I pulled the skid today. The rear link looks good. I didn't inspect the front shaft closely, but it looked alright. I will check better when I go back out there.
I am stuck now on the track tensioner brackets (replacing my skid rails). I don't have and can't find a tool for the solid rivets that hold them on. I went to home depot and called some auto parts stores, but they didn't have one. I called my dealer and their service techs had already left. So I couldn't go there to put have them pressed in. I am going to have to call around to some specialty tool stores. And they are probably closed now and won't be open till Monday.
I am stuck now on the track tensioner brackets (replacing my skid rails). I don't have and can't find a tool for the solid rivets that hold them on. I went to home depot and called some auto parts stores, but they didn't have one. I called my dealer and their service techs had already left. So I couldn't go there to put have them pressed in. I am going to have to call around to some specialty tool stores. And they are probably closed now and won't be open till Monday.
teerex
Expert
I had to remove my rivets because of the rail extension. I drilled and grinded for an hour, but finally I got them out. The brackets are now bolted to the rail extension.
teerex said:
I might end up doing that. Do you remember the sizes of nuts and bolts that you used?
teerex
Expert
the bolts came with the Tracks USA extension kit, about 6 mm.
maddogjeff
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Having pulled many a skid, here's my 2 cents. The hardest part is putting it back in especially if you're doing yourself. Lifts, come alongs, and power tools are great helps.
1. Loosen rear axle and back track tension bolts all the way in towards skid.
2. Use air driver or high speed high torque drill to remove front tunnel bolts. If you don't have either and the bolts are LockTighted down you have to start one side, retighten it and then start the other side to break the LockTight, then work them both out. The rear tunnel bolts, you're able to grab the bar inside the tunnel to keep it from spinning.
3. Yank 'er out of the track.
The problems with putting her back in is getting the wheels over the track nubs and lining it up with the bolt holes. If I'm doing by myself I like to remove the rear axle and wheels altogether, skid practically slips right in but a bit of a pain to put the rear axle and wheels back on but less painful then struggling with skid. And if I'm going to do this, I would do it in step one above.
I've always used lifts and come alongs, never did it with it on it's side. So I've used straps to hold the track up pulling the skid out and putting it back in. With the rear lifted up with a come along, it's real easy to use a lift under the front of the track to get the bolt holes lined up.
Once it's all back in, you'll need to align the track. With the rear axle loosened and track off the ground, start 'er up and run the track around. Most people just eyeball the distance from the outside of the hyfax to a track nub on both sides but I like to measure it. Adjust track tension nut. Repeat till it's even on both sides. And remember to tighten up that rear axle when you're done.
Good luck.
1. Loosen rear axle and back track tension bolts all the way in towards skid.
2. Use air driver or high speed high torque drill to remove front tunnel bolts. If you don't have either and the bolts are LockTighted down you have to start one side, retighten it and then start the other side to break the LockTight, then work them both out. The rear tunnel bolts, you're able to grab the bar inside the tunnel to keep it from spinning.
3. Yank 'er out of the track.
The problems with putting her back in is getting the wheels over the track nubs and lining it up with the bolt holes. If I'm doing by myself I like to remove the rear axle and wheels altogether, skid practically slips right in but a bit of a pain to put the rear axle and wheels back on but less painful then struggling with skid. And if I'm going to do this, I would do it in step one above.
I've always used lifts and come alongs, never did it with it on it's side. So I've used straps to hold the track up pulling the skid out and putting it back in. With the rear lifted up with a come along, it's real easy to use a lift under the front of the track to get the bolt holes lined up.
Once it's all back in, you'll need to align the track. With the rear axle loosened and track off the ground, start 'er up and run the track around. Most people just eyeball the distance from the outside of the hyfax to a track nub on both sides but I like to measure it. Adjust track tension nut. Repeat till it's even on both sides. And remember to tighten up that rear axle when you're done.
Good luck.
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