the springs(reduce length) on the ER or Attak. This will make the front stiffer and a lot less prone to dive and dart under decel.
My first high speed ride on the GT this year showed the darting problem. A few quick turns on the compression clickers and the problem was 95% solved. I'll wind the springs up a little more and the problem should be gone(didn't have time).
Just my 2 cents.
Rev's had the same issue.
KubotaOne
Extreme
It was my understanding that the only way to decrease ski pressure while cruising or decelerating was to adjust the limiter straps? I'm far from an expert, if it worked for you than that's all that matters. I had darting with my Attak, I shimmed and went to 6" dually's. 
morrisond
Expert
Letting out the limiter straps may actually make it worse as you are making the pivot more extreme, you have to decrease weight transfer to the front, stiffening the front will help. I would guess that actually pulling the straps in will help more as it will preload the front(compress the shocks springs) reducicing darting
dirkdiggler
Suspended
It may be darting becasue the front end is light. Pulling up the straps gives you ski pressure and usually helps the sled to rail
KubotaOne
Extreme
morrisond said:
Just to be clear, I never said which way to adjust the straps. My comment was simple - there is no way to adjust ski pressure other than thru the straps. I don't undertand how front spring tension has anything to do with ski pressure.
Darting
Darting is usually caused by too much skidframe front arm pressure and too long limiter strap setting. This will be aggravated by rider forward positioning. When the sled is under power, the sled rides predominately on the track under the front arm and behaves like it has a very short track. This allows any rut or uneven path to easily change the sleds direction. Things get worse when decelerating and the rear of the track is lifted of the ground as the ski suspension compresses and the sled pivots forward on the front arm. The rear of the sled will try and pass the front. It can feel that cranking up the ski spring preload is helping but it does tend to cause the inside ski to lift on corners. This makes the sled feel tippy and really hurts gas mileage. Since the new suspension has only 1 rear shock and spring the adjustments will be different but the principles the same.
Darting is usually caused by too much skidframe front arm pressure and too long limiter strap setting. This will be aggravated by rider forward positioning. When the sled is under power, the sled rides predominately on the track under the front arm and behaves like it has a very short track. This allows any rut or uneven path to easily change the sleds direction. Things get worse when decelerating and the rear of the track is lifted of the ground as the ski suspension compresses and the sled pivots forward on the front arm. The rear of the sled will try and pass the front. It can feel that cranking up the ski spring preload is helping but it does tend to cause the inside ski to lift on corners. This makes the sled feel tippy and really hurts gas mileage. Since the new suspension has only 1 rear shock and spring the adjustments will be different but the principles the same.
roady
Newbie
dirkdiggler said:
Your kidding right?
morrisond
Expert
roady said:
Worked great on the Firecat which was very sensitive to chasis adjustments
morrisond
Expert
KubotaOne said:
Sorry. It's not really that you need to adjust ski pressure it's reducing the sudden shift of weight which is important
morrisond
Expert
Re: Darting
True about the ski lift. I would guess the best solution will be to pull in the straps and try that. Worked nice on my Rev 800X last year and '03 Firecat sno-pro
low flying missile said:
True about the ski lift. I would guess the best solution will be to pull in the straps and try that. Worked nice on my Rev 800X last year and '03 Firecat sno-pro
King44
Extreme
- Joined
- Oct 30, 2005
- Messages
- 106
Before you do anything, check your toe-out first, then make suspension changes if needed. You might be suprised that's all it needs!! Good luck !!
Rash
Expert
anybody out there tried the toe-in and adjustments and can't rid of the darting??
RASH
RASH
Darting
Morrisound, there is another adjustment in addition to the limiter straps. You should be able to adjust the coupling of the front and rear arms to reduce the transfer of weight forward to the skis under trailing throttle or braking. On the old Proaction you could reduce the control rod gap at the bottom of the rod. I don't know if this still applies as I'm not very familiar with the new suspension. In simple terms, a snowmobile should want to go in a straight line. The foot print of the track is so much larger than the skis its a wonder they turn at all. In the old days with bogey wheels sleds went down the trail straight and the skis were so out of line most machines looked pigeon toed. As horsepower and travel increased handling and hookup problems developed. Thats why suspensions have been developed with front torque armsand limiter straps, rear arms with collapsible rear scissors and coupling. Playing with these dynamic adjustments will have a much greater effect on handling than spring preload. It has also been my experience that alignment has to be way out to have a profound effect. Finally, no matter what you do, in some conditions even the best setup machine will dart. I just hope that mine darts a little less than my buddies.
Morrisound, there is another adjustment in addition to the limiter straps. You should be able to adjust the coupling of the front and rear arms to reduce the transfer of weight forward to the skis under trailing throttle or braking. On the old Proaction you could reduce the control rod gap at the bottom of the rod. I don't know if this still applies as I'm not very familiar with the new suspension. In simple terms, a snowmobile should want to go in a straight line. The foot print of the track is so much larger than the skis its a wonder they turn at all. In the old days with bogey wheels sleds went down the trail straight and the skis were so out of line most machines looked pigeon toed. As horsepower and travel increased handling and hookup problems developed. Thats why suspensions have been developed with front torque armsand limiter straps, rear arms with collapsible rear scissors and coupling. Playing with these dynamic adjustments will have a much greater effect on handling than spring preload. It has also been my experience that alignment has to be way out to have a profound effect. Finally, no matter what you do, in some conditions even the best setup machine will dart. I just hope that mine darts a little less than my buddies.
vmaxjohn
Pro
Wow guys...you may be missing a simpler solution...It's getting to be an old say, but check out my tech article in the Tech section on darting...True for ANY sled with skis.
It's kinda soon to have much wear on the bars, but if it's FRONT HEAVY at all, meaning the front of the carbides wear more heavily than the rear of the turning carbide, then you need to shim the ski bumper to even it out.
Get this just right, and you can use your suspension adjustments for changing how the sled rides, like it's supposed to be!
Good luck! Wish I had a new one
It's kinda soon to have much wear on the bars, but if it's FRONT HEAVY at all, meaning the front of the carbides wear more heavily than the rear of the turning carbide, then you need to shim the ski bumper to even it out.
Get this just right, and you can use your suspension adjustments for changing how the sled rides, like it's supposed to be!
Good luck! Wish I had a new one
