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Racewerx Quick Adjust Coupler Block

stormin norman

Extreme
Joined
Dec 11, 2007
Messages
103
Age
58
Location
Southern, MN
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2014 Yamaha Viper LTX LE
2000 Yamaha SRX 700
1999 Yamaha V max 500
1992 Yamaha V max 4
1984 Yamaha Phazer
Has anyone here tried the Racewerx Quick Adjust Coupler Block? Does it help/work ? Seems kinda expensive in the Yamaha accessory catalog. Anyone have a used one they would sell ? thanks
 

Has anyone removed the stock blocks ?
 
Has anyone removed the stock blocks ?
I have mine out. Have had for about 1000 km. I was trying to get my LTX to wheelie like my Nytro would, but to no avail. I wonder if the slide action keeps it from catwalking? Still love the sled.
 
Has anyone here tried the Racewerx Quick Adjust Coupler Block? Does it help/work ? Seems kinda expensive in the Yamaha accessory catalog. Anyone have a used one they would sell ? thanks

I’ve commented on this many times in previous posts.
It’s a excellent product and really makes the procross chassis shine in a variety of snow conditions. I put about 5k on the one I had and only had I issue. The inner detent rod wore out and all I did was call racewerx and he sent my out replacement parts.
Position 1-2 are for very little coupling which allows you to stay on top of the fluff. Position 3-5 are like the stock position and position 6 gives you extra coupling to really keep the skis glued to the trail. It’s really worth the money.
Comes standard on cats xc r model.
With my experience, I’m still mystified procross owners still overlook this adjuster.
In the morning when the trails were groomed and extremely hard I would crank it up to slot car the trails, and when trails loosened up during the day I would start dialing it back to create more transfer in the fluff.
All with simple 1/4 turns at a time.
 
Responding to an older thread on this. I picked up one of these coupler blocks and was going to install it. Do you know how tight the set screw should be? The instructions said to put lithium grease on the shaft. I did that and think I put the set screw back in as far as it was. It seems easy to turn by hand, even without it installed. You can feel it clicking into the slot on the shaft...I didn't want to over tighten it but don't want it to spin on its own either.
 
Its a fine line. You can adjust the tension on the ball, if need be. Wait till you try to install it and it spins while trying to tighten the bolts. Almost a 2 man job, one to hold sled on the blocks, another to tighten the bolts. But you are right, once set, it works great.
 
I have just installed mine. The instructions say #1 and #2 for more weight transfer. Don't you think #6 would allow more transfer or am I confused ?
 
The least amount of material on the block is more transfer. The more material facing the front by arm is less transfer.
 
Its a fine line. You can adjust the tension on the ball, if need be. Wait till you try to install it and it spins while trying to tighten the bolts. Almost a 2 man job, one to hold sled on the blocks, another to tighten the bolts. But you are right, once set, it works great.

Thanks. Got it installed. It was clear it needed a touch more tension once it was on. Looking forward to trying it out.
 


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