Quick question on the pto side drive bearing.Can i remove it without taking skid out and drivers. Looks like it comes out from outside of speedometer side. Do i just have to loosen track to get some play in drivers to push it out.Thanks for any info.
kviper
VIP Member
Yes you can if it is not tight on the shaft, You just need to take the Torx set screw's all the way out so it will clear to slide out. kviper
LJ 452
TY 4 Stroke God
Depending on how small you, and your hands are you may be able to remove it without removing the skid. Personally every time I try to do anything with out removing the skid, I end up wasting more time messing around then I would have just removing it. Besides it gives you an oppertunity to look the skid over. Sometimes this is not such a good thing, but ultimately the right thing. There are two, count them 2 torq, or star shaped set screws on the inside flange of the bearing. You will have to rotate the driveshaft to get to both. I would just remove both screws completely as to avoid not removing them enough. If your lucky your bearing will slide off the shaft with little effort. I think I used a large screwdriver against the drivers to lightly persuade it off. If you are not so lucky, well time for some creative thinking. Just remember there are bearings and seals on the other side of the shaft in the chaincase that you do not want to damage, so take it easy. You don't want to pound on the bearing. I beleive there is a how to for this in the tech section, it's basically the same for all the late model sleds. Even the Vipers use the same style bearing and holder.
Thanks for the info. I do plan on taking the skid out ,but I'm glad to here i dont have to remove drivers.
I removed the skid when i did my bearing just a lot easier to work on things .
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
I've never removed the skid to do this bearing and I've changed about 10 of them on these sleds.
- Loosen the track off all the way
- Remove set screws from the bearing (they have to be removed so it will slide through the bearing retainer in the chassis)
- Pull the upper and lower side panel, secondary clutch, belt, speedo "gear", and the nuts holding the bearing retainer to the chassis
- Place the new bearing somewhere within reach, ready to install
- While holding the drive shaft in position, slip off the old bearing and slip on the new one
- Bolt everything back together and adjust and align track tension.
It is only about a 15 minute job and that isn't even working hard.
I still recommend removing the skid at least once per season and before any big trips to check bearings/bushings/pivot arms & rails for cracks/etc., but this bearing is so simple to change you don't need to do the skid at the same time as the bearing.
One tip, if the bearing is seized to the shaft, don't pry too hard against the drive sprocket. The sprocket can easily be pushed in and this makes for a huge job to repair (have to pull the track). Instead use penetrating oil and just keep working at the bearing. Worse comes to worse, take a small hack saw and spend an hour cutting through the bearing (small sawzall blade and sawzall works great also).
When I install the new bearing I usually coat the shaft with anti-seize compound. This ensures that the next change is a simple task.
- Loosen the track off all the way
- Remove set screws from the bearing (they have to be removed so it will slide through the bearing retainer in the chassis)
- Pull the upper and lower side panel, secondary clutch, belt, speedo "gear", and the nuts holding the bearing retainer to the chassis
- Place the new bearing somewhere within reach, ready to install
- While holding the drive shaft in position, slip off the old bearing and slip on the new one
- Bolt everything back together and adjust and align track tension.
It is only about a 15 minute job and that isn't even working hard.
I still recommend removing the skid at least once per season and before any big trips to check bearings/bushings/pivot arms & rails for cracks/etc., but this bearing is so simple to change you don't need to do the skid at the same time as the bearing.
One tip, if the bearing is seized to the shaft, don't pry too hard against the drive sprocket. The sprocket can easily be pushed in and this makes for a huge job to repair (have to pull the track). Instead use penetrating oil and just keep working at the bearing. Worse comes to worse, take a small hack saw and spend an hour cutting through the bearing (small sawzall blade and sawzall works great also).
When I install the new bearing I usually coat the shaft with anti-seize compound. This ensures that the next change is a simple task.
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