mikeb
Expert
Is there a procedure of guide to adjusting the pro-action on my 04 warrior
SnoWarrior
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suspension Warrior
Had mine dialed in pretty good, then bought a ZX2. Here is some info from the site.
After tinkering with my Warrior I have it setup to near perfect for my weight (175lb without gear). It handles rough trail and corners very well.
First if you still have the stock carbides on the skis replace them with a 6" carbide.
Here is how I set mine.
REAR SHOCK
1). Set transfer rod adjuster nut to stock position.
2). Sit on sled with gear or some sort of weight to simulate the gear.
3). While on sled lean over and check transfer rod top/bottom spacing.
4). Spacing should be 60/40 to 50/50, if not adjust rear spring preload to obtain that spacing.
5), Set rear clicker to about number 5 from soft, increase if the rear bottoms too easily.
CENTER SHOCK
1). Verify stock spring preload as per owners manual.
2). Stock limiter strap setting is 15mm, measured from base of nut to tip of threaded adjuster. Increase to 20mm to slightly pull up limiter strap.
FRONT SHOCKS
1). Raise the front of sled with a floorjack or blocks so skis are off the ground.
2). Loosen springs to zero preload, then retighten for 5mm preload. I had zero preload initially but 5mm gives a little more bite in the corners for me.
Also if you do a search in the suspension section for warrior, you will find more.
Some more..
Your limiter strap will limit how much track is on the
ground and will affect the ski pressure and transfer.
Sucking the limiter straps up will put more pressure
on the skis and transfer less. Letting the limiter
straps out will put less pressure on the skis and
transfer more. Now the control rods, if you make a
larger gap you will have more transfer and less weight
on the skis under acceleration. If you make the gap
smaller you will have less transfer and more weight
on the skis under acceleration. Hope this helps.
If you are looking for best handling... set it to least
amount of transfer...
If you want best drag racing setup, set them to full
transfer..
The top line on the rod is for the most transfer and the
bottom line is for the least transfer.
I expect that you know how to adjust the transfer rods, but in case you don't (or someone else reads this thread) - the transfer rods are those rods running between the two sets of BIG WHEELS. To increase transfer (reduce ski pressure), move the two BIG NUTS up/forward. To reduce transfer (increase ski pressure), move them down/back. There are two #22 wrenches in the tool kit for this purpose. Don't overtighten - those wrenches are CRAPPY and have a tendency to bend.
Keep one thing in mind when making adjustments to increase ski lift - it WILL have an adverse affect on trail manners. A good way to adjust is by following this procedure;
- set transfer to MINIMUM, then tighten/loosen the straps until the ski pressure is as much as you think you will need on the trail. Then use the transfer rods to quickly adjust between lake and trail. You can add hand-adjust nuts for easy adjust, and aftermarket rods to increase maximum transfer. Alternative to this is the reverse procedure (ie, lake racing is more important), then you set transfer to MAXIMUM, and set your ideal maximum transfer, then use rods to make it better for the trails. Either way its a compromise.
Just make small adjustments at a time and keep track of what you did, and where you started, then test it out.
Jerry
Had mine dialed in pretty good, then bought a ZX2. Here is some info from the site.
After tinkering with my Warrior I have it setup to near perfect for my weight (175lb without gear). It handles rough trail and corners very well.
First if you still have the stock carbides on the skis replace them with a 6" carbide.
Here is how I set mine.
REAR SHOCK
1). Set transfer rod adjuster nut to stock position.
2). Sit on sled with gear or some sort of weight to simulate the gear.
3). While on sled lean over and check transfer rod top/bottom spacing.
4). Spacing should be 60/40 to 50/50, if not adjust rear spring preload to obtain that spacing.
5), Set rear clicker to about number 5 from soft, increase if the rear bottoms too easily.
CENTER SHOCK
1). Verify stock spring preload as per owners manual.
2). Stock limiter strap setting is 15mm, measured from base of nut to tip of threaded adjuster. Increase to 20mm to slightly pull up limiter strap.
FRONT SHOCKS
1). Raise the front of sled with a floorjack or blocks so skis are off the ground.
2). Loosen springs to zero preload, then retighten for 5mm preload. I had zero preload initially but 5mm gives a little more bite in the corners for me.
Also if you do a search in the suspension section for warrior, you will find more.
Some more..
Your limiter strap will limit how much track is on the
ground and will affect the ski pressure and transfer.
Sucking the limiter straps up will put more pressure
on the skis and transfer less. Letting the limiter
straps out will put less pressure on the skis and
transfer more. Now the control rods, if you make a
larger gap you will have more transfer and less weight
on the skis under acceleration. If you make the gap
smaller you will have less transfer and more weight
on the skis under acceleration. Hope this helps.
If you are looking for best handling... set it to least
amount of transfer...
If you want best drag racing setup, set them to full
transfer..
The top line on the rod is for the most transfer and the
bottom line is for the least transfer.
I expect that you know how to adjust the transfer rods, but in case you don't (or someone else reads this thread) - the transfer rods are those rods running between the two sets of BIG WHEELS. To increase transfer (reduce ski pressure), move the two BIG NUTS up/forward. To reduce transfer (increase ski pressure), move them down/back. There are two #22 wrenches in the tool kit for this purpose. Don't overtighten - those wrenches are CRAPPY and have a tendency to bend.
Keep one thing in mind when making adjustments to increase ski lift - it WILL have an adverse affect on trail manners. A good way to adjust is by following this procedure;
- set transfer to MINIMUM, then tighten/loosen the straps until the ski pressure is as much as you think you will need on the trail. Then use the transfer rods to quickly adjust between lake and trail. You can add hand-adjust nuts for easy adjust, and aftermarket rods to increase maximum transfer. Alternative to this is the reverse procedure (ie, lake racing is more important), then you set transfer to MAXIMUM, and set your ideal maximum transfer, then use rods to make it better for the trails. Either way its a compromise.
Just make small adjustments at a time and keep track of what you did, and where you started, then test it out.
Jerry
not really sure what weight transfer is all about?
vtdownhiller
Extreme
Wow Jerry, That was a great post that was very helpfull...Thanx!
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
Once you get dialed in as explained above, one thing I found is if you use two scales under the the skis, you can equalize the weight on the skis by adjusting the springs. You want to have equal ski pressure. This helps to greatly reduce darting and erratic handling in certain trail conditions.
RobWarrior
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Len
That's a good point you make about using scales to balance the front end....I have Fox Floats and set them to 50psi with the front end in the air, when I set it down and checked it there was a 3-5 psi difference...I now make my adjustments on the garage floor, kind of the same idea.
That's a good point you make about using scales to balance the front end....I have Fox Floats and set them to 50psi with the front end in the air, when I set it down and checked it there was a 3-5 psi difference...I now make my adjustments on the garage floor, kind of the same idea.
